Thread: first 390 build

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Originally Posted by DennyW

The Crane 296-2 will put you right in where you said...Also, remember, an easy way to increase the rear end ratio, is to put on smaller tires. Example, if you are running 16 ", you put on 15" or 14".

I'm getting 15x10 295/60 rear 15x8 295/50 in front
And how will this cam perform with in town driving? and will I be able to smoke the tires from a sit still for a little fun?

Oh and will I be able to use this cam with stock rocker shafts?

Riley, I'll leave the engine specifics to the others but I'm surprised that no one's mentioned oil choice and your flat tappet cam break in process. You need to run a good racing oil that has zinc/phosphorus (ZDDP) in the 1200 to 1400ppm range to protect high point load surfaces from galling, and you need to follow the cam suppliers recommendations exactly, generally being sure that the engine is ready to fire, light it off and run it at 2000 to 2500 rpm for twenty to twenty five minutes. This establishes the wear pattern that spins the lifters in their bores, and is critical to keeping the lobes from eroding. There are some who say that once broken in you're safe to run regular, over the counter oils, but they have ZDDP levels that are significantly lower, and IMO you'll be at risk.

Also IMO don't fall for the over the counter ZDDP additives. You can get too much zinc/phosphorus in your oil, and that can cause problems that are as bad or worse when excess heavy metal deposits on bearing surfaces, and then galls wear surfaces as it reduces clearances. Buy a good quality racing oil, like Brad Penn's, Joe Gibbs, or even Valvoline's VR1. Just my $0.02 - here's just one of many discussions Death by Oil? - Old Cars Weekly

Ok thanks for the heads up, ill make sure to get the oil I need and to brake the cam in right
And someone had told me once I brake In my engine they said I should run rotella deisel oil? Is there anything to that?

Originally Posted by riley1996

Oh and will I be able to use this cam with stock rocker shafts?

Riley, I think you need to discuss this question with your engine builder. Since if it does fail you'll be expecting him to warranty it (them?)
I'm not trying to be snotty, just practical. Asking a question in an open internet forum leaves you with many opinions - some could be / would be questionable, from folks with no vested interest.

Originally Posted by riley1996

Ok thanks for the heads up, ill make sure to get the oil I need and to brake the cam in right
And someone had told me once I brake In my engine they said I should run rotella deisel oil? Is there anything to that?

Rotella diesel oil is not a good idea. A few years ago it did still have higher ZDDP levels, but it's formulated to reduce sludging specific to diesels. Oils are made for specific applications, and just like you don't run regular in the diesel, you don't want diesel in your high performance engine. Run a good race oil, even after break in, IMO.

he told me to go with a 275deh, works with stock stall converter and relatively tall gear and the lift is 514/541, I looked around online and some people say the stock rocker shafts is questionable with over 540 lift (with) shorter pushrods, that might be why he didn't want me goin with to much lift but I see your point though ill make sure bring up the question with him, I'm kina excited but how do yall think this engine is gonna run? I'm pretty stoked about it, and thanks for all of your guys advice I learnt a few things I really appreciate it

Originally Posted by DennyW

Just a note, I've used Havoline oil for older engines since day one in mine, and 28,000 miles later, still fine. It is designed for the way it used to be for additives. That's just what I use though. Check things out before you decide...Research oils...

Thaks for the tip, I will look into it

I called up Henson and they said to use royal purple break in for first 50 miles then then switch to royal purple synthetic straight weight

Originally Posted by DennyW

Just a note, I've used Havoline oil for older engines since day one in mine, and 28,000 miles later, still fine. It is designed for the way it used to be for additives. That's just what I use though. Check things out before you decide...Research oils...

Denny, not to argue with your success but Havoline reformulated their oils along with everyone else when the OEM's started crying about contamination of catalytic converters. There are some oil chemists who say that once you've got the engine broken in properly you are safe to run the current OTC oils with reduced ZDDP, which your experience supports. There are other oil chemists, along with pro engine builders, who say that running the reduced ZDDP oil is simply delaying the failure, and that at some point in time that engine will lose a lobe, and then generally more follow as the abrasive grit circulates and stops other lifters from rotating. For me the right answer is roller lifters and eliminate the worry, but where that's not possible it's running quality racing oil to eliminate doubt. My opinion based on a lot of research and study, and everyone's entitled to theirs, too.

BTW, my old '60 Chevy 348 liked straight weight Havoline back in the day. Anything else the lifters "ticked" at idle, but it was quiet with Havoline. Used it for many years.

Originally Posted by riley1996

Hi I'm riley I'm new and I'm just needing some expert advice on my 390 build so thanks for your time and here's what I got

390 bored .30
650cfm carb
4 hole spacer
Probe pistons 1.765 4cc
D2teaa heads milled 65cc 2.09/1.66
275deh cam @.50 213/232. 275/285 514/541 110lsa
.020 gasket
Stroke 3.78
Rod length 6.486
Deck clearence .029
11:19.1 compression
Full length big tube headers
2.5 duel exhaust flowmaster 40s
C6 stock stall
3.25 gears

Cylinder pressure will be high (short cam with 11.19:1 SCR), so make provision for a strong ignition system. Begin budgeting for a higher stall converter. You want to light 'em up at will and I think you'll need a looser converter to do it. I predict that you'll grow weary of paying for 110 pretty quickly. The motor will want more carburetor and a good high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold for max power. Use an Edelbrock Performer RPM part number 7105, 71053 or 71054 and 750 vacuum secondaries carb. Use a 14" x 4" air filter system so the motor can breathe.

Please read through this tutorial to learn about making a flat tappet cam work in today's world....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Cylinder pressure will be high (short cam with 11.19:1 SCR), so make provision for a strong ignition system. Begin budgeting for a higher stall converter. You want to light 'em up at will and I think you'll need a looser converter to do it. I predict that you'll grow weary of paying for 110 pretty quickly. The motor will want more carburetor and a good high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold for max power. Use an Edelbrock Performer RPM part number 7105, 71053 or 71054 and 750 vacuum secondaries carb. Use a 14" x 4" air filter system so the motor can breathe.

Please read through this tutorial to learn about making a flat tappet cam work in today's world....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

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i plan on buying a Fe engine book, to learn more, and the truck will only be a weekend worrier so the gas wont be a problem, so my checklist is
750 car
High amp Msd ignition,
Perforermer rpm intake
And a 4 inch air cleaner
And a higher stall converter

What kina stall should I get?
And i got a k&n 3 inch air cleaner already on hand would that work ok?

I might just have Henson brake my engine in for me to make sure it will survive just to be on the safe side

Well here goes-------shorter pushrods?????? The fe rocker shafts are in the correct place for stock length valve stems so the geometry is correct unless you have a very high lift cam and/or different length valve stems.I didn't catch it whether this is hyd or solid lifters? If hydraulic you will need to be within a certain range on lifter plunger travel so pushrod/ tappet length becomes critical choices.Sometimes just the use of lash caps will keep you in the needed operating range.

FE oiling system---kind of unique system with some charertists? that you won't see anywhere else----front sump/oil pump(issues with hard leaving wheel standing drag launches) oil pressure bypass valve is at rear of main galley insuring that whole system sees desired pressure(relief valve in pump mainly for cold startup to protect blowing oil filter) lifter galley(after they came out with hydraulics late 1958) fed from two restricted passages between sides near end of main galley.Upper rocker shaft ass fed from #2 and #4 cam bearing bore up to a sideways passage ( uggg) to rocker stand around bolt --oil was directed back toward lifter areas by drain/splash shields that had drip channels to direct oil return to oil tappet tops/lower pushrod ends. System was prone to sludge buildup in the little sideways passage between block/head if oil/filter wasn't changed often--------remember that in late 50s oil was non detergent and sludging was common------

Originally Posted by riley1996

What kina stall should I get?

Converter manufacturers will generally recommend 500 rpm's over the low operating range of the cam. Comp says that your 275DEH cam will make power beginning at 2000, so a 2500 rpm stall converter would be the ticket. I recommend a 10" diameter unit rather than one of those fosdick 12" units with the fins bent over. Not only will a looser converter get the motor "up on the cam" quicker, but it will also prevent you having to lean on the brakes to prevent the truck trying to pull through intersections at red lights due to a higher idle over a stock cam.

Originally Posted by riley1996

And i got a k&n 3 inch air cleaner already on hand would that work ok?

That's gonna be a little slack according to K&N, depending on RPM's. They say you have to deduct 3/4" from the height of the filter to account for the glue that bonds the element to the rubber seals at the top and bottom of the filter, (3/8" at the bottom of the element and 3/8" at the top of the element), so you EFFECTIVELY have a 2 1/4" tall filter element. Assuming a 14" diameter, multiply 14 times 3.14159 and find a circumference of 43.98 square inches. Multiply that by the effective 2.25" height of the element and find 98.95 square inches of effective filter area.

Your motor will be 396 cubic inches (395.36 rounded up due to cylinder wear ). To figure the effective filter area needed, multiply cubic inches times RPM and divide by the constant 20839.... 396 X 5205 / 20839 = 98.91, so your filter will cover the formula up through 5,205 RPM's. At RPM's above that, you would theoretically need more effective filter area. I know this is nit-picking, but I'm trying to teach you something here.

Install an X or H pipe immediately after the collectors and run the exhaust to the rear bumper through mufflers of your choice. Nothing sounds more amateurish and "ricky-racer" than pipes terminated under the truck and reverberating the sheet metal.

As far as selecting the correct pushrod length, Scott Foxwell presents the best tutorial I have ever seen....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU

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