Thread: What should I do for a tad more power

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I'm getting ready to buy a '67 Mustang coupe with a 289, completly stock. This is gonna be a daily driver but I wanna it to have some pep.

So what I'm looking for is some upgrades but not a drag or race car.

The one thing I do want is a nice mild cam for that loping action.

What should I do for it, intake, heads, carb, cam, crank, what?

if I can make some suggestions.

1. get a good flowing exhaust system. any other upgrades will be complemented by the exhaust.$300+

2.headers. for both good sound and flow.$350+

3. upgrade factory ignition to something like an MSD distributor ,coil, wires. along with a good set of plugs
$400+

4. crane cams Energizer Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit
Lift: .484''/.484''
Duration: 272°/272°
RPM Range: 2000-5000
$120+
and dont forget a good timing set, and any head work, that will make more power and keep the engine mostly stock.

5. aluminum intake manifold. edelbrock or holley $145+

6. carb, fuel pump will run $250+

if you are interrested I can give you part numbers and more details on the suggested upgrades I have mentioned.

I would love some more input on these parts.

BTW, you think I should go with Borla or Flowmaster mufflers?

Also, what are some good companys that make headers

there are so many that build headers for you car you are lucky . flowmaster are ok here again is so many out ther making muffler. it get down to what you want the borlas are a fine mufflers. i would run a X cross on the ex they sound great i think

I forgot to mention that all the upgrades I have suggested. you can do any one of them at any time as money alows you to do so.

also dont just think about the engine, you should upgrade the brakes , shocks, and transmission for a good solid and safe ride.

aluminized exhaust pipes. with a kit like Summit Header-Back Dual Exhaust kit "SUM-680110" $130
or
jegs> Stainless Works Rod Builder Exhaust Kits Rod Builder Custom Exhaust Kit, jegs part# 842-RB25X $480.

hedman hedders headers 1-5/8'' Tubes 3'' Collector,
HTC Ceramic Coating . jegs part # 500-88666 $386
or
Stainless Works Headers Mustang jegs Part # 842-FTY9901 $647.

MSD Pro-Billet Ready-To-Run distributor jegs part#121-8352 $280
Blaster-2F Coil #121-8205 $40.
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Sets summit part#MSD-35389 $87.

Accel U-Groove Performance Spark Plugs set of 8 plugs jegs #111-8199 $ 22.
or
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs set of 8 summit part# NGK-6630 $20


Energizer Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit Lift: .484''/.484'' Duration: 272°/272°
RPM Range: 2000-5000 jegs#270-130052 $120.
or
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts Camshaft & Lifter Kit Lift: .522''/.538''
Duration: 268°/276° RPM Range: 1800-6200 jegs#638-61003LK $190.
this cam will require some engine mods. I will give that info later on down the line.

crane cams timing set Pro-Series Roller Chain Set jegs#270-44984-1 $100.

melling High Volume Oil Pump jegs#689-M68HV $32.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold jegs #350-7121 $157.
or
Holley Street Dominator Intake Manifold summit#HLY-300-39 $144

Edelbrock Performer Series 750 cfm Electric Choke carb jegs#350-1411 $282. this maybe to big but you can change the jets up or down this size of carb will be all you need.
or
Holley 750cfm Vacuum Secondary Electric Choke carb jegs#510-O-80508S $270.

Edelbrock Performer Fuel Pump jegs#350-1725 $85.



engine mods as follows. you can use factory heads but they with need porting , valves , springs. for what you will spend you can get a new set of heads that allready flow much better. here is my suggestion on heads

AFR- AirFlowResearch- Outlaw Street Cylinder Heads 165cc Intake Ports Pedestal Rocker Arm Mounting 60cc Combustion Chambers
69cc Exhaust Ports 1.450'' Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring with dam
120 lbs. Seat Pressure .550'' Max Lift. jegs part#033-1472 $1,330 for 2 heads complete .
or
DART Pro 1 CNC Cylinder Heads 225cc Intake Ports 62cc Combustion Chambers 2.08'' Int/1.60'' Exh Valves 1.437'' Dual Springs, 130lbs @ 1.800'' .620'' Max Lift jegs#301-13071122 $2,492.


crankshaft you can use the stock . but if you want a much stronger bottom end you will have to change the stroke.

pistons will depend upon how far the machine shop will bore the cylinders . in combination with a longer stroke crank and rods. that will change the compression ratio

but you can get forged low compression pistons like SRP Pistons Dia.: 4.030'' Piston Top: -2.7cc Dish, 4-Valve Reliefs Pressed Pin
Comp Ratio: 9.42:1 w/60.4cc Heads, 8.55:1 w/69cc Heads
Ring Grooves: 5/64'', 5/64'', 3/16''
this piston can let you run on regular pump gas . still have desent milage.

like i said I would leave the crank and rods alone, unless you question there condition , the max hp that you could get from this combo would be just under 320hp , and a stock cast crank and rods can handle this and up to 380hp without breaking a sweat.

you can make it better by installing a good set of main, rod,cam bearings, use plasti guage to check for oil clearences . they should match the factory specs.

the bearings I recomend are Clevite 77 you can get these anywhere, like autozone , call them for the best price

gaskets use felpro brand . get them at places like autozone
anything you can get at a local autoparts store would be much cheeper .

with this combo you with need to also upgrade the transmission torque converter to a B&M Holeshot 2400 Converter jegs #130-50416 $280.
and a B&M Shift Improver Kit jegs#130-50260 $30.

moving back to the rear of the car . you have many options for rearends for this car. local bone yards will set you up for around $200.

replace all motor, and trans mounts, driveshaft Ujoints with new ones, that way you eliminate any week links.

If I missed anything just ask.

a mustang owner myself... the best headers i've found for space saving but keeping good flow are Dougs Headers, they run about $450-600 a little pricey but they're worth it.... other than that, to keep it street but pickup a well rounded power amount go with an edelbrock performer package, comes with heads, intake, carb and cam and all the in between parts.... they run about $1500-2000 but they're all nice parts for a 289, and they all compliment each other very well..... good luck with the mustang and heres a coupla mustang sites that'll help you out very much.... www.laurelmountainmustang.com and www.jmcmotorsports.com

also if that car has a lot of miles on it, i'd definately compression test it, and maybe have the tranny inspected.... those c-4s tend to run like champs and then just quit

thanks fordsfairlane, thesals and pat mccarthy. I like the idea of using seperate parts instead of the complete edlebrock package. I like edelbrock intakes but when it comes to Carbs I'm a Holley man.

I would really love to swap the old 3 speed for one of them old Hurst 4 speeds with the optional slap shifter.

in that case, you can order from JMC motorsports a 5speed conversion kit for your car... and still use the hurst slapshifter with it.... that kit is pricey tho

I also need to look at tires and wheels. Tires NEED replacement, the back tires have the original wheels, but the front does not.

also my dad said he would hang me if I were to stroke a 289. He says the 289 has the perfect motion of the pistons. He says the length of the stroke allows the piston to never cockeye on the rod.

Ok, the oldman has given me some limitations, no boring unless absolutely neccesary and no stroking

sounds like decent limitations, i'd tear down the bottom end and if it comes out clean enough, just hone and polish, then put new bearings and rings on and leave it be.... possibly replace the pistons, but only if they're really bad

I agree with your Dad, stroking is a waste of time , especially with a 289 when there are 302's and 351's stacked like cordwood at every wrecker in the country.
For a transmission upgrade, get a T5 overdrive out of a newer 'Tang , or a toploader 4-speed if you can find one that's priced reasonable.
Don't go overboard on the cam. A small engine can't stand a lot of duration, it'll turn into a peaky "dog" with no power at all unless you scream it, not the best on the street.
Good luck on your car,sounds like FUN!

And if you just want to go the simple route, how about these thoughts:

1) Headers going back to turbo mufflers. Relatively cheap and pretty efficient. Sound mellow too.

2) A PAW cam and lifter set up. Less than $100 and is actually a Crane cam in a private label box.

3) A Unilite distributor and Accel Super Coil. I've got this setup in my 5.0 powered Jeep pickup, and it is flawless for the street.

4) Any dual plane aluminum intake.

5) An Edelbrock 500 cfm electric choke carb. I know alot of people like Holleys, but on my street cars I don't like to fiddle. You bolt Edelbrocks on and forget they are there. No fuss no muss.

6) An electric fan. It will cool better and free up some extra HP.

7) A good double roller timing chain set. I've bought house brands, and they are not accurate. Still won't cost a fortune.

8) A good set of high perf plug wires and new plugs.

9) You say you have a 3 speed. Good. thesals is right about stock c-4's going out with no warning. Been there. The 3 speed will do fine until you get more money to go to a 4 or 5 speed. I've abused the 3 speed toploader in my '27 for 14 years, and it still works great.

10) Gears. No other modification for the money will give you the seat of the pants performance as simply dropping your rear end ratio a little deeper, especially with that stick. Right now you probably have something like 3:00 gears, I would go to 3:70's in that 8 inch rear. 4;10's are too deep, in my opinion. Nice around town, but don't get on the interstate unless you like buzzing 4 grand all day.

My ex-wife had pretty much this same set up in her little '68 coupe, and it got decent fuel milage, was dependable, and ran a whole lot better than when stock. A WHOLE LOT BETTER.

The reasons I am making these particular suggestions is that you are probably going to be a little tight on money just from buying the car, so these can be done one at a time as you get more cash. By the way, put all of your old take off parts in a big box and KEEP THEM. If you ever go to sell the stang, the next guy may think it is worth a lot more money stock. (Remember all the guys who tossed stock 426 Hemi exhaust manifolds in the dumpster back in the'60's. Check the prices now)

Enjoy the mustang. The 67-68's were great drivers.

Actually I'm getting it rather cheap, $2500