Thread: 1969 302 help

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I am helping a neighbor in the build of a 65 retro mod Mustang . He pulled this engine from it 10 years ago and shelved it . Well we swap some things back and forth and I asked him about what he was doing with the heads he said nothing so I went down and got them .

Well they end up being D00E-C heads which some say are 70 s . But one thing good is they are 58 CC heads bringing in a 9.5-1 compression ratio . So he calls me back and asked If I want the engine and I say sure , It ends up being a 69 date code . The only bore I measured was dead on 4 inch .

The rods show where machine work was done , so maybe the bottom end was balanced which would be a plus for me .

Ok so what should I do with the head , valve train to make it better . I will be inserting a Comp 351 grind 268 H cam . It has a mild 456 lift with a 112 degree lode separation .










No number mistaken here the block is clean



sports most its paint

Good score Bobby.......build that thing. I have exactly the same set of heads that I ran on my 302 in the 27 for years. Good breathers, big spark plugs, some consider these to be the best of the oem small block heads of that era. Here is a site that has more info for you.

http://www.raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine3.html

Don

Don did you change the stud mounts to screw in 3/8 s or leave the 5 /15 pressed in , in them .

It had a mild cam so I just ran the stock studs and rockers. The whole engine was pretty tame, but I installed these heads after the car had been on the road for a while and could feel the difference in performance. I was actually going to run them on the new motor but weighed the cost of having a good valve job done on them and decided to go with aluminum ones just because I never had owned any. But the early heads really are pretty good.

Don

Thanks Don for helping with your experience .

Bobby - I ran those heads on a 351W but did change to screw in's. I really is very easy. Pull the studs, run a taper, plug and bottom 7/16" tap carefully down the existing and correctly sized holes, bolt on your stud of choice to match the rockers of choice and you are done with stud pull worry. While you are doing that, look in the exhaust port. If there's an EGR hump, clean it out with a die grinder and burr to level with the port floor, forget about any EGR hole as it will be not a problem as well as doing any fancy port work unless you have a flow bench. The port clean out will make a tiny performance difference as well as help gas mileage a wee bit.

Heads were good heads back in the 70s---guide and seat wear were bad as lead dissappear from gas---you might seriously think about guide liners and hardened exhaust valve seats
I don't do them any more because we can sell alum heads from Dart, Air Flow, Edelbrock etc cheaper

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Heads were good heads back in the 70s---guide and seat wear were bad as lead dissappear from gas---you might seriously think about guide liners and hardened exhaust valve seats
I don't do them any more because we can sell alum heads from Dart, Air Flow, Edelbrock etc cheaper

I will totally agree about the guides - almost make me believe they are made of balsa wood with wear - though I never did have seat problems with the last two sets I used, but probably would have except I used SS valves so heat transfer may have been better then the OEM style

Hey Bobby, my 302 is a '69, too, but as you know, I put the GT40P heads on it. Hopefully someday I'll get it cranked up and see how it runs.

So do you have a car in mind for this engine? You're still putting the 351 in your '37, right?

Randy

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Bobby, my 302 is a '69, too, but as you know, I put the GT40P heads on it. Hopefully someday I'll get it cranked up and see how it runs.

So do you have a car in mind for this engine? You're still putting the 351 in your '37, right?

Randy

Randy yeah the 351 is for the 37 , this is for the 31 tudor much better then the 84 HO engine I had for it .

Originally Posted by IC2

Bobby - I ran those heads on a 351W but did change to screw in's. I really is very easy. Pull the studs, run a taper, plug and bottom 7/16" tap carefully down the existing and correctly sized holes, bolt on your stud of choice to match the rockers of choice and you are done with stud pull worry. While you are doing that, look in the exhaust port. If there's an EGR hump, clean it out with a die grinder and burr to level with the port floor, forget about any EGR hole as it will be not a problem as well as doing any fancy port work unless you have a flow bench. The port clean out will make a tiny performance difference as well as help gas mileage a wee bit.

Dave Thought the valve seats would be the biggest issue . Your stud replacement sounds like a good one .