Thread: 41 Willys Gasser project

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Well seeing as i have no interest in a royal wedding i thought i would make good use of the long bank holiday weekend.

Cut the front floor panel from a sheet of 12mm ply and clearanced it for the autobox, Its only bolted in at the moment, will glass it fully very shortly.








Once i had the floor in place i could get the front body mounts into place.








Next i made some plates up that bolt to the front mounts at the A post sandwiching the floor, this where my front cage mounts.










Next i made the B post mounts from 4" x 2" box, these needed to be strong as my main cage hoop bolts in here, the box was tapered and capped off and square plate welded to each mount. They are tacked in place and will get fully welded when the body is lifted off. (the box section in the pics is the temperary mounts)














2 more plates were cut and drilled to bolt in at the B post again sandwiching the 12mm floor, this is where the main cage hoop bolts in.








Next i started putting in the steelwork to stiffen up the B post and to provide a mounting point for the lock striker.








This is where it started raining so i retired to the workshop to find something to do, I had a offcut of 3" stainless exhaust tubing so decided to make a weight bar for the rear, i spun up some capping plates for the ends and welded them in place, then i gave the tube a quick polish as it makes it easier to full polish after the brackets were welded on. The brackets fix where the original Willys bumper irons fit, I will cut the bumper irons cutouts in the rear fenders tomorrow and hopefully get it bolted in place.










All in all a good productive day !!! Now for a nice beer or 2





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Very nice work Steve but hey man,what's this not watching the wedding of the century??? You could of sat there with Sue and drunk your beers and made all sorts of wise quacks just to annoy her.

Nice stuff, Steve!!! Working on a Hot Rod is a priority over watching any dang wedding on the tube!

Think this is about the best thread I found where attaching a glass body to metal work . Really good lay out , and may be some great stuff when even rejuvenating some old metal .

I would rather stick pins in my eyes Whip, i thought it was boring !!!

We sure agree on that Dave !!!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Nice stuff, Steve!!! Working on a Hot Rod is a priority over watching any dang wedding on the tube!

Thanks mate, thats very kind of you to say.

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Think this is about the best thread I found where attaching a glass body to metal work . Really good lay out , and may be some great stuff when even rejuvenating some old metal .

Thats looking real good,Steve..You arent going to glass the steel frame to the body,are you??Different rates of expansion and contraction,as you probably know..That Willys is coming along in leaps and bounds,mate..Nothin like a gasser in the neighbourhood to wake up the locals...
I hadnt seen you on here for some hours,so I naturally thought you were out with the half million others,lining the streets to watch the wedding.. I had a good excuse too..Didnt want to sit around an 11pm to see it all..

No mate i know about the expansion/contraction thing plus of course glass don't stick that well to steel, Everything is bolted and clamped, I never hang hinges/locks etc etc on the glass, i prefer to sandwich the glass so its not stressed, never had a star crack ever in any of my glass cars doing it this way. i'm probably teaching my granny to suck eggs here as your obviously a laminator

Originally Posted by lamin8r

Thats looking real good,Steve..You arent going to glass the steel frame to the body,are you??Different rates of expansion and contraction,as you probably know..That Willys is coming along in leaps and bounds,mate..Nothin like a gasser in the neighbourhood to wake up the locals...
I hadnt seen you on here for some hours,so I naturally thought you were out with the half million others,lining the streets to watch the wedding.. I had a good excuse too..Didnt want to sit around an 11pm to see it all..

Originally Posted by roadster32

No mate i know about the expansion/contraction thing plus of course glass don't stick that well to steel, Everything is bolted and clamped, I never hang hinges/locks etc etc on the glass, i prefer to sandwich the glass so its not stressed, never had a star crack ever in any of my glass cars doing it this way. i'm probably teaching my granny to suck eggs here as your obviously a laminator

Haha,Steve,nice one...good turn of phrase there..Thought you would know about that,,I feel like I am teaching granny to suck eggs... I am trying to get back to the redevelopment of the 32/5w bodies,and the new floor[fibreglass,8mm thick,reinforced]so I am very interested in your work in the framing side..Admittedly,we have some stringent regs here with steel framing in glass bodies..so its interesting to watch what you are doing on this particular build..I have had a good hard look at Wescotts framing,Deuce Customs[Australia],so I know where we are going..Just gotta get in there..Hopefully in a week or three..

Lamin8r a lot of them seem to use round tube curved to match the contour, i've done it that way myself but it don't give you anywhere to attach panels as its round and i can't see it being as rigid as square tube in triangles as if its curved it can still be flexed on the bend where as the square tube allows trim clip holes to be drilled into it. Not sure of the science of it all but my cars don't have any rattles like some glass cars.
Obviously if your doing bodies to sell you may have to go the round tube route as it is less time consuming.

Probably,a combination of both,Steve..But I will be leaning towards square as much as possible..The B pillars have to be minimum 38mm o/d x min.3mm wall,and the rails above the doors,25mmx25mm,3mm wall..The rest is by virtual commonsense,or as the certifier sees it..The floor will be glass,with a reinforcer from B pillar to B pillar,plus,we need a fixed bulkhead between the trunk area and passenger compartment..I have to build a body,chop it,set it up on a chassis,and start from there,as I intend to do a new set of molds,with a 2''or 2 1/2 ''chop..

Very much like what i like to use mate, I like 50mm x 25mm x 3mm for A & B posts as it can stiffen them right up, i use a combination of 25mm & 20mm elsewhere, even 25mm square can be a bitch to accomodate sometimes.
Where the tube is in compression or tension i drop to 1.6mm wall as its still very strong used in this way and light too, as you say a bit of common sense is needed.
On the Willys there just isn't the room to run a 50 x 25 x 3 up the A post, this is why the firewall frame is a bit beefy, its all 20 x 20 x 1,6 but is incredibly strong and doesn't flex in any direction which is good as i have to tie in the door hinges to it, its a bit tight in this area because of the recessed firewall.

Originally Posted by lamin8r

Probably,a combination of both,Steve..But I will be leaning towards square as much as possible..The B pillars have to be minimum 38mm o/d x min.3mm wall,and the rails above the doors,25mmx25mm,3mm wall..The rest is by virtual commonsense,or as the certifier sees it..The floor will be glass,with a reinforcer from B pillar to B pillar,plus,we need a fixed bulkhead between the trunk area and passenger compartment..I have to build a body,chop it,set it up on a chassis,and start from there,as I intend to do a new set of molds,with a 2''or 2 1/2 ''chop..

Not such a productive day today mainly because its been bl00dy hot

I got the weight bar fitted and made a template for the trans tunnel and a few other boring bits. The trans tunnel could of been lower but i want to mount my shifter on it so i made it a bit higher.

Sorry Whip been unable to login for the last few days, duno why ??? I would much rather be in my workshop than watching a boring wedding.