Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

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Well, I got started as planned. Pulled the front clip and yanked the old 352/cruise-o-matic out the front. Scraped & cleaned some crud. Will spray a little paint on the chassis in the morning and prepare to insert the new.... Here are a few pics....


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oh man, yesterday's pics weren't so hot.....looks like one of those time of day/angle of sun situations......oh well, at least there are pics!!

So, today's festivities included cleaning & painting the firewall, front of chassis, and inner fenders...
sorry, another bad pic...





Then I stuffed in the 5.0/AOD for a fitting...





I tested my homemade shifter lever on the trans...


Installed my modified accelerator pedal which will use the Mustang throttle cable...


I also did a test fit on the drive shaft. I picked up one at pickyourpart for a late 80's Crown Vic with 302/AOD. It fits the shortbed F100 perfectly!! YAY!!

Hopefully tomorrow will be more progress.....attaching the Mustang EFI wiring harness to the firewall, finish bolting down engine, attach power steering hoses, etc. Also figuring out the exhaust and finish running the fuel lines....

Nice work R2, it's coming together! Thanks for the pic's also...

Hey guys, how bout an update.....many trials & much drama has ensued since embarking on this journey. I'm well past the "twice as long plus 10%" predictions on time planned for completion but can't stop now.....

I gave up on using the OEM Mustang harness and bought Summit Racing's knockoff of Ford Racing's stand alone EFI harness for 5.0HO. It's clean, sorta simple, keeps the EGR and combines all the relays/fuses into a nice module to put under the dash instead of the fender well. The summit version even uses the Ford racing instruction manual word for word....for $80 less. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...012.01.27).pdf

I had hoped to use this electric fan from a 97 Tbird, which I pre-fit with the old FE engine. But, alas, the 302 motor stands moved the engine 1 inch forward.....there went my fan clearance!


I had to resort to a couple of 12" units. No clearance issues now!


I modified the Mustang air intake bracket to fit my truck...






Here's how she sits now....


and here's my latest dilemma which I hope some of you guys will have some input on...

So, I have the harness installed and powered up but having a couple of problems.....I've even learned how to read the computer codes with my groovy "check engine light".

1. Key start won't crank the starter. I can jump across the solenoid and the starter spins but not with key. I thought it might be the NSS but I bypassed it for a test and it didn't change anything. Any thoughts?

2. I'm using the Mustang starter relay which only has 1 smaller post and the 2 large posts. The old F100 unit had 2 small post ("S" & "I")plus 2 large posts. My instructions for adapting the 3g alternator said I didn't need the "S & I" wires. But do I need a wire from somewhere to the small post on the Mustang relay? Could this be why my starter doesn't engage with the key?

3. only other question I have is related to fuel pressure. I bought the Tanks, Inc. '66 Mustang tank set up for EFI with in-tank pump. Mounted it under the rear of bed. The sales rep told me I needed the #2GPA pump (190ltrs/hr up to 450hp). The pump works but not much pressure at the engine. It's supposed to have somewhere in the 32-39psi range but this is nowhere near that. I'm thinkin' she sold me the wrong pump. Thoughts?

Factory GT pumps are 240 LPH, 30-39 PSI. If your tank takes stock or aftermarket replacement Mustang pumps, just get a Waleboro 240 LPH or 255 LPH.. The 255 LPH is a common upgrade when a pump fails as it does not hurt anything and allows for extra HP if boost is ever part of the equasion

Originally Posted by Matt167

Factory GT pumps are 240 LPH, 30-39 PSI. If your tank takes stock or aftermarket replacement Mustang pumps, just get a Waleboro 240 LPH or 255 LPH.. The 255 LPH is a common upgrade when a pump fails as it does not hurt anything and allows for extra HP if boost is ever part of the equasion

Hey Matt, thanks for the info!! I'll discuss that with Tanks, Inc in the morning. They use Walbro pumps but they sold me the wrong one for this engine. It's brand new so hopefully they'll exchange it and make it right.

I haven't messed with one of these harnesses for years Randy, but common sense would say you'll need a wire from the "start" post on the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the solenoid-----I don't know what else they would be using to energize the solenoid...

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I haven't messed with one of these harnesses for years Randy, but common sense would say you'll need a wire from the "start" post on the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the solenoid-----I don't know what else they would be using to energize the solenoid...

I agree. The small post on your solenoid is where your "start" lead lands from the ignition switch, and it's completing the circuit via chassis ground to the fender well.

Thanks, guys, that makes sense to me, too, (which is amazing since I'm a wiring idiot!!). So, it should connect to a "start only" wire on the ignition switch? Would the original Ford wire that was connected to the "S" on the original starter relay work for this?

Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks, guys, that makes sense to me, too, (which is amazing since I'm a wiring idiot!!). So, it should connect to a "start only" wire on the ignition switch? Would the original Ford wire that was connected to the "S" on the original starter relay work for this?

Yes, that's the wire you want, the one that was landing on the "S" (start) terminal before.

That ground that Roger mentioned is critical for the start circuit. Some years ago we had an early '90s Ford PU in the shop for some front repair. The tech had removed the grille, lights, bumper and such. They were ready to move it to the paint shop but it wouldn't start. I have no knowledge of the Ford system, but when I walked over to look at it I saw a ground lug on the headlight wiring loom just hanging out in mid air. I suggested they reconnect that ground and see what happens. Fired right up! Why the ground was in that part of the wiring I have no idea......

Somehow I missed this thread, good going Randy man, I like it. But yes, it won't be done til the stance is right..............

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

That ground that Roger mentioned is critical for the start circuit. Some years ago we had an early '90s Ford PU in the shop for some front repair. The tech had removed the grille, lights, bumper and such. They were ready to move it to the paint shop but it wouldn't start. I have no knowledge of the Ford system, but when I walked over to look at it I saw a ground lug on the headlight wiring loom just hanging out in mid air. I suggested they reconnect that ground and see what happens. Fired right up! Why the ground was in that part of the wiring I have no idea......

Somehow I missed this thread, good going Randy man, I like it. But yes, it won't be done til the stance is right..............

Holy crap! This site is slow this morning!!! I just typed a whole response that was lost while "waiting for clubhotrod" ARGH!!!

Anyway, there is a red/blue wire on the ignition switch in the original F100 harness that runs thru the neutral safety switch at lower end of steering column then out to
the "S" terminal on the original starter relay. I suspect if I attach it to the single post on this Mustang relay "magic" will happen......

One of the problems with lowering the truck, Bob, is deciding which way to go....there are some cool options like the Dodge Dakota kit, beefier Mustang II types, '03-11 Crown Vic, Jaguar XJ6, etc, but the easiest and fastest would be the DJM Dream Beams/rear hanger & shackle kit. It's a 3" front/4" rear drop that's all bolt in. Sure, it's old technology but it would be reversible if needed. But lowering means new tires. Mine are too big for lowering. I always say, "one thing leads to a thousand more...." It's all just time & money, right??

Just got off the phone with Justin at Tanks, Inc. After describing my dilemma, he's sending the 255 LPH fuel pump to exchange for the 190. Yay! That's 3 or 4 more days without a truck though....

Thanks again for all the help guys!!!

Looks good Randy, dropping it will make it all look better.

Randy awesome work! I don't know how I missed this thread. If we ever get around to it, we're putting a 5.0 from a 91 Grand Marquis in my Mom's 68 Mustang. I purchased a Painless wiring kit for it because I didn't want to mess with the nasty oily OE one from the donor car. I'm hoping the bracketry for the front will fit in the Mustang. It should. Anyway, it's looking really nice! Keep at it!

Well, guess what? I connected the red/blue wire to the small post on the starter relay and voila!! She cranks with the key!!!

So here's another question for ya.....the 255LPH fuel pump will be here tomorrow. In the meantime, Justin at Tanks, Inc. said he thought the engine should start & run at idle even with the 190LPH pump, however, I have had no luck with that. I have fire to the coil, distrib & plugs. There is gas in the gas lines but it has no pressure to speak of.

I put a new EGR valve (computer said I needed one) and a new fuel pressure regulator (figured I might as well change it too).

Do you think the fuel system is just not creating enough pressure with the lower volume pump to let it start and run or do you think there are other things I need to check?

Also, I went to all the trouble to transfer the charcoal canister from the Mustang complete with the purge solenoid. Now that I'm using the aftermarket wiring harness, there is no connection for the purge solenoid. Since I already have the line from the tank to the canister, I thought I'd just remove the purge solenoid and use the canister as my tank vent. Will that work or should I just get rid of it?