Thread: Newly rebuilt fe390 still smoking after intake redo. Leak Down Test? Wrong pcv valve

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Sorry had to run into town. Here is what I used. Comp Cams Valve train assembly spray, Sta-Lube Extreme pressure Anti-seize engine assembly lube and I used Castrol GTX 10W 30 motor oil. a Ford service tech/manager for many years told me to use that. It's been changed twice already.

I thought Bon Ami was a type of cleanser like Comet. I'm listening to your idea.

Bon Ami isn't abrasive----------the old adds used to towt "never a scratch"

Any way-BA has over the years been used on varius lapping in opts-----you sprinkle it above the carb while you rev up the motor-rum, spr BA, rum, spr BA, Rum, Spr BA-----------do it over one primary port at a time, going back and forth as it will go into 4 cylinders according to your intake manifold design-alternating with sprinkle, rev, sprinkle rev sprinkle rev---------a few times and switch ventruies-
This has been used over the years on many industrial engines, race engines, aircraft engines,etc to lap in rings that weren't seated properly---------and today it seems that more and more rebuild projects are resulting like yours probably from faulty hone process and/or oil used or too easy break in procedure-------

Use up a whole can---------don't stop early------but do make sure that it goes into the carb as sort of a dusty cloud-no lumps or streams too big for the carb to mix with the inflow-----

And see if you can get some Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs BREAKIN oil

I still want to see pics of the rocker assy and oil splash shields from the top end

Here are some images for you

Hi: How much is a little? All it takes is a overlapping oil ring slinger. I am new to this forum so I don't know if this was already mentioned. You may have to tear it down to find out where the oil is coming from. This happened to me years ago. Just my 2 cents worth. Good-luck.

I am really not wanting to introduce cleaning products into this engine at this time. Especially after reading a lot of negative comments about doing so. I do appreciate the tip though as it might be fine to do. Old remedies like this can work wonders at times when other methods fail. I am having to modify a rubber tip to use to do a leak down test since the spark plug holes on these motors are so huge. It won't be til later this afternoon that I can see if anything can be found by doing this. I am so ready to get this behind me but love the challenge at the same time. I really don't want to break the motor down again so hoping there is another way to figure out and solve this problem.

I just ordered a replacement from an original FE390 so I will take care of that.

Oh yes. Totally aware of that. THey are in the proper location. I'm trying to find a parts store today that I can get a Leak Down Gauge set from. Hoping that I can hear some results and narrow this down.

That's weird. I just got back from there with it, thanks. Going to do some testing and I'll be back shortly with the results.

Crap. I can't use this kit. There is no adapter for the larger spark plug holes that these FE motors have.

I need a kit with an 18mm adapter. The mystery continues.

Since you have Ford oem adjustable rockers---------------is your block even drilled for the lifter galleys??? and/or the plugs in the galley??????

No that isn't an 18mm. I am going to try and use the hose off of my compression tester by taking out the valve stem. As soon as I find my stem remover I'm hoping it's removable. If not I'm going to need to order a kit off of Ebay. As for the lifter galley question, I have no idea. This engine was built by someone who raced cars and built many motors so hopefully they had this taken care of.

OK so I did the leak down test. The piston on problem child #6 may have gone down an 1/8 of an inch from being TDC but I'm thinking that would not have mattered. To my horror i am hearing air coming out of my dipstick tube and valve cover breather hole. The gauge was still showing about 35 and in the low range. What would be my next move? A bad ring seems like my problem or maybe this particular cylinder just hasn't seated yet or has some glazing on the cylinder wall. The thought of having to break this engine down again is at the bottom of my list. Do I have any other options at this point other than to keep driving it and see if it clears up?I wasn't sure if there was a way to tell if it's a ring issue or a cylinder issue.

What clearance are you using for valve settings?

Seems to me that where your at not wanting to take the engine down-Bon Ami over the venture that feeds the #6---------


ALSO--------change that spring set up on your throttle linkage and also move any wires/ sensor leads from that area because you are flirting with a stuck open throttle situation---------