Thread: F150 Pickup with 302.
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12-17-2004 08:56 AM #1
F150 Pickup with 302.
I've got a 1986 gas guzzling F150 2X4 grew cab Ford pickup Truck. It's fuel injected, and has a 302 engine. How can I get a little more power out of this beast without spending a lot of money. I am an old hot rodder, and anything I have owned has had power, but I am playing catch up now that I am retired. Last car I built was a 78 dodge. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
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12-22-2004 05:43 PM #2
Hey what's a centrifugal blower. They didn't have them when I came along, and I'm not an old geeser either, also to day is my 43 wedding anniversary. I am not but 39 yrs. old. To prove that my oldest son is not but 45 yrs old, and I was married when he was born. Now what did I do with that calculator. I keep forgetting where I put things. I guess I'll have to find me a 427 FE motor and do an engine swap.
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12-23-2004 06:22 AM #3
Naw! I don't want to go that deep. I've got a F100 short bed pickup with a 351 Cleveland with a 75 little chevy clip that I'm building now. I need to rewire it for starts.
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12-23-2004 08:04 AM #4
Shoot You Think You Have A Guzzler I Have A 429sjc In My F-350 And I Have To A Fuel Truck Fallow Medrive it like ya stole it
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12-23-2004 11:27 AM #5
But you got power i hope. Mine need a tanker in tow with no power. 13 MPG and wont pull . I've got a 78 Dodge Maxi Custom van with a 60 over bore 400. Comp. cam a little head work, performer intake with 4 barrel carb, and a few other little mods. It gets 13 MPG highway and runs and pull like the dikins. I've been thinking about putting the Gearhead mod on the 747 trans to get overdrive. Anyone have any suggestions on that.
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12-23-2004 11:37 AM #6
Yep I Have Plenty Of Power 13 Mpg I Get Maybe 8 As Long As I Keep My Foot Out Of The Secondary's what did chrysler come out with a new trany I heard of a 727 torc flite never a 747 I thought that was a big planedrive it like ya stole it
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12-23-2004 12:27 PM #7
put a nice torquey exhaust on the, cost probably $750
swap the cam out with something a lil more peppy, you could get a decent one from crane for about $150-$200 i reccomend changing the cam bearings but thats difficult without taking the engine
apart
depending on which 302 you have exactly, you can deck the block and turn it into a zero clearance engine and get a little higher compression(not expensive, just a pain in the ass)
you can put a cold air intake kit on there, K&N makes one for about $150 and its supposed to give you 15-20HP and 8-10lbs torque(offroad use only)
or you can be like mcguyver and make your own intake out of some tubing and a cone filter, doing this bypasses the airbox and baffle and gives you a higher flow filter.
these 4 modifications can be done at seperate times when you can afford them instead of having to put out the money all at one time while the engine is apart, but if you decided to deck the block and do the cam, make sure you do the cam first, and when U get the block decked have a good machinist do it for you, because your cam will make your valves open up a little furter...
enjoy the knowledge geezer that you've recieved from a 19 y/o, i'm just a kid
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12-23-2004 07:13 PM #8
Originally posted by john gemmer
Yep I Have Plenty Of Power 13 Mpg I Get Maybe 8 As Long As I Keep My Foot Out Of The Secondary's what did chrysler come out with a new trany I heard of a 727 torc flite never a 747 I thought that was a big plane
Opps!!!! John your're right. It is a 727 with a shift kit. My son works for American airlines and that's where the 747 came from. Having a senior moment I guess. But it's a fun buggy to drive.
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12-23-2004 07:26 PM #9
Out of the mouths of babes come revelations. Thanks Thesals, and note I capitalized that name. I am thinking about changing the cam out and doing some porting on the heads. Let it breathe a little also. Don't want to tie up too much money because I have several projects going like my 60 F100 clipped with a 351 Cleveland. I have more time than money now that I am retired, but I'm never going to grow up.
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12-23-2004 07:58 PM #10
dang One Boy you kind of sound like me I got two chevys one pontiac three ford and a yamaha in the tree Oh wait that aint right a partridge in a pear tree Oh yeah Im never growing up either maybe out but not updrive it like ya stole it
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12-23-2004 09:57 PM #11
i dont even wanna know where i'll be when I'm you're guy's ages, i already have a 66 mustang 69 galaxie 71 econoline a 61 rambler a 55 buick and 2 79 yamahas
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12-23-2004 11:41 PM #12
86 EFI? Thats the multi-port i'll assume. And now(drum roll please) the 20yr olds advice! The amount of HP is really relative to the amount of cash you want to spend. A few cheap tricks on the 5.0 are a cam, a high flow exhaust and a good ignition. The factory setup on all fords during the 80s was highly restrictive. Most of this can actually be found in the muffler itself. Pull that, bolt on a $30 turbo muffler, youll feel the difference. As for the cam, Crane has a few decent cams for that particular 5.0. With a 6500R redline(dont quote this) this is a heavy breathing engine. As such, a little lift goes a long way. As far as the cold-air intake, thesals hit it dead on. The factory box tends to collect heat directly under the filter. There are a few ways to cure this problem. Either run a direct out plumbing setup, but if you live in a dusty area this is a bad idea due to lack of filtration. My personal suggestion is this. Off the outside of the air intake, run a hose directly to your fender. Cut out a hole to match your hose, and you have an external air draw. Just be sure it doesnt point directly down. As for your ignition, a good high-voltage coil will do wonders. Just be sure to replace the cap/rotor/wires with a quality set and it should hold up nicely. Finally, replace every rubber vacum line on this motor as soon as possible. With nearly 20 years of use, the first thing to go on these motors is the vacum lines. Huge power loss. In the process, it may be wise to replace the PCV valve and EGR valve. The PCV is found on the back near the firewall. Chances are good that the seal is bad. Its a 1-2 inch rubber gromit, very easy to replace. As for the EGR, its on the side of your plenum near the throttle plates. You may want to replace it, you may want to dis-engage it, thats your choice. A effective move for the EGR is to clean it with a knife you dont care about. But when its $15 for the new one, its ultimatly your call. Hope this Helps.Right engine, Wrong Wheels
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12-24-2004 04:05 AM #13
Originally posted by thesals
i dont even wanna know where i'll be when I'm you're guy's ages, i already have a 66 mustang 69 galaxie 71 econoline a 61 rambler a 55 buick and 2 79 yamahasdrive it like ya stole it
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12-24-2004 10:52 AM #14
Originally posted by drg84
86 EFI? Thats the multi-port i'll assume. And now(drum roll please) the 20yr olds advice! The amount of HP is really relative to the amount of cash you want to spend. A few cheap tricks on the 5.0 are a cam, a high flow exhaust and a good ignition. The factory setup on all fords during the 80s was highly restrictive. Most of this can actually be found in the muffler itself. Pull that, bolt on a $30 turbo muffler, youll feel the difference. As for the cam, Crane has a few decent cams for that particular 5.0. With a 6500R redline(dont quote this) this is a heavy breathing engine. As such, a little lift goes a long way. As far as the cold-air intake, thesals hit it dead on. The factory box tends to collect heat directly under the filter. There are a few ways to cure this problem. Either run a direct out plumbing setup, but if you live in a dusty area this is a bad idea due to lack of filtration. My personal suggestion is this. Off the outside of the air intake, run a hose directly to your fender. Cut out a hole to match your hose, and you have an external air draw. Just be sure it doesnt point directly down. As for your ignition, a good high-voltage coil will do wonders. Just be sure to replace the cap/rotor/wires with a quality set and it should hold up nicely. Finally, replace every rubber vacum line on this motor as soon as possible. With nearly 20 years of use, the first thing to go on these motors is the vacum lines. Huge power loss. In the process, it may be wise to replace the PCV valve and EGR valve. The PCV is found on the back near the firewall. Chances are good that the seal is bad. Its a 1-2 inch rubber gromit, very easy to replace. As for the EGR, its on the side of your plenum near the throttle plates. You may want to replace it, you may want to dis-engage it, thats your choice. A effective move for the EGR is to clean it with a knife you dont care about. But when its $15 for the new one, its ultimatly your call. Hope this Helps.
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12-24-2004 11:01 AM #15
Oh! and I guess I need to learn to put my reply in the right place also. But Thanks again drg84, your information is very helpful as well as economical. I'm starting all over again in the hot rod stuff.
Merry Christmas ya'll
Merry Christmas