Thread: 1934 Ford 5 Window Coupe Hot Rod
-
09-18-2010 10:13 PM #31
DMW,
Looking great doesn't even come close. Brings back memories of 1961 when I dropped a 50 ford into my 35 4 door sedan. The engine was just rebuilt with stock cam, Offy heads and Edmonds 2X2 manifold. Won't bore you with the story of what happened after the sun went down for the madden run. Lets just say I took care of all the infractions and all was fine. After all, I was just a youngin at the time.
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
09-24-2010 07:57 PM #32
Here's a picture of the adapters used to install the 24 stud engines in an early chassis. See the blue u-shaped pieces.
The 59A engine had a double belt pulley on a long snout crank. I had to cut off the fan pulley so it would fit the chassis. Youcan either run an electric fan as I did or run a fan mounted alternator.
The clearance is really close I had to jack the engine up to get the alternator belt on.
Here you can the rake going on. Posie's drop front spring with 195s in the front and 215s in the rear.
Just a few shot of the interior work in progress.
Livin' on Route 66
-
09-25-2010 10:33 AM #33
dmw,
Looking good. Looks like you have a 39 trans and did you switch to electric wipers?
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
-
09-26-2010 12:03 AM #34
-
09-26-2010 01:02 PM #35
dmw,
From the earlier pic it looks like the shifter tower is standing straight up but I could be wrong. If it is straight up it is a 39, if it slants back it is a 38 or earlier. Also, I believe 39 was the 1st year ford changed to helical gears, (quiet) from spur gears, (noisy). However, don't quote me on that one.
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
-
10-03-2010 06:08 PM #36
Found this new/old aftermarket oil filter last week at a swap meet. It has a bronze filter element you can just take out and clean with a drain plug to drain and acuumulated sludge. Made by Permanent Filter Division of Continental Manufacturing Corp. Culver City, CA.Thought it would work good and only $15.
Livin' on Route 66
-
10-04-2010 08:47 AM #37
Sweet oil filter! Old School High Tech...
That car is a great find, I am wishing it was in my garage.Scott
31 Ford five window
-
10-04-2010 11:16 AM #38
-
10-05-2010 05:38 PM #39
Plumbed the carbs with copper tubing. I'm not sure about the look of the pressure gauge though.
Removed the dash and wiring.
Livin' on Route 66
-
10-06-2010 10:45 AM #40
Dmw,
Great progress. I like the looks of the copper and gauge. I wish mine was coming along as fast.
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
-
10-13-2010 07:08 PM #41
I got some more of the wiring done. Got most of the dash wired up. Having trouble with the ignition switch. When I get it tightened up enough so it doesn.t turn in the hole the key won't turn. If i back it off the swith turns and it won't go into start position. I'll just get a new switch and see that will work.
It has all Stewart Warner gauges. Haven't decided if I want to use the ammeter or change out to a voltometer.
Here's a shot of the fuse/junction box with the relay for the fan. Still need to mount the relay for the fuel pump.
Mounted the 12 volt wiper motor
I wanted to have turn signal and park lights in front but I couldn't find any that I liked. So I just put on some cowl lights that had both in them.
Livin' on Route 66
-
11-07-2010 04:35 PM #42
Had to remove the electric fan of of the fan shroud. There was no way it was going to fit no matter what I did. Although the generator fan does fit in the fan shroud hole.Livin' on Route 66
-
11-07-2010 09:53 PM #43
I like your coupe more every time I see it.........such a solid survivor. You might hit the local Marine supply store in your area, like West Marine or similar, for the ignition switch. They carry Cole Hersee brass ones that have a long threaded stem and a nut on the front and back so you can really torque it down. Not cheap, something like $ 38, but I tried to go cheap on the 27 and bought an Autozone special. I had the same trouble as you, couldn't torque it tight enough so it wouldn't spin when I turned the key. I got the Cole Hersee one and it is perfect and will last a zillion years.
Don
-
11-14-2010 05:04 PM #44
Thanks Don! I just got a new one at NAPA. It seems to work fine.
Still messing with the radiator shroud. I had to cut a hole in it so I can remove the distributor cap. Hopefully this is the last time I pull it off.
Restored a 1948 Ford steering wheel for the 34.
I decided to use this instead of the other one I had.
Livin' on Route 66
-
11-20-2010 10:40 AM #45
Finally had some time to work on the 34. Fabbed up a mounting bracket for the "vintage" oil filter. Made it sturdy enough not to flex the firewall.
I was thinking of using copper lines for the filter but since it's mounted on the firewall and not the engine it needs to be flexible. I didn't want to use rubber hose for several reasons and went with braided SS lines.
Also monted the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Now I just need to finish the wiring and a hundred other little things!Livin' on Route 66
If your wife has a friend that annoys you don't tell your wife to stop being friends with her. Just casually mention how pretty she is... .
the Official CHR joke page duel