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05-20-2013 07:29 AM #91
Just a thought, is your gas cap vented? If so wouldn't that not allow the system to pressurize?Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-20-2013 07:53 AM #92
Yes, it's supposed to be a fat blue spark at the distributor according to what I've read. I'm not sure how "fat" is fat but I do have blue spark at distributor when cranking.
The tank is vented thru a charcoal canister. The cap is a "push thru" type but it seals when closed.
I just got off the phone with Justin at Tanks, Inc. regarding the fuel pressure issue. He suggested (easiest to hardest) swapping the FPR, making sure constant voltage to the pump, then if all else fails, drop the tank to make sure the pump installation was correct. If the clamps on the fuel pump line in the tank aren't tight enough, it could be losing pressure there.
So, I'm planning a way to put my pressure gauge where the fuel line disconnects at the frame rail. That will keep the FPR out of that reading. If that pressure is constant, I think the pump installation should be good. Will let you know if that works...."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-20-2013 10:57 PM #93
Ok, gents, IT RUNS!!!!!!!!
So, here's some of the day's drama.....spoke with Justin at Tanks, Inc again because I couldn't get a consistent fuel pressure reading. He thought it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator or maybe I didn't get the clamps tight enough on the fuel pump install. Argh! I dropped the tank again and checked the clamps just to be sure. They're tight for sure now!
Then I talked to the tech guy at Ford Racing....extremely helpful guy! He said if you have power, fuel & air, it will start!!! He encouraged me to check the timing again. I decided to put my compression gauge in the #1 plug hole just to make sure I had TDC on the compression stroke. Of course, you know where I'm going with this.... I was 180 degrees off. After I restabbed the distributor I got my neighbor out there to crank the key while I played with the timing light & distributor. While twisting on the dizzy, it fired up!!! and continued to run!!!! After some more tweaking, adding more trans fluid and cleaning up some mess, I took it for a spin!!!! It sounds healthy. I'm soooo stoked!!
Will snap some more pics tomorrow! Thanks for all your help!!!!!Last edited by randyr; 05-20-2013 at 11:50 PM.
"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-21-2013 05:24 AM #94
hooray!!!
Last edited by rspears; 05-21-2013 at 05:26 AM.
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05-21-2013 07:10 AM #95
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05-21-2013 08:18 AM #96
.....................:dYour Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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05-21-2013 09:21 AM #97
Way to go Randy, yes we will need pics...!Toys
`37 Ford Coupe
`64 Chevy Fleet side
`69 RS/SS
`68 Dodge Dart
Kids in the back seat may cause accidents, accidents in the back seat may cause kids, so no back seat, no accidents...!
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05-21-2013 10:03 AM #98
I know your feeling well. Glad it was so simple a fix.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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05-21-2013 01:58 PM #99
Does the distributor explain away the erratic fuel pressure readings?.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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05-21-2013 04:01 PM #100
To be honest, I don't know. The "new" distributor I bought was actually a $100 Chinese knock off complete with new TFI & PIP. It was in the truck when it finally started but it had a weird wobble to it.....not loose in the hole but like it had a bent shaft or something.
I jerked it out of there and put my Motorcraft unit back in. It's solid and works great. If only I had rechecked the timing issues a week ago I probably would not have needed a new coil either..... I'm sure I can get a refund on the chinese distributor but the coil is mine to keep. That's ok. It's a Standard Blue Streak made in the USA and matches my engine....and really, isn't that what matters most???
As for the erratic fuel pressure, I gave up and took the test gauge off before it started and haven't put it back on since. Perhaps, the gauge is bad cause the truck now has no problem starting every time......YAY!!!"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-21-2013 05:47 PM #101
Yeah, back when I was considerably younger I subscribed to the philosophy that most unidentified "noises" were best addressed by turning the radio up louder In a lot of cases it worked, too! Kinda like getting that troublesome gauge out of there so it doesn't cause any more problems.Last edited by rspears; 05-21-2013 at 06:04 PM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-21-2013 07:45 PM #102
When you are comnecting to a schrader valve, you need a compatible coupling that will compress/open the valve or you won't get any reading----
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05-22-2013 12:39 AM #103
I'm using an actual fuel injection pressure test kit that included the adapter for the Ford shrader valve. I haven't tried it since the truck started but prior to that, it would show around 42psi when cranking but immediately go back to zero when the cranking stopped."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-22-2013 08:17 AM #104
Believe your guages(if you know they work) if your guage showed pressure while cranking and zero when you stopped cranking, you had pressure while cranking-------------
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05-22-2013 09:39 AM #105
"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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