Thread: lost of compression on rebuilt engine, need help

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Right, my 260 was adjustable. The memory's the second thing to go, and I forget what the first thing is!
Still, check the pushrod length and installed height of the valves.

OF100man, later ball rockers were positive stop too, not sure of the year that started.

After a struggle and Denny's help I got the page from my Ford engine manual to upload. 1967 section 7 page7-104. It boggles my mind to find conflicting info from the same source. I can understand old timer's conditions but this makes me go HUH?........

That highlighted area was from the previous 6 cyl lash section. I didn't want to post the whole book on here.I porpusely left the firing order below the highted area for the six. I was hoping it would be caught as to let the readers see it was a different engine.

Will all of the different info for the mechanics back then, it's a wonder anything ran without bailing wire and a BFH

Those books come from a time when,...bon-ami,saw dust and banna peels were engine additives....... j/k Gatta give you kids a hard time!!!!
Ford changed stuff faster than the books could be made
Then they used up all the old parts on the new models,meaning if you bought a car or truck in those change over years,they could have anything under the hood.

Be real careful if you are using the Tom Monroe book on how to rebuild your SBF. There are several errors that I have found, and in my case with 351W's. It's an OK book but there is better information available and as pointed out here, there isn't any of it 100% right, depending on the plant it was built in, the day of the week, phase of the moon, heat of the sun and so on with this vintage SB Ford. Accepting that's what differntiates a real Blue Oval person - he makes them run past the Bowties

I wont touch a later Chiltons - they have so many inaccuracies that they become worse then no book. A "for instance" - I needed to replace all 4 ball joints on my '01 F150 4x4, not a really big job but it does take some disassembly. The Chiltons have you removing the CV joints and pulling the front shafts and diassembling the sway bar links. All you need to do is pull the hub, knock the ball joints loose from the spindle with a pickle fork, press out the bottom joint, unbolt the upper A arm for the uppers then reassemble in the opposite order and in about half the time and a quarter of the work.

I guess what I'm trying to say, at least for me, is that most mechanical work, especially on an older design engine that we usually discuss in this forum is common sense and that the "how to" books are a guideline that provides part dimension specifications as well as reassembly clearances and fastener torque values.

Dave forgot to mention if it was getting close to 5:00 pm on Friday. Then you never knew what you were going to get from them.

Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

Dave forgot to mention if it was getting close to 5:00 pm on Friday. Then you never knew what you were going to get from them.

Especially if it was a holiday weekend as well and a cold brew and a sweet young lady was waiting as well. ( Now you know why some power plants never ran well either )

Oops...forgot about that. Brown bottle flue.....

hey thats why i love my fords.... you can get parts on your motor from 5 different years, and its all still matching numbers

I started up the mustang. it ran great no leaks. i checked compression after i ran the engine 190psi on 7 cylinders the 8th cylinder had 185psi. thanks everyone

you're welcome.... sounds good to me..... not too off..... i personally would run a power balance to see what kind of percentages i'm getting between that 185 and 190..... probably wouldn't come up with anything worthwhile though... and its something more for picking around than being important