Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

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I agree with Justin. The difference between the two pumps is volume capacity, not a pressure difference. It should start and run OK with the lower volume pump, but might stumble at WOT on a sustained high rpm run. Can you hear the pump running for sure? If so, it sounds like you've got something blocking flow. Maybe an old in-line filter? Have you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? That's one of the first things I'd add, just to know what pressure you're getting and eliminate the unknown. You can pick up a little 0-60psi liquid filled gauge for about $20.

Originally Posted by rspears

I agree with Justin. The difference between the two pumps is volume capacity, not a pressure difference. It should start and run OK with the lower volume pump, but might stumble at WOT on a sustained high rpm run. Can you hear the pump running for sure? If so, it sounds like you've got something blocking flow. Maybe an old in-line filter? Have you put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? That's one of the first things I'd add, just to know what pressure you're getting and eliminate the unknown. You can pick up a little 0-60psi liquid filled gauge for about $20.

Roger, the fuel filter is new, pressure regulator is new, fuel lines are stock Mustang. I tried using a tire pressure gauge on the release valve on the fuel line (looks like a valve stem) but it didn't register on that. I'll double check the lines, etc tomorrow and see if there's a restriction somewhere....

regular cars and trucks with the 5.0L got 190 LPH pumps, GT's got the 240 LPH and the upgrade is the 255 LPH. They all run on 30-39 PSI so your good there. It should start and run fine if you have at least 30 PSI with 190 LPH..

As far as the canister, you can plumb it to an old vac solenoid. Some car from the 80's is probably a good source. They just open at cruise using the vac signal. It's how the canisters used to work before electronics took over

Originally Posted by Matt167

As far as the canister, you can plumb it to an old vac solenoid. Some car from the 80's is probably a good source. They just open at cruise using the vac signal. It's how the canisters used to work before electronics took over

Thanks Matt! Good idea! So, probably any pre-EFI Ford with a canister will have the vac solenoid?

Originally Posted by randyr

Roger, the fuel filter is new, pressure regulator is new, fuel lines are stock Mustang. I tried using a tire pressure gauge on the release valve on the fuel line (looks like a valve stem) but it didn't register on that. I'll double check the lines, etc tomorrow and see if there's a restriction somewhere....

Do you know for sure that the pump is running for five seconds when you turn the key "ON"? We chased a no-start condition on a buddy's Deuce coupe all afternoon in a hotel parking lot, only to finally find that he had hidden a pair of OEM master fuses behind the dash panel 25 years ago. The fuel pump fuse was blown, and every time we pressed the schrader valve on the fuel rail we were just bleeding a tiny spray of residual pressure from the last time it ran. We (three of us) all swore that we had heard the pump running, but we were all wrong....

yes, Roger, when I turn the key I watch the light on the fuel pump relay click on for 5 sec, then off. I've also checked it back at the tank and hear the pump come on. I suppose there's a chance I could have done something stupid like hook up the fuel filter backwards or something.....but geez, I hope not!! That would be embarassing!!!

Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks Matt! Good idea! So, probably any pre-EFI Ford with a canister will have the vac solenoid?

I think so. I just did a quick rockauto search. 1982 Ford Granada with 200 I6 brings up some that look like they will work Bout $10 each. I'v never actually had to replace one of these ( seen quite a few ) but it should do just what you need.
1982 FORD GRANADA Vapor Canister Purge Valve.

Originally Posted by Matt167

I think so. I just did a quick rockauto search. 1982 Ford Granada with 200 I6 brings up some that look like they will work Bout $10 each. I'v never actually had to replace one of these ( seen quite a few ) but it should do just what you need.
1982 FORD GRANADA Vapor Canister Purge Valve.

That valve has 3 hose connections. Where would they hook up? Current canister has 2, one hose from tank and one hose to intake with in-line electrical purge solenoid.....

Originally Posted by randyr

That valve has 3 hose connections. Where would they hook up? Current canister has 2, one hose from tank and one hose to intake with in-line electrical purge solenoid.....

it goes in line with the evap line that normally runs to the intake. So it has an evap in and an evap out port. It replaces the electrical purge solenoid which should have 2 hoses coming out of it

Got a fuel presser tester gauge this morning. I have 35+PSI at the shrader valve, so apparently fuel pressure is not the issue. Engine turns over fine but doesn't make any real effort to start. I have a full 12V to the coil but only about 9V at the dist end of the coil wire. Does that mean the coil is bad or too weak to start the engine?
Thoughts??

It seems to me that you need to eliminate the resistance wire.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

It seems to me that you need to eliminate the resistance wire.

If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.

Originally Posted by randyr

If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.

No, that's what I was thinking, but I'm pretty sure you need 12v to the coil and it appears that you're dropping it somewhere.

Originally Posted by randyr

If you mean the resistance wire from the ignition I eliminated that a long time ago when I installed pertronix on the old engine. Please tell me if you mean something else.

Yes, I have full 12V to the coil. It drops to about 9V from coil to distrib.

I've tested the coil per these instructions I found on Stangnet:
to test the coil;

get an Ohm meter and

check primary resistance between Pos and Neg terminals on the coil
resistance should be 0.3 - 1.0 ohms

check secondary resistance between Pos term and coil wire terminal
resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms

repeat secondary resistance test between Neg terminal and coil wire terminal
resistance should be 8000 - 11500 ohms

check resistance to each terminal and gound(coil case)
resistance should be infinity

But my readings all come out less than these....e.g. secondary resistance on both pos & neg terminal are at 7000ohms or less and the primary resistance is at 0. There is a spark from the coil to the distributor but it's not a "fat blue spark" like some say it's supposed to be....

Those readings will be off some using a digital or VTM, the true readings will be with a VTVM. Are you using the Petronix coil?