Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

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Originally Posted by randyr

Ok, I just read on a Mustang site that the fuel needs to go directly to the injectors first and then pass thru the FPR on it's way to the return line. I'll switch the lines back the way I had them before....

Randy,
Sorry, I've been away from the discussion. Yes, the FPR modulates to control the amount of fuel returned to the tank, keeping the fuel rail pressure within control range. Fuel feeds the rail first, and the regulator is on the end of the rail where the return line connects.

Originally Posted by rspears

Randy,
Sorry, I've been away from the discussion. Yes, the FPR modulates to control the amount of fuel returned to the tank, keeping the fuel rail pressure within control range. Fuel feeds the rail first, and the regulator is on the end of the rail where the return line connects.

is it possible to have a faulty or blocked shrader valve? I appear to have good pressure up to the line connection below the shrader valve. Tomorrow I'll pull the section of line with the shrader and test it for blockage, etc. Beyond that, I'm kinda clueless at this point....

Originally Posted by randyr

is it possible to have a faulty or blocked shrader valve? I appear to have good pressure up to the line connection below the shrader valve. Tomorrow I'll pull the section of line with the shrader and test it for blockage, etc. Beyond that, I'm kinda clueless at this point....

I can't see how a schrader valve can block. They are just a form of valve port like your tire uses for air welded on the outer diameter of the fuel rail. When is the last time this engine ran? Did you hear it run before you bought the wrecked car? My son's Mustang had been sitting for a year or more, and we went through much of the same trying to get his going. Turned out that every injector was clogged with microscopic particles of rubber that the ethanol had attacked in the injectors themselves (and the in tank pump, too). He bought a rebuild kit and took them apart, carefully cleaned everything and reassembled them. Started on the first crank.

randy have you put a noid light on injector wire to see it you have power....ted

Originally Posted by rspears

I can't see how a schrader valve can block. They are just a form of valve port like your tire uses for air welded on the outer diameter of the fuel rail. When is the last time this engine ran? Did you hear it run before you bought the wrecked car? My son's Mustang had been sitting for a year or more, and we went through much of the same trying to get his going. Turned out that every injector was clogged with microscopic particles of rubber that the ethanol had attacked in the injectors themselves (and the in tank pump, too). He bought a rebuild kit and took them apart, carefully cleaned everything and reassembled them. Started on the first crank.

Thanks, Roger! It's been at least 10 months since the engine ran. When detailing the parts, I soaked the injectors in carb cleaner for a few days but had no way to really test them at the time. I installed new o-rings, end caps, etc, then masked them off and painted the "tan" portion silver. I suppose it's possible they could be clogged but I'm still surprised why my gauge shows no pressure at the shrader valve after changing the fuel pump when I seem to have great pressure to the connection just below it. Perhaps my gauge is faulty.

At any rate, I'm going to go thru those "no start" tests in the link I posted early to try to narrow down the problem. It's at this point that some would hang a "For Sale" sign on it.....but not me!!!!

Thanks so much for all your help!!!! and the rest of you guys, too!!!

Originally Posted by ted dehaan

randy have you put a noid light on injector wire to see it you have power....ted

Thanks, Ted! That will be one of the tests I'll perform today....that's a good name for that light cause I'm totally "a-noid"!!!!!

Randy,
Here's a good writeup on what it takes to clean injectors - Fuel Injection Technical Library » Fuel Injector Cleaning That little screen filter in the top is what gets plugged easily, as it's a very fine mesh and can "gunk up" sitting idle. You can buy a "kit" off of EvilBay for around $25 - maybe cheaper if you shop. Not sure what the local box stores charge -http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2054436.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=ford+injector+rebuild+kit&_sacat=0&_from=R40 One of the keys, as I understand, is to energize the injector momentarily while blowing back through it with the filter removed. You don't want to keep it energized too long, as they are made for pulse operation, and you'll burn out coils with a sustained voltage and no flow.

What type of gauge are you using? One like a tire pressure gauge using the schrader valve?

Thanks, Roger! That's a good write up. Here's a simple little video for cleaning them, too. cleaning fuel injectors yourself - YouTube Perhaps a little redneck but, hey, if it works.....

I bought a fuel injection pressure tester kit the other day at Oreilly. That's what I'm using on the shrader. As previously stated, with the other fuel pump it showed 35psi. Now it shows nothing.

If you press on the schrader to relieve pressure (rag to protect face) is there any residual pressure in the system? Just thinking if you had enough "gunk" maybe it plugged the schrader, or the tube on your gauge? Grasping at straws here....

Originally Posted by rspears

If you press on the schrader to relieve pressure (rag to protect face) is there any residual pressure in the system? Just thinking if you had enough "gunk" maybe it plugged the schrader, or the tube on your gauge? Grasping at straws here....

Yes, I'm quite familiar with those "straws" at the point!! Not sure where the gunk would have come from, the fuel spewing out of the line just below is clean, but pressing on the shrader does nothing but dribble a tiny bit of fuel. Weird!

I'm going to check it out now....

That video mentions if the injectors are open there'll be no pressure.. could yours be energized right now? If so, check the cylinders for gas!

Ok, the injectors are pulsing, there is fuel, there is fire but.....

Just to be sure my injectors were clean & working, I pulled the intake again and removed the fuel rails and injectors. Based on the little video in a previous post I devised my own little redneck cleaning & testing process....

Went to the parts store and bought some 5/16" vacuum caps, carb cleaner & little audio-sized wire connectors since I didn't have an extra injector connector laying around. I used the pin to puncture the top and the vacuum cap and inserted the red tube from the carb cleaner.

I attached a couple of connectors to a couple of wires and slid them on the terminals of the injector.


The injectors only require 5volts. I had an old battery charger with a 6volt setting so I used it...


I attached the red tube to the carb spray while touching the red wire to the hot wire on the charger....(I already had the other wire clamped to black) Oh, I had to use a hose clamp on the rubber cause the pressure from the carb cleaner blew it across the garage...


It worked like a charm. After several blasts the injectors were spraying clean & strong.

I reassembled everything......and nothing has changed.

I loosened the hold down bolt and rotate the distrib with the key on. As it rotates the fuel pump primes and the pressure gauge jumps to 45psi, then back to zero.

Originally Posted by randyr

.....I reassembled everything......and nothing has changed.

I loosened the hold down bolt and rotate the distrib with the key on. As it rotates the fuel pump primes and the pressure gauge jumps to 45psi, then back to zero.

That's a very neat cleaning/testing rig you came up with! I had a thought about the fuel rail - with it off and the FPR removed have you blown air through it to ensure it's not plugged?

The timing advance step proves that the pump primes and comes up to pressure, but that going back to zero makes me wonder if your fuel pressure regulator may be bad, or that you might have an injector stuck open but you proved they cycle? On my '33 the pump comes on, primes the system, and then the system holds pressure for quite a long time with the engine not running. Sounds to me like your's is letting the pressure bleed back to the tank. Sure would be nice to be able to swap one from a known good engine for a test, but you can get one for less than $20, or less than $50 for MotorCraft. Hate to throw parts at something, but this one seems to be pointing to a problem?

Originally Posted by rspears

That's a very neat cleaning/testing rig you came up with! I had a thought about the fuel rail - with it off and the FPR removed have you blown air through it to ensure it's not plugged?

The timing advance step proves that the pump primes and comes up to pressure, but that going back to zero makes me wonder if your fuel pressure regulator may be bad, or that you might have an injector stuck open but you proved they cycle? On my '33 the pump comes on, primes the system, and then the system holds pressure for quite a long time with the engine not running. Sounds to me like your's is letting the pressure bleed back to the tank. Sure would be nice to be able to swap one from a known good engine for a test, but you can get one for less than $20, or less than $50 for MotorCraft. Hate to throw parts at something, but this one seems to be pointing to a problem?

Thanks for the comments on the cleaning/testing rig. It's not perfect but it worked. Those carb cleaner cans really crank out some pressure and those rubber vacuum caps weren't really designed for solvents so it takes more than one to get the job done.
Yes, I made sure the fuel rails were clean while I had it out. I cleaned them before I put it together the first time but it seems I have to do everything at least twice!! Argh!

As for the FPR, I put a new one on the other day. Is it possible that I screwed it up when I reversed the fuel lines for a bit on Saturday?

So, far, with all these efforts, it still just turns over with no attempt to start.....I just don't get it!

Originally Posted by randyr

....As for the FPR, I put a new one on the other day. Is it possible that I screwed it up when I reversed the fuel lines for a bit on Saturday?

So, far, with all these efforts, it still just turns over with no attempt to start.....I just don't get it!

I wouldn't think back pressure would hurt the FPR. We're overlooking something basic, but I have no idea what at this point. You've verified good spark during crank, not just ignition power when "ON", right?