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Thread: New alternator and good battery but low voltage
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10-10-2018 11:13 PM #1
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1947 Ford Coupe
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New alternator and good battery but low voltage
Hello,This is a stock 1980s 305 SBC engine, suddenly I started having this problem with my battery voltage gauge where it would be at 14 volts when I first start the engine and then it would start to drop to about 12v and below while still idling and with no load. I checked the alternator belt tension, tested the voltage to the battery with the engine off and I was getting about 12+v, then I tested the battery with the engine running and nothing else turned on and the voltage was about 11.5v. The fact that the battery voltage was lower with the engine running led me to believe that the problem was the alternator not charging. So I recharged the battery overnight and bought a brand new 100 amp alternator and now when I started the engine the battery gauge was only showing 11 volts. The engine did cranked right up but it appeared that the alternator was not doing anything and revving the engine made no difference. Battery has new posts and secured connections. Could someone please help? Thanks in advance for your inputs!
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10-11-2018 08:34 AM #2
Check the wire between the alternator and starter/fuse box for a blown fusible link or fuse.
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10-11-2018 11:31 AM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
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- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Also check to see if your internal regulator is getting power. It is a 2 wire plug on the side of the rear case of the alternator. Usually you can see it looking at the engine but sometimes they can be on the side where you can't see them as easy.
.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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10-11-2018 02:55 PM #4
Sounds like the two - prong plug to the alternator is bad to me..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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10-11-2018 04:09 PM #5
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I will check on those wires if it ever stops raining around here and will post an update. Thanks!
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10-11-2018 05:08 PM #6
Also make sure your ground is nice and tight to bright shinny metal."Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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10-11-2018 07:18 PM #7
Don't check them. They can look perfectly OK and still be bad. Just pick up a new plug and splice it in, preferably soldered and shrink wrapped.
I just fought that exact situation recently..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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10-12-2018 07:48 AM #8
Do you have an underdrive size pulley to gain 2 or 3 hp? Under drive pulleys and poor grounds are causes of most DIY repaits that came thru our shop--------also cheap overseas reman parts-------
what do you mean about the battery has NEW POSTS?
is your guage a dash gauge or a hand held mechanics tool?
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10-12-2018 08:37 AM #9
run a jumper to the 2 spade plug on the alt. both need to be hot.
if your getting the alt from orilley or autozone it can be junk .
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10-12-2018 04:30 PM #10
Run a jumper from the alt. case to battery ground see if that changes the output I have run into this problem a few times where the alt. case does'nt have a good groundI'LL KEEP MY PROPERTY, MY MONEY, MY FREEDOM, AND MY GUNS, AND YOU CAN KEEP THE CHANGE------ THE PROBLEM WITH LIBERALISM IS SOONER OR LATER YOU RUN OUT OF OTHER PEOPLES MONEY margaret thacher 1984
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10-13-2018 05:22 PM #11
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Problem solved. A fusible link had split the connection between the 10g alternator wire and the junction point. Thank you all for your help!
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