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Thread: Head advice for my 289.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    truedog's Avatar
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    Question Head advice for my 289.

     



    I think my engine build for my '64 Fairlane will be fairly mild. I am just looking for it to be a nice cruiser, with snappy pickup and decent fuel economy. It has a 3.00 rear and an C-4.

    For the engine I am thinking Performer intake, 500-600 carb, 289 HiPo exhaust manifolds, and an XE256 cam - 256/268 212/218@.050 477/484 110 degrees separation.

    My question is this: With this combo, would I see a big benefit with Windsor Jr. heads as opposed to just rebuilding the stock 2V heads? In other words, is the additional cost justified by the benefits?

  2. #2
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    niether...

     



    Niether. Find a nice set of "J" code heads. They are the 4 barrel cast iron heads. I just sold a set for $400.
    Michael

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I am a little ignorant though. Please tell me how to decode the casting numbers for "J" heads. Which digit is the "J"?

  4. #4
    natureboy300 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Im not familiar with "j" code heads but would agree with cobra that you dont want the windsor jr heads they have larger intake runners and you with your mild combo you arent pulling enough air in to keep velocities up.

    NB

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    Oh man... You need to familliarize yourself with Ford Engine Codes. Ford used codes to describe the engines they installed in passenger vehicles for all cars and years since time began.

    http://www.jerryodom.com/mustangcodes.html

    Ford guys need to be about 25x smarter than other hotrodders because of this...

    Example.

    Vehicle A). 1969 Ford Mustang Sports Roof, "R" code all original 199,000 miles... No options, 4 speed, no radio. 4.10:1 gears. Needs total restoration.

    Vehicle B). 1969 Ford Mustang Sports Roof "T" code, auto trans. 80,000 original miles fresh paint new interior $3,000 sound system, alarm, new seats. Runs great.

    On the surface they are almost the same but vecicle B would be better right???

    Wrong. Even requiring total restoration the first car would be worth about $65,000 more than the second.

    The first car is a 1969 Ford Mustang with a 428 CJ and a 4 speed... with the options described (none) and 4.10:1 gears it would have been one of 500 "drag pack" cars which came with standard drum brakes, no radio and a very pain interior.... These cars sell for $65,000-$80,000.

    The second car is a 200 cubic inch 6 cylinder... Plain jane secratary's car. Maybe worth $4,000-6000. mostly because of the stereo and it being a fast back.... Likely someone would buy it and cut it up for a restomod.

    Want more... Here's a "Z" code 1969 Ford Mustang. 867 were made. This owner DECLINED to sell it for $110,000.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...spagenameZWDVW

    Read my post. "J" code heads are standard 4 barrel heads. They are good performers when matched to a nice intake and are easily avaliable in junk yards. All small block 4 barrel equipped Fairlaines, Galaxies, Mustangs, Cougars and trucks had them.

    Happy Hunting!
    Michael

  6. #6
    truedog's Avatar
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    Originally posted by natureboy300
    Im not familiar with "j" code heads but would agree with cobra that you dont want the windsor jr heads they have larger intake runners and you with your mild combo you arent pulling enough air in to keep velocities up.

    NB
    What about AFR 165's? They have smaller runners and would probably work well, but would the additional expense be justified? If I decide to swap to a larger cam at some point it would be nice to already have decent heads.

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have had better luck (and better dyno numbers) with the TFS heads. Maybe the Airflow heads have gotten better, don't know. Not really up on the skinny Windsor stuff anymore......
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  8. #8
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    Go to the top of the page and click "dyno tests", then click Ford tests.....
    http://www.airflowresearch.com/
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

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    Wow!!! The test with the 185 heads and the Paxton Novi has some VERY nice numbers!!!! Thanks for the link, Tech.....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  10. #10
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    I just want have someting clarified. From the reading I have been doing, the 4V "J" code 302 heads should have the casting number C8OE-F. Is that correct? What is the correct casting number for the 4V 289 heads?
    Last edited by truedog; 01-26-2006 at 11:10 AM.

  11. #11
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    oops
    Last edited by truedog; 01-27-2006 at 07:47 AM.

  12. #12
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    i'd go with the 68-69 3/8 stud carbs, they were off the highest HP series smallblocks, with a little port work they can flow beautifully, i have a set of the HO version of those heads, they were awesome stock, ported and polished them and went to 351 sized valves, and they're just amazing now
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  13. #13
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    Originally posted by thesals
    i'd go with the 68-69 3/8 stud carbs, they were off the highest HP series smallblocks, with a little port work they can flow beautifully, i have a set of the HO version of those heads, they were awesome stock, ported and polished them and went to 351 sized valves, and they're just amazing now
    Any good sources to find these heads?

  14. #14
    truedog's Avatar
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    I talked to a guy at a local shop where they work on a lot of Fords. He said he had a set of heads that he recently pulled off of a 68 Cougar 302. He said that they are 4V heads, and that the car ran fine before they pulled the heads off, and that they look fine but probably need a rebuild. He didn't know how much he would want for them.
    How much should I offer? Since they need rebuilt would an offer of $150 for the pair be fair on my part? I do need to look at them and verify the casting numbers. They should be C8OE-F, correct?

  15. #15
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    sounds like a decent set of heads, and sounds like a reasonable offer, specially if you have him do the work.... if they've got pressed in studs, you might want to ask him to pull those and put in screw in studs.... i've had problems with the pressed in ones pulling out when you put a higher lift cam in...
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

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