Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build

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Originally Posted by DA34GUY

Some thing nobady has touched on is the quality of the resin used in the repair.
That JUNK you buy in the gallon cans @ the supply house or big box stores is not the hi quality resin that N&N uses.
Just my 2 cents and 45+ years of playin with glass, both auto and marine

And that could be a contributing factor, Jerry. I know that I bought one gallon can of resin at the paint shop, but I've also bought some at the auto parts place and I can't really say for sure what I used on the hood extension. Duane didn't mention that when we talked, but then again he may have assumed I was buying from a supplier like he uses.

Originally Posted by DA34GUY

Some thing nobady has touched on is the quality of the resin used in the repair.
That JUNK you buy in the gallon cans @ the supply house or big box stores is not the hi quality resin that N&N uses.
Just my 2 cents and 45+ years of playin with glass, both auto and marine

yes i did post on junk product... post 395 and 395now every one want,s to get in a pissing contest about GELL some time s it is no more then polyester resin with some thickener in it and like i said if air cured glass panel and thin with poor product nothing going to stop it from moving . has for how much money spent on job s yep them Jon S airbactic air planes had to look better then ok .been playing with glass for over 30 years and do not miss working on the SMC parts or sanding on wing s that had carbon fiber on them

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I'm with Jim on the gel coat!!! Had a Merc body in 'glass that was the "1 out of 10"... Did some gelcoat on the bare glass areas, no more problems....

Or, the common sense rationale; If 'glass doesn't need gel coat, why do all the companies making 'glass bodies go to the extra time and expense of using it?

a fast way to put color in the finish part . when parts in the mold. ... first spayed in and top finsih many times ... NO need for filler to hide mat marks for cloth marks not need. when parts out of mold no time waiting to sand and block finish with any fillers after out of mold. not alot of skilled worker to block parts need or painters ... very fast way to make a part if using a chopper gun . BUT.. i fixed alot of gell that pop off a part when you started going after in looking for voids . if i was going to re coat the part if it was not of a good product .l would be striped of all old gell and would go epoxy West System s .OH i think mild year s like black or white glass vetts were not all glass some parts were SMC that did not have any gell on it from GM 69 and up all were SMC i worked on them to

Well, I hope you don't mind terribly, but I believe I'll continue using gell coat over bare glass. Not being an "expert" like so many others, I believe I'll continue to use the products and methods that the people who build and repair 'glass cars recommend.

For what it's worth, the "read-out" has all but disappeared, and the two bubbles were perhaps 0.025" above the surface (calibrated fingertip, not miked), too small to puncture with an insulin syringe needle (two holes) to inject super glue and press flat. At a local gathering, sitting in the hot sun with no cloud cover all morning it was judged "Best in Class - Street Rods" against a dozen or more pretty nice cars so it's not too shabby. Like I said, I plan to let it cook through July, August and into the early Fall, then when the local car scene has calmed down I'll figure out if it's worth the effort to work it down and repaint it. I may even make a trip down to N&N if the mood hits me, and bounce it around with him for a bit.

when the body builder way fails use what you like the fast way for a finish on a part is gell not the best if product is poor and not the only way .. polyester gell is not the best top coat that can be put on and if of a low grade. it better to be raw glass with no bull shit on it yep you need to keep were your comfort zone is dave use ......what you like and works for you..... i am lucky if i need information i am not far from the west system.s and seen Jon S build many plugs and lay up carbon fiber bodys. and airplane parts with no gell ..... as for glass and wood and steel he is more then a expert . one of the hi points in my life was to paint and do glass finish work for him and he has been my land lord for the last 20years am lucky to see some of his unreal workmanship on plans boats and cars a was lucky to be a very small part of it on the planes

On another note, when I had the engine & tranny pulled my son-in-law mentioned that he had picked up an after market, short throw shifter for his new Mustang, and that it was an amazing difference in shift accuracy and feel. I looked around, and the one that seemed to offer the best potential improvement while allowing me to use my Hurst stick was the STEEDA Triax. Bought one, swapped it out while everything was out of the car (my tunnel has one nominal 4" hole for the shifter boot penetration, not nearly enough to swap a shifter without surgery) and hoped for the best. I've gotta say I'm very pleased with the increased spring tension to the "center" gate, which is what makes or breaks the 2-3 shift. The shifter action is much crisper, and position definition is improved, too. I'm happy I swapped out the OEM shifter for a STEEDA.

644.jpgDSC_0034.jpgDSC_0005.jpgDSC_0020.jpgRoger, Hi my name is wayne rogan and i just read though your build site for your '33... I too bought one from Dewayne and now am just getting it together for the last time.. body got painted last week and i just did the last of the rub out on it today.. i'm new to the site having just come across it last night so i'll have to post some pictures of my build.... anyway nice hot rod and enjoyed seeing your build... wayne

Originally Posted by parkwood

Roger, Hi my name is wayne rogan and i just read though your build site for your '33... I too bought one from Dewayne and now am just getting it together for the last time.. body got painted last week and i just did the last of the rub out on it today.. i'm new to the site having just come across it last night so i'll have to post some pictures of my build.... anyway nice hot rod and enjoyed seeing your build... wayne

Hi Wayne,
Wow, looks like you've done a fantastic job on the '33/34, and the color really POPS! Duane had one almost identical to yours several years back, and he sold it to a guy in Oklahoma who added some of the prettiest flames I've ever seen. Duane walked around the Oklahoma City Fairgrounds with me & my wife at the NSRA show in Spring 2009, pointed out this car as one he had done a couple of years before, and I ordered mine from him a few months later!

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I'd love to see a build thread on yours if you took progress pictures along the way! Or if you don't want to go back all the way to the start maybe start a thread and post continue the updates as you get it finished! Welcome to CHR!! Love the car!!

Roger thanks a lot, I think Duane told me about that car when i was talking to him. The reason i ordered from him was the magazine write ups they did in Street Rod Builder... i was dealing with another company on one of their body and frame kits but everything i wanted to do they didn't want me to do it that way, but when i called and talked to Duane and told him what i wanted to do he would say "thats great and i've done that or that would look good" didn't take long for me to send him a check... What a great guy and wish i could meet him some day..
As soon as i figure out the site a little more i would like to post some pictures and see if the guys like what i've done.. Wayne

Always nice when the plan comes together!

Wayne,
You're right, Duane Noblett is just a great guy, and you can't ask for a better guy to do business with - top drawer all the way! It looks like you've got the picture posting down pat, but there's a "sticky" thread for a description of two different ways - http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...tml?highlight= On the "Home" page click "Forums", select the one where you want your thread to reside and open that one and you'll see "New Thread". A few clicks and you're off & running!!

Wayne, that tin work (hood and splash aprons) in bare metal really compliments the '33 grille. Good way to show why some prefer the more "elegant" styling of the '33 over the '34 (which is still beautiful in it's own right). I'll second Roger's suggestion that you post up your own thread with build shots.

For all that California has evolved into an armpit (IMO), if I had to live there again it would be fun to have a return address of Shingle Springs................

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Wayne, that tin work (hood and splash aprons) in bare metal really compliments the '33 grille. Good way to show why some prefer the more "elegant" styling of the '33 over the '34 (which is still beautiful in it's own right). I'll second Roger's suggestion that you post up your own thread with build shots.

For all that California has evolved into an armpit (IMO), if I had to live there again it would be fun to have a return address of Shingle Springs................

Bob,
Got to agree with you about the state of affairs going on here in west. I followed my kids up here from Irvine so the wife could be near the grandkids... i'm always telling the kids that i wished they would have moved out of the state but didn't work out that way...will work on my own thread so as not to high jack Rogers any more...

Wayne, where is Shingle Springs? I'm guessing Redwood country, maybe near Willow Creek?

Jack.