Thread: overheating problem

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just picked up a 64 galaxie with a rebuilt 289 its got new a new waterpump,new radiator,new thermostat,new hoses,set the timing at ten btdc and set the pointgap at .017 which it all called for,but still runs between 200 & 240 .after i park it goes higher.can someone help dont know what else to do!!!!!!!!!

Are you sure the guage is reading correctly?

If the engine has JUST been rebuilt (i.e. you are in the process of breaking it in) it may just be a little tight as everything wears in). Try some short trips when the weather cooler and get a few miles on it to break it in.

Is the temp at idle ot running down the highway?

What type of fan and shroud (if memory serves correctly that would have a fixed 4 blade and no shroud stock)

What are the weather conditions and driving conditions? (100 degree days at 75 MPH up hill will tax any cooling system especailly in an 4000 pound car).

A picture of your engine compartment/cooling system might be helpfull.

Originally Posted by munkeyonmyback

just picked up a 64 galaxie with a rebuilt 289 its got new a new waterpump,new radiator,new thermostat,new hoses,set the timing at ten btdc and set the pointgap at .017 which it all called for,but still runs between 200 & 240 .after i park it goes higher.can someone help dont know what else to do!!!!!!!!!

Working in a garage years ago, one of the most common causes of overheating that I found was that someone put the thermostat in backwards. The temp sensing pellet goes toward the engine. If it is going past 240 after shutdown and the pressure cap isn't raising, then I would also check the temperature gauge (and the cap) as well.

I'm wondering if it could be an air bubble in the cooling system?

I went through 3 drain and refills on my 69 ranger before I got the air out. Best money I've spent was a 1.00 heater hose fitting between the intake and the firewall. It has a screw on cap and on mine I attach a bungee cord to heater hose and the bottom of hood to pull it above the rest of the cooling system. Fire it up, crack the cap just a bit and once it warms up it burps itself.

Shroud would be pretty important as mentioned.

Also, my problems were complicated by an orginal radiator. Once I replaced that I can't get it above 190 even sitting in traffic in 98 degrees.

Correct coolant mix and good cap matter as well.

Good luck!

I would check the temp with a temp gun, because as mentioned above, may be the gauge. I am embarassed to tell you how much I spent, including a new aluminum radiator, to find out my heating problem was the gauge.

Jack

Wasn't there an issue with putting small block Ford head gaskets on backwards, and blocking the cooling hole? You mention the engine was just rebuilt, did it ever run cool after the rebuild?


Don

when i bought the car it was already put together,i just bought a new 7lb. radiator cap,had a 13lb went around the block, still hot.the temp gauge is aftermarket came with the car,might be a wrong temp reading.trying to hook up original one,hope it works.never had a fan shroud dont think 289 came with one.might try and buy an electric fan,what do you guys think?

My own personal opinion is that you would be better off with a good mechanical fan, either with a clutch and a fixed 7 blade fan or an OE 7 Blade Ford Flex fan (they just flat move more air than the aftermarket flex fans) AND A FAN SHROUD. This will insure that the air is actually moving thru the radiator. It will be a little hard to find, but the 64s with factory AC would have had a shroud. A factory shroud off something latter model should be fairly easy to adapt if originality is not a problem.

The 7 pound cap will not do you any favors, it will blow off sooner resulting in quicker boil over if it does overheat. The only reason to run a low poundage cap is if the cooling system (primarily radiator and heater core) is weak and your afraid of them springing leaks.

The 6 cyl and 289 radiators were a bit on the smallish side to begin with, you might go with an oversize aluminum radiator (with shroud) like I did in my 64. I got my radiator off E Bay for less than $200 including shipping. That, a factory flex fan and a shroud were more than enough to keep my fresh engine (with a .110 overbore) cool during breaking yesterday. 180 degrees with a 180 degree thermostat.

There's some pictures of my setup (to include installation) here if you haven't already seen them

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...t=16968&page=3

my 289 always stays pretty cool except when pulling the boat
as long as you can make shure your gauge is working the next thing i would take shot at would be pulling your thermostat and see how it heats then. you may be surprised that it will run cooler especially witht the smaller stock rad What temp thermostat do you have in it i could only find a 190 degree stat minumum and have been running it. on a hot day pushing the car it climbs to about 200 or a little better.
not much to lose but a gasket and a little coolant

ive got a 180 degree stat in it & a 3 core radiator ill try it without the thermostat and see what happens,if it still runs hot ill try what MIKE P says and getan oversize alum radiator.by the way im running a 7blade flex ford fan.thanks,MARCO.

If your running the the flex fan and have a new 3 row radiator it should be enough to cool the engine (a fan shroud would be a bid help.

If it's heating just going around the block, and at this point I would replave the thermostat which may be enough to solve the problem.

If the thermostat has been grossly overheated it may be bad and the real cause of you problems. Before you install it, drill a 1/8" hole in the flange where the gasket will not cover it. This will allow any air to bleed out before you fire it up.

Any chance you have a GM thermostat in the Ford housing?

Chevy's fit the Fords, but the problem is, when the Chevy stat is open it does not have the button on the bottom to seal off the bypass hole in the bottom of the thermostat well like Fords do.

When that happens almost half of the coolant gets bypassed and doesn't get cooled by the radiator.

Two fixes.
Run a Ford thermostat.
If you can't find the temperature rating you want, you can still run the GM stat.
Tap the hole in the bottom of the thermostat well - 1/4-NPT if I remember right - and screw in a flush allen headed pipe plug.
Use Neverseize so you can backtrack if you want.

I did this little trick in a Cleveland 400-M.
I know the Windsor stat housing is different, but I'll bet it has the same bypass system in it.

I had a very similar problem with my 69 Chevelle. I replaced and flushed everything water related. I even went as far as to replace the radiator, and install an electric pusher fan. Turned out it was the old mechanical advance distributor not advancing on acceleration. At idle it was fine so I never suspected that as a problem. I replaced the old distributor with a new HEI and it fixed the problem.

I had a similar problem with my 69 Chevelle. I replaced everything water related at least once, including the radiator. Nothing would cool it down. I even went as far as to put a pusher fan on the radiator.

Turned out it was the old mechanical advance distributor. It would start and idle fine, but would not advance on accleration. That may be your problem. I know it haunted me for years.