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Thread: 302 windsor 89 mustang motor
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    steve 4 is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    302 windsor 89 mustang motor

     



    i have received a 302 windsor (70degree) High Output motor imported from america out of a 89 mustang with 5 speed gearbox for free so im feeling good. only thing is the motor is in bits ready for rebuild and i have only ever owned holdens. i therefore have no idea how good these drivetrains are and would like to know more about them any ideas where to find info on how to rebuild or specs iam first time rebuilder with dreams of finding capri to put it in or maybe falcon if too capri too expensive. any advice would be appreciated

  2. #2
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The 302/5-speed is a great combo. Standard overhaul procedures apply. Pay close attention to the bores, the blocks are not as hard as other engines and wear faster.

  3. #3
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    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    U are gunna have to exsplain that 1 ,blocks are not hard as others?
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  4. #4
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    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    very good choice on motors... heres a tip... if you want to do a good quality rebuild with as little frustration as possible... get a book called How To Rebuild Your Small Block Ford http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/091...books&v=glance
    this book gives you a lot of information and gives you the easiest methods to get the job done....
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  5. #5
    steve 4 is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    THANX EVERONE FOR YOUR REPLIES, THE BORE SEEMS FINE AND AM ARRANGING THE REBUILD BOOK NOW. GLAD TO HERE THAT THE DRIVETRAIN IS A GOOD ONE ONLY A MATTER OF TIME TILL IM ON THE STREETS

  6. #6
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    By "not as hard" I mean that they wear faster than, say, a SBC. Ford had the right alloy in the FE series, those things could be re-ringed several times before needing a rebore, but every 289-302-351 I've torn down needed a rebore.

  7. #7
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The newer ford 302s 86 + have incredibly hard surface ,the local rag just did and article on a 160,000 mile 302 they put the mic to it and it only needed a hone,then pumped 600 horse thru it.I am sure there is a reason for this?rings?better balance?newer metals?
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  8. #8
    dennis kelley is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    302

     



    This is an excellent motor. The only shortcoming of the motor are the heads. they are very restrictive. Do a machine shop rebuild (rings, bearing, light hone and a gasket kit and new oil pump). Install good heads like AFR 165 or Trick flow, edelbrock and you can get 300 rwhp with a stock short block and mild cam. Thats what I did. These motors are very reliable near indestrucble below 400 fwhp

    later

    dennis

  9. #9
    dennis kelley is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Put a new harmonic balancer on the motor. 50 oz for the later ho 302's. These motors have forged factory pistons and can take some abuse. Also buy a $12.00 hardened oil pump drive shaft as cheap insurance. next set you rpm limiter at 6200 because these motors are hyd roller lifter and beat the piss out of it. Sorry for talking so much.

    later

    Dennis

  10. #10
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by R Pope
    By "not as hard" I mean that they wear faster than, say, a SBC. Ford had the right alloy in the FE series, those things could be re-ringed several times before needing a rebore, but every 289-302-351 I've torn down needed a rebore.
    O.K.,I will be the first to admit I don't build a lot of the SBF engines but here is something that has happend to me on the 5.0 roller blocks.Dis-assemble the block use you inside bore gouge to check your taper top to bottom.Write down your numbers.Now go bolt and (torque) on your water pump.Run your inside bore gauge again.I have tried this on maybe 3-4 SBF over the past year and I was able to pull the front two cylinders more out of round on each block.When I do build a SBF I always bore it with the water pump on.Was it just the blocks I had or was it others also?A few where at.030 over already and had to go to .040 to clean -up .Try the test yourself.Since then I have only used the pre-roller blocks.

  11. #11
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by R Pope
    [B]By "not as hard" I mean that they wear faster than, say, a SBC. Ford had the right alloy in the FE series, those things could be re-ringed several times before needing a rebore, but every 289-302-351 I've torn down needed a rebore.

  12. #12
    MIT QUK is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by erik erikson
    [B]
    Originally posted by R Pope
    By "not as hard" I mean that they wear faster than, say, a SBC. Ford had the right alloy in the FE series, those things could be re-ringed several times before needing a rebore, but every 289-302-351 I've torn down needed a rebore.
    That's because most sbc are rebuilt at 115000

    And most sbf are rebuilt at 250000

  13. #13
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the heads up on the newer blocks Erik.... I do know even the older blocks move around a bunch when measuring the bore with and without the deck plates bolted on.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  14. #14
    Fabio421's Avatar
    Fabio421 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thats an interesting point with the water pump. I'm sure you are right. Its exactly the same concept as using a deck plate when boring the cylinders.

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