Thread: Oil consumption on Windsor stroker

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I had another reason in mind when asking about the oil, not just leaking.

I've been running Valvoline 20W50 since the engine was installed at the recommendation of the builder. I know that synthetics can prolong the pre-break in period. I still don't get the underside coating comment (I'm a bit slow in the reading comprehension area).

That was in reference to leaks, which you already answered, so give yourself more credit. The 20w50 mineral oil kills my other thought. If that were blowing by it would show on the plugs.

Has your builder done a leak down test?

Tony, this is strange enough to make me curious

Just my 1-3/4 cents... if your plugs are tan and you’re not seeing a lot of smoke (1 quart per 100 miles would generate noticeable smoke), you’re probably not pulling oil through the cylinders and burning it (through the intake or otherwise). You’ve got to be losing the oil on the exhaust valve side. Sounds like bad valve guide seals or clearance problems on the exhaust side. You said that the pipes were sooty… are both sides equally sooty?

Dan J

Dan, both sides look about the same. Since I burn around 12-15 gallons of gas per 100 miles, a qt of oil in 15 gallons doesn't seem so dense if it's mixed with the fuel and air prior to combustion. Even though my TFS heads had 8,000 miles on them (on my previous engine), they received additional porting, new valve guides and seals, a valve job and new roller rockers. I doubt there is anything wrong in the heads. I will be able to put that theory to rest this weekend when I replace the PCV valve with a breather. This motor's so shiny, I can see a leak from a mile away.

Tony, beautiful engine! I just love a good mystery I hope that you are correct, and that no teardown is required in order to fix the problem. Please let us know if the PVC valve does the fix.

Dan J

Thanks Dan. Will do.

what kind of condition is your intake manifold in and how well is it seated? i had a similar problem with a 302, ended up that my intake manifold had small cracks in it enough to let oil into the cylinders... the reason it only happens on startup and higher RPMs could easily have to do with your oil pump, pumping harder when its at those higher RPMs... the only way i found out that this was the problem on my engine though was that my oil pressure was slowly rising from 60psi to about 120psi in about an hour, which was because water from the radiator was leaking through those cracks as well, but its not always gonna be what happens depending on where the cracks are....

also too much chrome for my liking.... chrome brings engine temp up, and i like to keep mine as cool as possible

thesals, I really don't think it's the intake. It was new when installed. It was hand ported and polished prior to assembly. There isn't any chrome on my motor, just polishing. My engine temp runs at the bottom end of the temp spectrum at all times (160 degrees). I'm running a Griffin aluminum radiator with two 9" pusher fans and a SPAL 16" puller all on a thermostat and Edelbrock high volume water pump. Temp has never been an issue for me.

Incidentally, the saga continues. I removed the PCV valve and did some pretty hard cruising over the weekend. After the ride, I was still further down on the dipstick than I should have been. I also replaced the plugs while marked the old ones for my engine builder to analyze. Though they look good at the electrodes, there is a fair amount of black gunk down in the grooves at the base. A couple of them are particularly gunky compared to the others. I know I'm running a bit rich on my 750 DP Mighty Demon carb, so that could be a contributor. I jacked the car up and spent a couple of hours underneath with shop rags and a can of degreaser. I had significant build up from a leaky rear main seal in my last engine. I got everything shiny and re-inspected it after the test run. No oil leaks anywhere on the engine. After I had a few hundred miles on the engine, I replaced the 20W50, but accidentally purchased the Valvoline Max Life as opposed to the racing formula I normally use. I've wondered ever since if there is anything like a Slick50 additive in Max Life that could have left a low-friction surface on my cylinder walls therefore prohibiting break in. Since I'm running a remote oil filter adapter and external oil cooler, I never get all of the oil out of the system when I replace it. I feel like it's got to be due to the rings not seating.

Streets, sounds easy enough. I'll be scheduling a return trip to my builder's shop tomorrow.

TONY, I had a good 357w in my last hot rod and it burnt oil for over 4000 miles, sold the car (to build a new one) the guy ran it for another 1000 miles or so and the oil problem went away, ur guess is as good as mine to what was wrong........

20w50 might be heavy for a new engine.

JOEE, when I hear yours and similar stories, I gain a sense of relief that there is still hope (other than a removal and break down). I keep saying I'll go another few hundred miles. I guess I'm good for a few more.

There are so many others in my area running similar strokers and they all use 20W50 per the advise of the builder. I seem to be the only one experiencing this prolonged problem. Most of the guys seem to see a virtual end to consumption in 1,000 or so miles. It runs so well, I just hate to mess with it.

Originally posted by Tony Radford
It runs so well, I just hate to mess with it.

I wonder if it might be your valve cover leaking out the back next to the fire wall and directly unto your exhaust? I'm having a simular problem. It is frustrating.

There aren't any engine leaks. I've thoroughly cleaned the underside of the car including the engine compartment, run the engine gard and reinspected for leaks. So far, no leaks.