Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

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perhaps a silly question but.... you didn't install the coil backwards didja? We've all done it!

Just one of my usual questions, Randy. Do you have a good ground from the engine to the chassis, battery to chassis, ECM ground to chassis, etc.??? EFI systems and computer controlled cars must have a good ground!!!!

Actually sounds like a weak coil, I'm certainly not claiming any expertise on electronically controlled engines, still a neophyte on them but I have learned that good grounds are essential.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Those readings will be off some using a digital or VTM, the true readings will be with a VTVM. Are you using the Petronix coil?

It's the stock '92 Mustang coil. I'm using one of those pocket circuit testers with the little probes and the sweep needle. My checks have been both with volts & ohms....

Originally Posted by 34_40

perhaps a silly question but.... you didn't install the coil backwards didja? We've all done it!

I'm certainly capable of a backwards install, Mike but this time the coil plug only goes on one way.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Just one of my usual questions, Randy. Do you have a good ground from the engine to the chassis, battery to chassis, ECM ground to chassis, etc.??? EFI systems and computer controlled cars must have a good ground!!!!

Actually sounds like a weak coil, I'm certainly not claiming any expertise on electronically controlled engines, still a neophyte on them but I have learned that good grounds are essential.

Yes, Dave, I've checked all those grounds and they seem to be good. Perhaps I should spring for a new coil and see if problem is solved.....not sure what else to do at this point.....

Thanks for the input, guys!!!! Always MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!

Originally Posted by randyr

Yes, Dave, I've checked all those grounds and they seem to be good. Perhaps I should spring for a new coil and see if problem is solved.....not sure what else to do at this point.....

Well, it's not my checkbook, but that would seem to be the place to start, Randy! Wish you lived a bit closer, I'd pull the one off my 5.0 and let you try it!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, it's not my checkbook, but that would seem to be the place to start, Randy! Wish you lived a bit closer, I'd pull the one off my 5.0 and let you try it!

Well, if I throw enough money at it, it will eventually run, right???

I guess if we had 2000 miles of coil wire we could test it off of yours.....

I've got a Mallory that you can try but I'm sure time is becoming critical and shipping will be slow...

Originally Posted by randyr

Well, if I throw enough money at it, it will eventually run, right???

I guess if we had 2000 miles of coil wire we could test it off of yours.....

LMAO! I keep thinking the same thing on all of my projects. Maybe if I throw money on the hoods, they'll run?

It may be the TFI coil. Known to go bad and cause a no start. '92 Mustangs did use that system. IIRC it is attached to the distributor but it has been a while.

Originally Posted by Matt167

It may be the TFI coil. Known to go bad and cause a no start. '92 Mustangs did use that system. IIRC it is attached to the distributor but it has been a while.

Funny that you mention that, Matt....I was just googling that!

Well, fellas, I've got a shiny new coil but still a no start!

I still have weak spark at the distributor. I've been googling my butt off and scouring over tons of Mustang forums & threads and it seems "highly possible" that my TFI module (bolts to dizzy) may be bad.....looks like I'll probably be throwing some more money at it tomorrow.....

Perhaps I'll attempt some of these tests on my TFI before I run out and buy one....
How to Solve an EFI No Start

Originally Posted by randyr

Perhaps I'll attempt some of these tests on my TFI before I run out and buy one....
How to Solve an EFI No Start

Randy,
I totally forgot that you were using the stock Mustang electronics. The module on the side of the distributor is almost certainly the culprit, and they can go out in a heartbeat. I suspect that you've found your culprit. One tip - there's a "special tool" that's really just a very thin walled socket with a t-handle to get the two retaining screws loose that hold it in place. It's worth the six or seven bucks, or you'll be grinding down a socket. And don't forget the di-electric paste when you put the new one on, or the new module will have a short life.

Originally Posted by rspears

Randy,
I totally forgot that you were using the stock Mustang electronics. The module on the side of the distributor is almost certainly the culprit, and they can go out in a heartbeat. I suspect that you've found your culprit. One tip - there's a "special tool" that's really just a very thin walled socket with a t-handle to get the two retaining screws loose that hold it in place. It's worth the six or seven bucks, or you'll be grinding down a socket. And don't forget the di-electric paste when you put the new one on, or the new module will have a short life.

Thanks, Roger! Sounds like a likely culprit to me, too!! I've also read about the "tool". Looks like the TFI module comes in a wide range of prices and some suggest replacing the PIP, too. I've even seen rebuilt distributors for the price of some of these separate parts.......obviously, the idea of a "budget swap" went out the window a while back!!

Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks, Roger! Sounds like a likely culprit to me, too!! I've also read about the "tool". Looks like the TFI module comes in a wide range of prices and some suggest replacing the PIP, too. I've even seen rebuilt distributors for the price of some of these separate parts.......obviously, the idea of a "budget swap" went out the window a while back!!

Yeah, I was going to suggest you look at swapping out the distributor as a unit, but knew you'd be looking at that option, too. Who knows, you might find one of the auto box stores that offers a lifetime warranty?

My only real experience with Thick Film Ignition (TFI) was with a friends pickup truck, that thing seemed to just eat the module on the side of the dizzy. He changed so many of them he kept one in the glove box! One night we were headed home when the truck just died.. we popped the hood and I had him turn it over while I watched for spark at a plug wire. There wasn't any but I did see something spark where it shouldn't have! Turns out one of the injector wires had rubbed bare against the fuel rail! We taped it up and the truck never "ate" another module.. So any short under the hood seemingly will take out that module. Keep that in mind when working with the wiring and maybe disconnect the module first to protect it.