What strut mount, a steering mount strut or a wing strut??

160 lbs of weight reduction is not a mere issue, it's a huge issue!!! I'm down to looking at places to cut a pound at a time and not effect the structural integrity of the car... As for cars breaking, of course they break, part of the game. One pass on a top alcohol or top fuel car is harder on a car then years of street use... Nothing against the big shops that build the cars, but when you get so busy you have to hire folks to do the work, part of the intense quality control required is gone. As for the normalized moly and my welding, one of my cars was a '67 Comet, finished and campaigned in 97...It's still out there going rounds now!!!! Another one, T-bird, done in '00 or 01 (CRS) and all moly has 11,000 miles and 200+passes on it at the drags. Not too concerned about my welds. But, I do all my own notching, fitting, bevelling, and welding. As Jerry mentioned, small welds work better then big welds and if you want to do it in a hurry you're in the wrong business... Yes, it's very time and labor intensive but it's my car and time and labor don't matter----what else would I do if I wasn't in the garage???... Granted, I may be on the verge of obsessive about the weight and power issues with this car, but it's going to be built the way I want it. I've gone so far as to call Autometer regarding the weight of their models of gauges!

I do get a bit irate when someone mentions that I'm foolish about the weight and the moly, and none of it matters, cuz it does matter, if only to me!!!! I don't do cars in a hurry, my normal build time for a street machine is about 2 1/2 years, some of them a lot longer! Building cars is what I do, when the Plymouth and the roadster are done and gone I'll be done with doing customer cars and strictly doing my own. Just exactly what I've wanted to do since I started this madness so many years ago....

so, sorry I lost my cool too, get a bit testy when someone suggests what I'm doing is wrong and foolish.....