Thread: Today was 'discovery' day (or how to spend my own $$)

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I had a kinda good day today with a couple of aw-w-w-w shucks (or something like that) and made some discoveries

Dumped the oil so I could pull the pan (actually got almost 5 quarts out of it) and decided to install the new filter just to keep drips to a minimum. DAMMIT that WIX 51068 will not fit where the Motorcraft FL-300 last resided. The interchange chart said it did when I bought it, but that extra 7/8 inch......

The transmission has a leak even after last season of only a few drop - and it will continue to leak forever at this point.

My engine 'clunk' that I've worried about - it MAY be as simple as the right header bouncing off the motor mount. There is a spot of Jet Hot coating worn off plus there is a worn surface on the motor mount and to top it off, the thickest feeler gauge leaf that would fit through the gap is .015. Marry that with a lumpy camshaft and that engine will bounce way more then 15 thou at low rpm. I just ordered a pair of Prothane urethane mounts and hope that it will cure that rattlin' clunk. Yeah, probably could clearance the existing ones, but I wanted those motor mounts when the first set failed, but couldn't wait for a couple weeks delay as Summit was out of stock then. This interface is a place I looked last summer, but I had to get my chunky self completely under the car to see how close these two parts were, then pull the header just to be sure. At this late date, I'll probably send the headers out for recoat this coming fall to fix that worn area - it's time for many drives (assuming I have a fix).

Well, it will indeed be a good thing if your "knock" has just been the header banging on the motor mount. So are the Prothane urethane motor mounts thicker, or are you counting on them being stiffer, and stiff enough to keep the engine from bouncing? Maybe some washers between the block and engine mount to lift the block a bit? Might not work, depending on header shape relative to the mount.

I use poly bushings on my diesel conversions, and you have to really put a load on the engines to get those poly bushings to torque. I was pretty surprised. It's a great improvement over the rubber ones for sure. Hopefully this fixes your knock.

So now that it is fixed,maybe you'll make it to one of Roch's cruise nights.

I sure hope that's the noise - and as far as how it was hitting, Roger, it's due to the fact that the actual steel stamped part, US made, is a little too large vs the originals, Korean made, that tore apart. As I said above, probably could pull it off, drag out my grinder and fix it, but really want to use the poly mounts as long as they are the correct configuration as there are two of that vintage and hope my cross referencing was good.

Ryan - I just hope that I don't end up with jarring vibes with the poly

Gary - I'm not that much of a masochist for a drive to Roch. for an evening. Heck, I seldom make the weekly one 4 miles down the road or the big one 10 miles further, but intend to this year

If you're going to remove the headers for re-coat anyway I'd put a little clearance dimple in that area first.

It would be really great if that fixes your problem, Dave-I LOVE it when big problems turn out to not be as bad as we originally thought, especially when you've had the whole Winter to think about how bad it's going to be

I wouldn't wish an Engine rebuild (especially on a low mile Engine) on my worst enemy-maybe you've been a good boy (or are you just lucky?)-at any rate, if this works out, you might be able to still get that Atomic EFI that I know you've been considering-

And now you've got me thinking-I have those Rubber, round biscuit Engine Mounts on the front, and a Poly (Energy Suspension) one on the Tranny-hope that'll work-we'll see-

Bob - one of my big ball pein hammer's rounded end was, within the past hour or so, used as the dimpler with the adjustment force being administered by my much larger 'engineer's hammer (4#, short handled sledge).

Craig - I don't actually need the fancy motor mounts now after my 'adjustment' but I really wanted them, but you along with anyone that has a 'hot rod knows that needs and wants for those toys tend to go hand in hand, dam' the bucks. And if I (hopefully) don't have to do any inside engine work, that new MSD EFI is really starting to look enticing.

Sounds like you got it licked now Dave! So you dimpled the header AND will still use the poly mounts??

Dang, you must REALLY want them!

I'm not pickin' on ya! After all.. I'll be playin' with dual quads soon!
Or maybe EFI next year or...????...???

Who makes the poly mounts for the round rubber replacements used on most of these rods? I'd like to get a set for mine to replace the rubber ones.

34_40 not to steal the thread but I flat out LOVE dual quads

Originally Posted by 34_40

Sounds like you got it licked now Dave! So you dimpled the header AND will still use the poly mounts??

Dang, you must REALLY want them!

I'm not pickin' on ya! After all.. I'll be playin' with dual quads soon!
Or maybe EFI next year or...????...???

Yep REALLY want the poly motor mounts

I would love to run dual quads or tri power or Hillborn w/stacks or Weber's, but my engine's setback wont allow it without some significant firewall surgery

Ryan - this is what I going to be using: Prothane | Polyurethane Bushings and Polyurethane Automotive Performance Products You'll have to download their catalog and let your fingers do some walkin'

Received the motor mounts about 5:00PM and got the one on before supper - lots of room now and probably didn't need to 'clearance' the header. The other will go on tomorrow, but I need to take some photos comparing the two - I'm sure that we'll agree that hefty is a good term to describe those motor mounts when you see the photos.

Some pretty much self explanatory photos:

So is that their 6-501 mount listed for '84-95 Mustangs, Dave? I like the restraint bolts!!