Thread: Project "Left Overs"

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It's been a while since I had anything to post about the rpu project, been ironing out some bugs on the 27. Now that it seems to be running well I have been able to get back on the rpu.

The front frame sections were holding me back. I decided to taper them from 4 inches to 3 inches in the front so I had to cut a pie shaped section 1 inch wide by 3 feet long and then close it up. I got it cut and have been hesitating to have my Son Dan weld it up for me because I didn't want him to miss any time working on his own car. But this week I clamped the front section to the welding table and he got them done for me. I don't weld well enough to do structural stuff, so I leave that to him.

After they were welded I ground the welds smooth and then cut the sections of the frame that go from the firewall to the back of the body. Tonight we got those pieces welded to the front frame sections, and I was able to finally slip that much of the frame under the body and start squaring things up.

I also cut all the pieces of tubing that go in the bed area, and tomorrow Dan will weld those up also. Our plan is to do both sides of the frame then drag out the frame jig and weld crossmembers in, front and rear.

Here are some pictures of what we got done today. It's 3 am and we just got in from the shop, and I am going to bed.

Don

Thats funny i was only thinking last night what was happenning with this project, Good progress Don.

Looking good. I have been puzzling over the front kick up on mine. I figured I'd need about that much to get it to sit where I want it. Looks like with the channel it's almost hidden. Not sure how to handle that with body on top of frame.

Well anyway, glad to see you back at it. Hope the 27 keeps running good. I'll be watching this one. Might find and idea or 2 to steal..........er borrow from you........

Steve, yep, it did get sidetracked for a while, but getting this portion of the frame done was a major hurdle. Dan had 12 feet of cuts in the front rails to weld closed and then I had to grind those smooth, so I am really glad that is behind me. Still a lot of capping to do on the open portions of the 2 x 4 tubing, and some gussets and crossmembers, but small potatoes compared to the front part.

dlotraf33, I ended up with the 4 inch kickup in the front and 13 inches in back. You are right, it might be tough to pull off a kick up on a non channelled car, but I think I have seen it done. Please feel free to steal any ideas you want, that is where I get all my ideas.

The one concession to modern stuff I am going to make on the car is the rear suspension. I was going to use a Model A rear crossmember and spring, but since it will be totally hidden in the bed (I am going to have a louvered tonneau cover over the entire bed) I have decided to go with coil overs and a three bar setup from Suicide Doors. It will make for a compact, nice riding setup with lots of adjustability built in.

I've also decided that I will run the radiator in the bed with an empty Model A grille shell and Moon tank up front. I have most of the details worked out in my head on how to run the cooling lines and where to mount the radiator.

Don

Don, have you mocked up your seating yet? If so I was wondering what you think you will end up, as far as seat height off of the floor? And if you know off hand what the lenth of your cab firewall to back of cab? I am streaching mine about 5" over stock. But still along way from frame, and back and forth on channel or not.

Well, luckily when I scored this body from my Son Dan I also got the aluminum seats that he had bought for it. They are the Karkey (sp) ones from Speedway, with the black covers. So I am set there. He even had the mounts made and all that already done so all we have to do is cut two sheet metal floor panels and that portion will be done. Not sure of the dimensions, but it is a lot roomier than my 23 or my 27........and it has doors, for a change.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I've also decided that I will run the radiator in the bed with an empty Model A grille shell and Moon tank up front. I have most of the details worked out in my head on how to run the cooling lines and where to mount the radiator.

Don

You haven't talked much about how you'll run the plumbing, but before you cap those side rails you ought to think about stainless or copper tubing inside the side channels. Seems like you'd have room for at least a 1" tubing. Drill some lightening holes for ventilation and you'd gain some cooling capacity back. They'd be out of sight and out of debris damage range. Just a thought.

That's actually not a bad idea, Bob. I had sort of planned on running two 1.5 inch tubes of some sort back, side by side, right inside the frame rail on the drivers side. I am using a Kugel 90 degree brake setup that goes under the dash, so there will be nothing under the floor in that area. But I will look at the possibility of doing what you suggested.

You do have your moments!

Don

Coming right along. I agree with uncle Bob, protecting as mush as you can inside the frame is a good idea if it can be done. Another suggestion might be to drill small holes in the lowest part of the frame and the tubing inside the frame, in case there is ever a leak you will know.
My 2 cents.
Ken

Haha, that would be kind of a bummer, Ken, to have the frame fill up with coolant and not knowing about it. I haven't gotten that far in my planning yet and have considered just bending up some stainless or aluminum round tubing to run parallel with the rails to carry the coolant back to the radiator. Not sure where I will end up on that yet.

I hate to keep taking Dan off of his rpu project to weld stuff for me, but frankly I just don't see wel enough these days to trust my own welding, especially on frames and suspension. He has been good about it though, I get it all prepped and clamped down and he comes over and welds it up, then I grind it smooth.

His wiring is almost done! Just a few things like electric fuel pump and tank sender and some final looming and it will be complete. He hooked up a jump box and was able to test all the connections...........all the lights work, gauges light up, and switches do what they should do. I think this has given him a morale boost......it has been since 2005 he has been building this car in one form or another. This might be the year to actually drive it.

Here are some pictures he took last night.

Don

Wow! No other word for it...

Dan nice work, your almost there. Don you got to be a proud Daddy!

Thanks Jim and Steve. I think he might actually have it done in time for Turkey Run at Thanksgiving this year. I hate to jinx it, but just a little more painting of the grille shell, some chroming of the nerf bars, some machining on the backside of his Buick brake drums, and minor stuff like that left to do. So that leaves him 10 months time to get that all done. But for 4 or 5 years I have been saying "this year the car is going to Daytona."

He has to burn some vacation time at work or lose it, so he's taking tomorrow off and he and I will be hitting on our cars then. Maybe if I get some more frame prepped I can get him to weld that up for me too.

Don

Looks like the 3 D's Garage is crankin out some hotrods! between Don's 46, your RPU and 27, and Dan's RPU you guys are single handedly boosting the car parts industry economy!

You're right, Steve. Sometimes it seems like it. Dan and I were talking about that tonight, and how he is going to really enjoy a break from spending every spare dollar and every spare minute working on his car. Me, I'm just too dumb to know when to quit.

Dan had today off so we got a full day in, working on both cars. He is essentially done with all the wiring and the car now cranks on the key. He decided to go with an Optima blue top marine battery because his car was built around that one.........the battery box is a billet one made just for the Optimas. He got that installed and is down to the short strokes on the electrical end.

While he was doing that I got the rear frame sections for my rpu prepped so he can weld them up for me Friday. I did the same thing I did on my 23 frame, cutting small arrow shaped backers to slip into the insides of the 2 x 4 tubing, and then I welded them in with rosette welds to hold them in place until he fully welds the joints up for me.

I clamped both rear sections together to make sure they are exactly the same shape and dimensions, and once welded I will do the same thing to each side of the frame. Then we can put it on the frame jig and build our crossmembers.

Here are some pictures of what I got done today. Picture one is the backers I cut out of 1 x 1/8 flat stock, picture two is the 2 x 4 tubing with holes drilled for the rosette welds to go into. Picture 3 is after the backers are temporarily welded into place, picture four and five are of the two rear frame sections clamped up for final welding.

Don