Thread: 351C CJ or Boss

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A buddy of mine has a 351C CJ or Boss (he has not been able to find out which one it is for SURE yet but pretty sure it's the CJ because of the huge heads it has that are really good) engine that he said he would sell me. There is one problem. One of the con rods broke and messed the crank shaft up and chipped a small part of the cylinder off at the very bottom. He said that the spot where it chipped off is where they would machine it on a stroker motor for the con rod to clear and that it's not in the way of the oil ring or whatever. This thing has nice big headers, Edelbrock Torquer (sp) manifold, those HUGE heads with the big ports, nice aluminum rocker arms and a good sized cam that is no good anymore either. He said a new piston, crank shaft and cam would be all I need. He has everything else for it. 450 bucks and I can slowly pay him off if I want to.
1.) Is this a good price?
2.) Will that chip on the cylinder wall at the very bottom be a problem if the oil ring or whatever he said it was would not go past it?
3.) Will something like this do well behing my brand new C4?

Thanks a lot for any help here. I have to let him know if I want it here in about 2 days tops.

Post the block and head casting numbers here.

If it's a 4V head, the runners are too big for street use. Got to go 6000 RPM to use all that flow. The 2V heads are a lot better for street use.

If it's a 4V head, the runners are too big for street use. Got to go 6000 RPM and up to use all that flow. The 2V heads are a lot better for street use.

If you have a Windsor in your truck, the bellhousing on your C-4 won't bolt up to the Cleveland engine.......

if it is not in the oil ring land or not take up the hole piston skirt surface it will be fine but you need to smooth the spot out with a diegrinder but if so it can be sleeved and the crank may be welded and reginded and i would get the block check for cracks and pressure check before putting the money down

Yeah I may do that. Ok I emailed the guy for casting numbers so they should be here in about 25 minutes or less. Yes they are 4v heads. The ports are huge! Not sure if I want to use a 351C for a race motor. Not sure what kind of power they put out. I'd be better off with a 460 I think. Either way all this information I need if I buy the thing or not because I have a friend that may know someone that wants it if I don't get it. But yeah, how will it hold up to with that C4? Will the C4 hold up to a 351C pretty well?
Thanks again guys!

The block is D2AE-Ca date code of 3A24
Heads are D32E aa open chamber types
Balncer is D1ZE-6316AB 260-2x
Rods are DOAE-Ea

There ya go! He said the local place near me will sleeve each cylinder for 50 bucks and that sleeving the motor is ok to do... I always see people saying they hate to sleeve it and think of it as a bad thing but he said it's not.
Thanks a lot for anymore info here guys!

block is D2AE-Ca = late 71 to early 74 351CJ block
Heads are D3ZE aa =CJ heads 73-76cc 2.19" intake, 1.71" exhaust with 2.50" X1.75" intake ports and 2.00" X 1.74" exhaust ports
Balancer is D1ZE-=351C
Rods are DOAE-Ea=351 2v ORr351 4v Rods

Not a bad pile of parts, just not crazy about resleeving the block...More of a personal preference.

Also might want to think about getting a built C6 transmission, as the C4 unless it's specificly built for it will not handle the potential torque of the 351CJ build.....

Bill S.

Originally posted by mrmustang
block is D2AE-Ca = late 71 to early 74 351CJ block
Heads are D3ZE aa =CJ heads 73-76cc 2.19" intake, 1.71" exhaust with 2.50" X1.75" intake ports and 2.00" X 1.74" exhaust ports
Balancer is D1ZE-=351C
Rods are DOAE-Ea=351 2v ORr351 4v Rods

Not a bad pile of parts, just not crazy about resleeving the block...More of a personal preference.

Also might want to think about getting a built C6 transmission, as the C4 unless it's specificly built for it will not handle the potential torque of the 351CJ build.....

Bill S.

well my$ 5000 donovan block came sleeved ? what the big deal ? i shure some one would be happy to have the block if they need it for there car

Ok here is my next question to help me decide if I will get this thing.... Say that I want to pro street my 66 F100, well would a 460 and a built C6 be better and cheaper in the end to get the most HP 500 or so or would that be fine to get this 351C? What would you guys do? I actually can get a 460 and C6 that needs rebuilding for 250 bucks. A guy in my hot rod club here told me about it.

the 351 parts are worth more$$ for shure some would give you more than what you paid . 460 will make more tq but i think 500 hp for the 351 could be done this is up to you. i would buy it to sell , and then put all the money in the 460 and stroke it out

Yeah that is true... Guess I could put it all on Ebay or whatnot. The guy said he was going to do that but needs the money and doesn't want to spend the time to put everything seperate on Ebay. He said too much of a pain in the ass....

I have a couple of clevelands and they all have FMX with them, I have heard alot people say that they weren't that good of a transmission but the FMX's held up good with mine for a stock build.We had one that was in a 1956 F-100 but we took it out and now have a 460 in it,like what you are thinking about doing.If it is a 4-bolt main I would get it but that is just my opinion.Dave

If it broke a rod there's a good chance that the other 7 rods are hurt, too. Check the big ends for roundness before using them. I don't like using engines that have undergone "catastrophic self-destruction"! Sounds like a leverite to me. Leave 'er right where ya found 'er!

Ok well here is the deal... He said I can have it for 200 bucks if I help him out with his 71 Mustang on some body work which I wouldn't mind doing... I could sell the parts all seperate and make more money back on Ebay or something. What do you think?