Thread: 57 Chevy Cruizer
-
03-21-2011 06:40 AM #181
Lookin' good Dave. 2x on the "More Pics""PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
03-21-2011 07:30 AM #182
Great progress Dave!!!!!!!!!I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
-
03-21-2011 08:11 AM #183
Nice floor work, Dig gassers1930 model a , 1953 ford truck
"DOWN WITH THE SICKNESS"
-
03-21-2011 08:13 AM #184
been gluing them ever since!!!!
I tried Eastwood's epoxy panel adhesive - but wasn't impressed with the chemical adhesive qualities at all.
Nice looking project for sure. How about 'Yellow Fever'.
But that one may have been overused also???There is no limit to what a man can do . . . if he doesn't mind who gets the credit. (Ronald Reagan)
-
03-21-2011 08:54 AM #185
i have used clear silicon or self prime windshield urethane works very good better then panel ahesive floor can flex and not loose bond if you can deal with white or tan color 3M 5200 will hold it to there and will never come apartIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
03-21-2011 09:02 AM #186
As I mentioned, we used 3M's black panel adhesive to hold the floor down on Dans rpu, then riveted it. The rivets were actually not needed but he wanted that look. We had to buy the special gun that holds two tubes and dispenses the two components equally, but it was pretty straightforward after that.
Don
-
03-21-2011 09:18 AM #187
I usually use 3M, sometimes Fusor. Never have had a bit of problems with either!!!
I was going to take some pictures yesterday, but everything was such a mess in the garage.... Going to do some cleaning today, go get some steel to finish hangin' it on the rotissierie. Must be getting old and lazy, sure is a lot easier working on the car when it can be rotated around instead of crawling around all the frame rails and floor supports!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
03-21-2011 09:40 AM #188
a long run like a floor on a full size car with abit of alum floor i would never use panel ahesive but that just me . you really need some thing that will move abit and is more for acoustical damping alum is hard to get a good bond to were steel to steel bond the panel ahesive may work very good for that and smaller floors . the 5200 will do the job as well or windshield glue and maybe cheaper but is not my moneyLast edited by pat mccarthy; 03-21-2011 at 10:05 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
03-22-2011 05:51 PM #189
Today I did some work on the front of the frame where the previous owner had cut off the OEM front and installed the rails and straight axle...
Well, the rails he put on were 2" X 4" tubing, 1/4" wall--they went in the junk pile to be replaced with some 11 ga. tubing and 10 ga. gussets. The "new" rails had been stuffed inside the factory frame then a bit of stick welding done. The spring hangers for the front axle were a piece of channel iron, welded to a piece of angle iron, welded to the frame--more scrap pile additions.
The frame itself where it was cut off needs some work, but it isn't anything too serious. Added a couple pics of what was on there, and the other rail with the junk cut off.
Also, a picture of the inner panel on the drivers side in the back seat area. I cut the OEM panel out leaving 1 1/2" of the original panel to glue and rivet the new aluminum panel to. Did the same on the inner wheel well, welded in a piece of 20 ga. to the original opening to glue the new inner wheel wells to. The quarter panels have a bit of rust on the inside but not really too bad for a 54 year old car! No concern, both quarter panels will be replaced anyway.
The other shot is the passengers side door sill area. Used a bit of 20 ga. to add some strength to the area. The rest of the floor will be aluminum.
Hope you guys aren't fed up with my lousy photography and slow rate of getting things done!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
03-23-2011 02:43 AM #190
I wonder why they used 1/4 thick ??? Oh well at least its going to get done properly now, keep the pics coming Dave, watching with interestIts aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.
-
03-23-2011 03:39 AM #191
[QUOTE=roadster32;421399]I wonder why they used 1/4 thick ???
The extra weight helped keep the front end down on hard launches.
Dave, no fear about your "lousy" pictures, they are actually very good and we await each update.
Don
-
03-23-2011 07:24 AM #192
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
03-24-2011 10:13 AM #193
All the cars in the 50's and 60's are tanks by todays standards!:lol:" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
-
03-30-2011 07:10 PM #194
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
-
03-30-2011 07:54 PM #195
From talking with guys who have or had a '57 Chevy and some research I've done on the 'net, the car was around 3300 pounds when built. Just from eliminating some of the sheet metal and restructuring a few things, the net loss so far is over 300 pounds. I'm working to eliminate another 500 pounds to get the dry weight for the car at 2500 without sacrificing any of the structural integrity of the car. Takes some planning and fabricating, but lowering the weight is worth it! Really getting to be a fun project, too!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird