Thread: Lokar Oil Dipstick

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I recently picked up a Lokar 1220034 dipstick that pushes into the driver's side of the SBF 302 block. I have been told that my pan capacity is 6 quarts including filter, and since my filter is a NAPA 1335 super shorty (only 2" straight side length to clear the motor mount) I'm thinking maybe 5.5 quarts will be "full". My problem - with five quarts of new oil in the pan the level on the Lokar dipstick is more than an inch above their "Full" mark on the crosshatch, well up on the cable (very hard to see new oil on cable!!) The dipstick cable is retained in the handle by an allen head set screw. Is it expected that the dipstick length is to be adjusted to read right? I was told to put in 6 quarts, then verify with the dipstick which is not viable using this dipstick. How do I know the right level without pulling the engine, flipping it over and pulling the pan?

Originally Posted by rspears

I recently picked up a Lokar 1220034 dipstick that pushes into the driver's side of the SBF 302 block. I have been told that my pan capacity is 6 quarts including filter, and since my filter is a NAPA 1335 super shorty (only 2" straight side length to clear the motor mount) I'm thinking maybe 5.5 quarts will be "full". My problem - with five quarts of new oil in the pan the level on the Lokar dipstick is more than an inch above their "Full" mark on the crosshatch, well up on the cable (very hard to see new oil on cable!!) The dipstick cable is retained in the handle by an allen head set screw. Is it expected that the dipstick length is to be adjusted to read right? I was told to put in 6 quarts, then verify with the dipstick which is not viable using this dipstick. How do I know the right level without pulling the engine, flipping it over and pulling the pan?

Correct, adjust the dipstick length to read full for your system...Make sure the filter is also full of oil too.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Correct, adjust the dipstick length to read full for your system...Make sure the filter is also full of oil too.

Thanks, Dave. I'll wait until I spin the pump to prime the engine, then trim the cable to length after everything drains down.

What pan do you have on there that requires 6qts? I thought most factory pans use 5qts.

Originally Posted by randyr

What pan do you have on there that requires 6qts? I thought most factory pans use 5qts.

It's a two sump chrome pan - don't know the maker. I will double check with the builder that provided the pan.

Roger - if it's a chromed original pan as most are, even my SVT rear sump pan, you will only need 5 quarts. I use the short Motorcraft FL 300 and still use the 5 quarts as a wee bit of overfill wont hurt a thing. Oh and historically - Ford dipsticks were seldom accurate, showing about a half quart over filled

I got confirmation from the build shop this morning, it is a five quart pan. They advised to put in five quarts to the dry pan, mark that as the reference level on the stick, then add 1/2 to 3/4 quart for oil galley and internals on initial startup. Seems like a good approach. FYI, my NAPA 1335 filter is about 2/3 the size of the Motorcraft FL300, only 2" on the straight side:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...335_0294380022

An interesting note, I talked to one of the guys from Lokar this morning at the NW Nat's Goodguys, and he says that their dipsticks are supposed to come calibrated to the proper oil level as packaged. They assemble the outer sheath, then use gauges for each of the engine types to set the cable length, securing it into the handle. I explained to him what I had done, and the only explanation was that my dipstick assembly seemed to have been put together using the wrong gauge. I plan to do some measuring when I get home and call the factory to see if I can get to the bottom of it.

Originally Posted by rspears

An interesting note, I talked to one of the guys from Lokar this morning at the NW Nat's Goodguys, and he says that their dipsticks are supposed to come calibrated to the proper oil level as packaged. They assemble the outer sheath, then use gauges for each of the engine types to set the cable length, securing it into the handle. I explained to him what I had done, and the only explanation was that my dipstick assembly seemed to have been put together using the wrong gauge. I plan to do some measuring when I get home and call the factory to see if I can get to the bottom of it.

Roger - I complained to Lokar that my firewall mounted flex trans dip stick assembly drooled. They said that there had been a manufacturing change, to send it back and they would modify it. They didn't!! They just sent a new one. Now I have two funnels and a spare bracket and a non drooling dipstick.

. . . and a non drooling dipstick.

Penicillin works wonders, doesn't it?

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Penicillin works wonders, doesn't it?

Geez Jack, not a clue what you're talking about

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Penicillin works wonders, doesn't it?

Hello, Sailor...

Originally Posted by IC2

Roger - if it's a chromed original pan as most are, even my SVT rear sump pan, you will only need 5 quarts. I use the short Motorcraft FL 300 and still use the 5 quarts as a wee bit of overfill wont hurt a thing. Oh and historically - Ford dipsticks were seldom accurate, showing about a half quart over filled

I pulled the dipstick assembly and called Lokar. They say that the "factory" dimension from the bottom of O-Ring to "Full" is 6.25". Mine, referenced to five quarts in a dry pan is 5.25", and I trimmed 1.75" from the cable (seem to have had some extra length originally). We talked through my process, and Lokar agreed that the advice from Sehr makes perfect sense and should be right. This fits with Dave's observation that stock Ford dipsticks generally show an over filled condition with the proper volume of oil. Lokar will send me a new inner assembly (cable & end) for about $10 if I find I need the length back....

Hey Roger
I had similar problems with a Lokar in my 460, only in that case, the tube diameter wouldn't fit the passthrough hole in the timing chain housing. I sent it back to Summit with no problems. Now I have to buy a Lokar transmition dipstick to clear space for when I mount my headers. Right now the stock tube goes way out into the manifold area. Lokar seems to be one of the few companies out there with aftermarket options. All in all most of their stuff seems pretty darn good, but expensive. My throttle cable/gas pedal assembly costs more than I want to think about, but worked like a charm!

Originally Posted by stovens

Hey Roger
I had similar problems with a Lokar in my 460, only in that case, the tube diameter wouldn't fit the passthrough hole in the timing chain housing. I sent it back to Summit with no problems. Now I have to buy a Lokar transmition dipstick to clear space for when I mount my headers. Right now the stock tube goes way out into the manifold area. Lokar seems to be one of the few companies out there with aftermarket options. All in all most of their stuff seems pretty darn good, but expensive. My throttle cable/gas pedal assembly costs more than I want to think about, but worked like a charm!

Steve, I agree 100%. At this point I have Lokar's oil dipstick, e-brake handle and cable kit, and throttle cable kit. The first throttle cable kit I got had the wrong end prep so I called Lokar and talked to them about it. They told me to order a Chevy LT cable and it would be just right for my SBF/Edelbrock combo. Seems to be true They are indeed expensive, but built right with lots of options.

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve, I agree 100%. At this point I have Lokar's oil dipstick, e-brake handle and cable kit, and throttle cable kit. The first throttle cable kit I got had the wrong end prep so I called Lokar and talked to them about it. They told me to order a Chevy LT cable and it would be just right for my SBF/Edelbrock combo. Seems to be true They are indeed expensive, but built right with lots of options.

Thats pretty fuuny since I had a similar problem with my accelerator linkage having a fitting missing from one end, just a package omission, but the cable wouldn't retract without it.