Thread: first 390 build

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Tech
that video link is completely irrelavant to the way the FE engines valve train works. Its a big block chev with stud mounted rockers where the pivot point is adjustable vs being fixed shaft as on the Ford

Ok thanks tech I appreciate the advice I already went to the parts house and bought a 14x4 inch k&n air cleaner, and I already bought a 2500 Hughes stall converter, i will just have to make up the 400$ for my budget but you sound like you have worked around engines for a while and know alot about what your doin so, ill follow your advice on this stuff,

So when this is done it aught to be a pretty bada** street truck?

Originally Posted by riley1996

So when this is done it aught to be a pretty bada** street truck?

Hurry up and get'er done.... then let us know how it came out.

No-its going to be a turd-

a stock 460 out of a lincoln with stock attached C6 trans will kick your ass and on 93 octane gas

Man sounded pretty rude

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

No-its going to be a turd-

a stock 460 out of a lincoln with stock attached C6 trans will kick your ass and on 93 octane gas

I didn't come here to be ridiculed, I came here to share my build that was politely put together by one of the finest machine shops around

Originally Posted by riley1996

So when this is done it aught to be a pretty bada** street truck?

That would be my best guess.

.

I just wanted to know what everyone thought and if I would be happy with it, If something Is off I would like to know how to critique it to make it better

A lot of us don't want to hazard a guess.. even an educated one.
Some really good folks on here gave you the benefit of there experience and knowledge. You seem bright enough to gather the info and filter out the chaff.

Continue to work with your engine builder and follow his recommendations, I think your to high on the compression... and I would've used a cam with less lift.
In it's place I'd go for more stroke, use a 428 crank and make a 410 CID.. keep compression round 9 to 1.

But that is just me. And you need to please yourself, not me! It sounds like your deep into this project and that is always cool! Keep at it.. and maybe share a couple pics along the way. Like I said in the beginning of your thread. It's nice to see you here!

motor too small
carb not big enough
rear gears need to be 3.90 or 4.10

If you want the truck to even beat a lawn mower you need more cubic inches, more carb/intake system, and rear gears around 4 to 1 ( 3.73 would be the tallest and probably 411 for local driving) to go on the road trips a 3.55 would work decent --

Originally Posted by 34_40

A lot of us don't want to hazard a guess.. even an educated one.
Some really good folks on here gave you the benefit of there experience and knowledge. You seem bright enough to gather the info and filter out the chaff.

Continue to work with your engine builder and follow his recommendations, I think your to high on the compression... and I would've used a cam with less lift.
In it's place I'd go for more stroke, use a 428 crank and make a 410 CID.. keep compression round 9 to 1.

But that is just me. And you need to please yourself, not me! It sounds like your deep into this project and that is always cool! Keep at it.. and maybe share a couple pics along the way. Like I said in the beginning of your thread. It's nice to see you here!

thanks man I have learned alot just from today!, I will talk with my builder about the compression and cam, I feel pretty confident about my build, I guess he didn't mention stroking due to my low budget, and i respect and understand no one wants to make a guess how it will run,cause if I build it and totally be different, but I really appreciate your input,

Since you have the heads reworked already and are so high on the compression, you could look at replacing the rotating assembly with maybe a 4.25 stroke crank with BBC 2.200 rod journals and h beam rods for more cubes and lower cr.

With a truck being heavy you really don't want to run a loose converter as you will just be creating heat cooking the trans and maybe the engine also because of heat transfer in the radiator. I would also run an aux oil cooler on the engine. Stay away from pusher fans mounted in front of the radiator because all they really do is block airflow to the rad.
Does the truck still have fuel tank behind the seat? you might want to think about using an aux tank in your fuel system so you can switch back and forth with fuel grades. Get an KN extreme top plate for your air cleaner and a 800 or 850 holley carb(or 950 with vacume sec

Originally Posted by DennyW

I know, if that doesn't work out, you could always install a crate 350 Chevy engine in it...

Haha I'm good on that one I don't believe inter changing make and model engines

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Since you have the heads reworked already and are so high on the compression, you could look at replacing the rotating assembly with maybe a 4.25 stroke crank with BBC 2.200 rod journals and h beam rods for more cubes and lower cr.

With a truck being heavy you really don't want to run a loose converter as you will just be creating heat cooking the trans and maybe the engine also because of heat transfer in the radiator. I would also run an aux oil cooler on the engine. Stay away from pusher fans mounted in front of the radiator because all they really do is block airflow to the rad.
Does the truck still have fuel tank behind the seat? you might want to think about using an aux tank in your fuel system so you can switch back and forth with fuel grades. Get an KN extreme top plate for your air cleaner and a 800 or 850 holley carb(or 950 with vacume sec

Tech already informed me,
I got a 2500 stall
4 inch kn air cleaner
800-850 carb
And I can't really afford a stroker crank, that's why my engine builder didn't mention it all this will cost me around 2800$, 300 over budget for stall converter and air cleaner