Thread: Followed Me Home, '33 Build

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Jim,
I like your tip with the short section of a file. I use the razor blade in much the same way, with a couple of pieces of tape on the ends to limit the cut, as long as the blade remains upright in a scraping action. My "paint guy" gave me that tip, and I've found it works good but the tape does get cut down pretty quickly and needs to be changed as needed or the whole blade starts cutting.
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I also found that rounding the corners of the blade, like Pat mentioned, is not a bad idea, as they can punch through and dig in quickly on inside curves.

I think what Pat is calling a "snot block" is pumice stone that's kept soaking in water. Meguire's made mine, called a Uni-grit Sanding Block - comes in 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit.

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It's about 1x1x2.5", and as you use it grooves wear into the surface and it has to be "re-surfaced". A piece of adhesive backed sand paper on a piece of glass works great for this, but they wear quickly. This is mine, in 2000 grit now 1/4" thick, after using it a bunch.

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I'm interested in the gel-coat information, Jim, and really appreciate your insight. I did not know that the gel-coat could be re-applied to blend repairs - thought it was only an initial layer inside the mold, which then got the fiberglass laid in on top. I'll have to look into the option of a new top coat of gel-coat if that's what it takes. I'll definitely be re-painting the hood in the Fall/Winter, as I have two (at this point) bubbles that I need to puncture and glue down with super glue in a syringe. After the summer fun I'll look at working down those areas, prepping the whole hood and re-spraying primer, color and clear.