Thread: 1946 Ford Coupe-

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Dig the car being an owner of a '46 cpe too.

I'd correct the rear install, update the front so the helper spring is not needed & lower to the ground. Then I'd drive the wheels off it this year.

Nice ride.

Enjoy.

REGS

I have a 46, if you want an easy seat change Mark VIII seats will fit right in, the back seats you just unhook the back take it out, take the bottom out, set a 2X4 on its side across hump, level screw to stock board, the back you just hang on the 46 hangers fits right in. The front you have to make some risers to lift the seats a little drill holes so you can mount to stock holes and then just drill holes for inside by hump.

Bob

Check the center bolt on those springs - it might be as simple as changing the springs side for side. You do have to make sure that the drive shaft has enough yoke as well to fit the transmission correctly.

Originally Posted by IC2

Check the center bolt on those springs - it might be as simple as changing the springs side for side. You do have to make sure that the drive shaft has enough yoke as well to fit the transmission correctly.

Thanks! That was going to be the first thing I checked- I hung a rear years ago and the spring was centered 24 " from each end- like you say- this one may have been installed reversed by past owner when he did the conversion- remembering seeing years ago how someone had made that honest mistake-

Another thought on the rear end shift, if you want to lower it some (prevents nose bleeds), you could make up lowering blocks with offset locator hole and pin to shift the axle without changing the springs around (if that would make a difference). On the yoke, if it's correct now, you may end up shortening the shaft or the yoke depending.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Another thought on the rear end shift, if you want to lower it some (prevents nose bleeds), you could make up lowering blocks with offset locator hole and pin to shift the axle without changing the springs around (if that would make a difference). On the yoke, if it's correct now, you may end up shortening the shaft or the yoke depending.

Checked it out this morning- driver's side is centered- so now pulling u-bolts on passenger side- checking for a broken spring bolt- see what has let is slip back-

Wheel brake cylinder has a slight leak on that same side- fixing that at the same time- this is not that exciting of stuff so I'm not taking pictures-

Leaving the ride height alone for now but can see several inches lower in it's future-

OH thats so sweet ....really needs a nice tube chassis and some wheel tubs on air ride, come on the site could use another pro street 40's hot rod!

Brakes fixed- replaced wheel cylinders- not just the leaker- had a bear of a time getting the filler bolt out of the master cylinder- next project will be to change that to a dual master-

I checked center bolt on spring- OK- checked measurements side to side from crossmember to spring center bolt- within a 1/8 inch- so anyone have any ideas why one wheel is back in wheel opening 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch- not centered- wife followed me and says it is not dog tracking so now what should I check-

take some measurements from the door post to wheel and fender opening

Originally Posted by 2bubbas

I checked center bolt on spring- OK- checked measurements side to side from cross member to spring center bolt- within a 1/8 inch- so anyone have any ideas why one wheel is back in wheel opening 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch- not centered- wife followed me and says it is not dog tracking so now what should I check-

Sometime in its 65 year life it could have had (1)a replacement fender or (2) been hit and the frame is trapezoidal or kinked or (3) the differential is bent or (4) spring mounts are installed back/forth in the wrong place.

If you can find a drive on lift, that along with a tape measure and a frame dimension drawing, spend an hour taking measurements.

Thanks Jerry and IC2:

I'll do it- The mounts measure out the same in relation to the frame- the springs are the same- so I'll start checking frame- it's not that much out but it bugs me-

Have you measured the actual wheelbase both sides? When you say the springs are the same does that include where the locator pin is in relation to the eys? Is the locator hole on the axles spring pad in the same position? Just some thoughts that come to mind that haven't been written.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Have you measured the actual wheelbase both sides? When you say the springs are the same does that include where the locator pin is in relation to the eys? Is the locator hole on the axles spring pad in the same position? Just some thoughts that come to mind that haven't been written.

All good suggestions- I'll be checking in a day or two- Thanks!

another thing, has the body ever been off the frame ? it may have been refitted a bit out of line, or the body mounting bolts might have come loose over the years,
when i mounted my body back on the frame i had the same problem, i just bolted it straight up without checking and my right rear was sitting back in the guard. i loosened the body mounts and measured from frame to body front and rear and got it all centred on the frame and it solved my problem.
barnsey

I could see putting a mustang IFS under there real quick. Nice looking ride did you bring it back through the U.P.?