Thread: world windsor jr and sr heads opinion

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hey every body im wondering what u guys think about world jr and sr head i read mix reviews on them.im just looking for some cheap heads for little over $300 bucks a pair but they are bare.i read that they r better than gt40s im just wanting to do a modest rebuild goal 300 hp at the wheels im starting with a bare 302 block that is 30 over.i sold my last 306 because it had a bad head and the block was cracked.I want to start with heads and go from thereso if u can tell me anything about these heads i will get them ported or a good combo like cam, crank ect.or any other good cheap heads i really dont have a price range but cheap.im saveing for the engine i really want.thanks alot. iknow ther better heads out there but what/ and for that cheap.

When I started putting together the engine for my 27 I considered the World heads, as well as having the early heads I owned reworked. It became apparent that by the time they were done I would be within several hundred dollars of the cost of a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, so that was the way I went. I could not be happier with the Edelbrocks, they seem to really make some good HP, and look great sitting on there. I get a lot of comments on them from onlookers.

I think the World head are ok, but there are just better ones out there for not much more money.

Don

thanks don for reply i thought about the performer heads but i can save about $300 if i get the world heads after i get them worked on and use that money for a cam or some piston im just not try to put alot of money in a motor that wil be changed in about 5 years or so.now i have been looking for some good used performer or trick flow heads for a good prices but i just cant find any in my area or on ebay or craglist so thats why i asked about the world heads cause there cheap

the aluminum heads are well worth an extra 300 bucks .. sorry .. my pics are`nt usually so big

I don't think you'll find a better cylinder head for cheaper than the Edelbrock E-Street heads. Part number 5023 has 1.900" intake valves, while 5025 has 2.020" intake valves. These are 60cc combustion chamber heads.

There is a set on ebay under item number 220720850194 right now for $879.50. The seller does not say whether they are new heads at a blow-out price, used or blems or what, but the normal retail price on a set is about $930. This is for two heads, assembled with seals, valves, springs, retainers and keepers.

There is a set of the larger valve heads, #5025, for sale right now on ebay for $859.95 under item number 370192768837.

We have been asked not to link to ebay because it uses too many electrons or something.

A word of wisdom from an old guy: Never buy anything until you figure out how you're going to sell it. My intuition tells me that aluminum Edelbrocks would be a little more marketable than cast iron World heads. Honestly, I haven't seen anyone talk about using World for several years.

There is also the Patriot head in aluminum for just a little more than the retail on Edelbrocks. Problem I see with them is the intake runner volume, 185 cc's. The Edelbrocks are 170 cc's and would work better on a 302 steet motor. There is such a thing as having too much cylinder head for the application. A good rule of thumb is cubic inches times 0.5 to 0.55 equals intake runner volume in cc's for a decent running street motor, so you can see that the 185's might be a little too big.
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=31&page=1

techinspector 1 i just seen the e street heads on ebay right before i came on here summit has them for 929.95 and i have 100.00 gift card for summit so that works.i was goin to spend about 800.00 on the world head on with geting them bare and geting work done on them and me puting together thanks for the tip on the rule of thumb i woundering on how that went thanks u know a cam and intake i should run maybe carb im starting from a bare 30 over block . should i get them bare and add or just how they come

If it were mine, I'd order the 5023 heads that have slightly smaller intake valves than the 5025 heads. With the smaller valve, you won't have to worry about re-cutting eyebrows into the piston crowns. I'd order 'em assembled. They come with springs that will tolerate 0.550" lift. You won't need that much lift unless you plan to race the car and if you plan to do that, you are looking at the wrong heads. The 5023 heads will work great on a street motor. Take 'em out of the box and bolt 'em on. You'll need 1.6:1 rocker arms for 3/8" studs. A word of caution: USE ONLY THE HEAD GASKET RECOMMENDED BY THE HEAD MANUFACTURER. The wrong gaskets will "Brinell" the aluminum. Google it and read up.

Resist all inclinations to use those fosdick Magnum CompCams roller rockers.
http://www.deezperformance.com/shop/...RockerArms.php
Comp got it bass ackwards. They used an old-school, OEM-style socket and ball arrangement at the trunnion. This "scrubbing" design contributes to high friction (robs horsepower) and high oil temperatures. They should have used roller bearings at the trunnion with a conventional non-roller tip. These rockers are worthless in my opinion. High-speed filming of roller tip rockers by famed cam grinder Racer Brown show the tip skidding across the tip of the valve. They don't roll, they skid because of insufficient mechanical couple. If the roller tips were about 1 1/8 inches or larger in diameter, they might effect a mechanical couple with the valve stem tip and do their job, but those tiny little rollers are a waste of metal and machining.

Use an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold mounting a 600 CFM carb of your choice.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7121/

Use long-tube, equal-length tuned headers, 1 5/8" primary diameter. Construct an "X" pipe after the collectors, before the mufflers. Run 2 1/8" pipes to the rear bumper.

There, you have my opinion.

thankx Tech,,I,too,will file that away,as one day,the faithful little 302w in the truck is gunna need a build,or replacement..Just wasnt sure on the heads..Now I am,ta very much..

Moved to new thread...

As HOSS said, the aluminum heads are worth an extra $300....Here's a re-sized photo if you want to edit your post and remove the H-U-G-E photo.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

As HOSS said, the aluminum heads are worth an extra $300....Here's a re-sized photo if you want to edit your post and remove the H-U-G-E photo.

i`m trying ... i dont know how .. it wont let me edit it away

Check before you order the heads. I bought the E Street heads and had to return them immediately because I found out they are for flat tappet cams only. I then ordered the Performer RPM heads that Edelbrock said would work with my roller cam engine.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Check before you order the heads. I bought the E Street heads and had to return them immediately because I found out they are for flat tappet cams only. I then ordered the Performer RPM heads that Edelbrock said would work with my roller cam engine.

Don

Thanks Don, that's why I raised the question of valve springs on the DynoSim thread.

thanks everbody for your in put im just going to spend more money than i want so this what im going to go with i might go with a different cam and different intake like the performet and may different timeing set i,ll make those decison when i buy everthing so let me know what u think. SBF engine kit; 367 hp / 340 Lb/Ft of Torque with hydraulic flat tappet camshaft (based on 302cid) #2091
POWER PACKAGE TOP-END KIT #2091 367HP/340 LB-FT OF TORQUE INCLUDES:
Part No. Description
7122 Performer RPM Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifters
60229 (2) Performer RPM Cylinder Heads, complete
6991 Timing Cover Gasket and Seal Set
7364 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
7521 RPM Air-Gap 302 Intake Manifold
8524 Intake Manifold Bolt Kit
8552 Cylinder Head Bolt Set
7820 Performer-Link Timing Set