Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build

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at least it won't rust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Roger ...Been there done that. that shoulda woulda coulda thing will beat you up.. There is a way to fix the water spot. Just think of all the knowledge your gaining

Originally Posted by cffisher

Roger ...Been there done that. that shoulda woulda coulda thing will beat you up.. There is a way to fix the water spot. Just think of all the knowledge your gaining

Yeah, I should have left it alone, but based on my earlier success I worked on it with some 800 grit & wax & grease remover. Worked great on the flat body, but then I tried to get the massive drip out of the molding and sanded through the base so now I'm going to be talking my paint guy about the best way to accomplish a spot repair, given my base approach. With the holiday that will be tomorrow.... Like I said, these lessons learned are killing me....

Experience can be a cruel teacher! That's crazy - with that beautiful booth you created you also get a roof leak.... Sounds like Mr. Murphy was at work today!

you now why most all the painters / body man drink

Originally Posted by 34_40

Experience can be a cruel teacher! That's crazy - with that beautiful booth you created you also get a roof leak.... Sounds like Mr. Murphy was at work today!

Yeah, Murph was watching over my shoulder, I'd agree. I told my wife I surely wish I'd of gone back out last night after the kids headed home, but I was bone tired after three or four hours in that sweat booth - soaking wet from head to toe, so much that my boots were doing the "squish squish" of wet socks slipping on leather

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

you now why most all the painters / body man drink

Had to laugh, Pat, because I'd just come in from a mowing session, opened a Blue Moon Ale, and your post was the first I saw

I took some time this afternoon to troubleshoot the tractor/mower and finally found a loose ground that was giving me all kinds of fits, and once fixed the mower was doing much better so I went out to attack some of the hay field that's supposed to be yard. I came to the realization that I've let this paint job become too much of a priority to the point that I've ignored things that I should be working on, and the car's no longer a fun project. So, while I'm still focused on getting done as soon as is practical, getting the car painted and re-assembled will not be my single priority any longer. I'll spend some time working on the mowing I've ignored, will get to more of my grandson's ball games, take time to go to lunch with my boys, and generally try to focus on the little things a bit more. It'll get done when it gets done, and that will be just fine.

Originally Posted by rspears

I'll spend some time working on the mowing I've ignored, will get to more of my grandson's ball games, take time to go to lunch with my boys, and generally try to focus on the little things a bit more. It'll get done when it gets done, and that will be just fine.

I'm proud of you! That is the secret to success and a much more enjoyable life!

There ya go Roger....Building Hot Rods is far too much fun to be taken seriously!!!!

Sometimes it's best to just back off and enjoy the process!

Life will be better when you can drive the new car to lunch with your boys.. Ha!
You are close now, as Larry would say "Get'er done!".

Naw, kidding, Enjoy the process as it comes!

Your build is looking great and I am sure of your success!

If you've not been there before, sanding through the clear is not a good thing to have happen, as laying base atop clear will lift the edges of the clear around your sanding flaw. Sometimes the answer may be to sand off the panel to edges and start over (like on a door or hood or fender), but another way is to dust on two or three coats of a blending clear to "seal" those edges, then once that's fully dry lay on a couple of coats of base to cover your flaw, lightly sand away any over spray from the surrounding area, and proceed with the next coat of clear.
My plan had been to do three coats of clear, let it cure for a couple of days, smooth with 800 wet, then lay down two more coats of clear for good depth of reflection. My snafu happened in the middle of the first round, and it's now cured so today is wet sand the whole body, spot repair the sand through, and do the final clear later today or tomorrow, depending on how long it takes to get the body wet sanded to satisfaction. That is, provided there's not a toad strangler rain within 50 miles....

Here's hoping for sunny skies and smooth spraying!!! I have no doubt it's going to turn out really nice in spite of the glitches along the way. Right about now a Kelly Clarkson song popped into my head...."What doesn't kill you makes you stronger..."

oh i have been there cutting past the clear in the base can be sensitve but you have time were many times we did not watching thinner and recoat time as the base can roll up the edge of the clear has alot to do with who,s system you used . cutting it open and letting it dry good then re sand it so if it shinks down it will be flat. i would add a day or two more make sure thinners are out and is some what hard with many base coats you have a recoat time for clear i would wait as long as you can . put your first coat of clear down some what dry let sit for a good long time next coat slow down just abit more till you get the build you want first two coats of clear you do not want to wet on wet if you hammer it you will have a mess

Thanks, Randy! And Pat, what you say about it having "...a lot to do with who's system you used" is critical. What I'm learning as I go is that with today's complex chemistry it's not smart to try to mix & match products for new paint unless you know from experience that it works, and experience needs to be long term coating stability and durability. Anyone doing paint for the first time would be well served by finding an independent paint supplier who does custom painting himself/herself that's willing to school you in how things work together in return for selling you product. Then buy everything that you need from him/her as you go along. In my case I can buy the "good stuff" in the disposable arena (tape, abrasives, etc) cheaper from my paint guy than I can anywhere else, other than maybe shopping the net. He buys in large quantities, and passes on the savings. Like yesterday, I stopped by to get schooled on spot repair, and walked away with a 1/2 pint can with two or three ounces of blending clear, and lessons on how to use it. I bought a few tack rags and tried to pay him for the clear, but he said it was just part of getting me across the line, and happy with my project.

you can fix it any way you want but your by far better blending the base out then clear the hole panle or break under a body line by back rolling the tape sticky side up . if going blending clear i did many spots but on sides and lowers of body . we made it up 50/50 with clear /thinner . had one gun with the mix . them another gun with slower thinner in it to melt blend back. if your sanding and wheeling this car dead flat there is a very good chance of a ring or in time burn out that blend job on a roof is a used car fix .honestly. that why its far better to seal it all down with more clear you will have no ring out

Well, I'm learning why a good paint job is expensive. I'm also learning that I'm no painter at this point, but I'm stubborn!

Saturday morning I did the spot repair of the water mess, and it went flawlessly - two light coats of blending clear with three hours dry time, two cover coats of black followed by a coat of candy blue, and that was all dry by 12:30. Decided to cover the body and shoot the loose parts first, move them out and then clean up and shoot the body. I had found when I sanded the first coats of clear that I had some bad orange peel in a few places, one being the bottom third of the doors so I was trying hard to keep things well lit so I could get good, smooth coats. Had a couple of nasty sags on the trunk, and also on the bottom back below the trunk lid opening that I'll be working on in the 1500 sand & polish stage. Also got one sag on a door, and a nasty place on the right cowl area, just below the body molding and on one splash apron. Like I said, I've been humbled by the clear Finished at 6pm, not very happy, but another step down the line in the process.

Body still in the booth
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It'll polish!
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Loose parts in the shop -
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Light rings are something with the camera lens - don't show on the surface....
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The good splash apron, with the bad boy hiding behind.
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Drying today & tomorrow, then into sag/run repairs, re-assembly, 1500 sanding & polish. Will probably fit in a coat of single stage on the bottom side of the hood, and some sanding & clear on the bottom side of the deck lid to clean up some orange peel there, too. No rest for the weary.....