Thread: T modified
-
05-14-2011 06:40 PM #16
Well, i guess the pics just come out in whatever order. The next pic shows both rails formed and they are closely aligned in the front so i guess i did something right. I then made a cut in front of the firewall - i could not figure out how to stretch the metal i would not have made the cut - and pulled the rails back out and added the front crossmember. The final pics show the reshaped frame sitting as it belongs and there isn't any clamps holding it there.
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
05-17-2011 06:55 PM #17
I've got the holes and a couple cracks welded up in the right rail, to get the front low i made a 7deg cut in front of the firewall and another just behind the crossmember. The pics show the cut and the welded rail sitting back on the jig to compare with the other rail.
I'm working on the left rail now and will have it done tomorrow. And i have cut out a 10" kick for the rear crossmember, i may get it done tomorrow as well.
I am having a problem with the motor placement, who'da thunk dept, it is too tall! A buddy was picking up some stuff today and looked at everything and said the motor would be higher than the cowl! I've been focusing on suspension stuff and angles etc never gave the motor a thought other than 'yup, there it is' kinda thing. That motor is about 27" tall! A sbc is about 20" from oil pan bottom to top of valve cover. I have a couple ideas that i can do and the hood could get a couple functional blisters running the full length for the cam cover clearance and that might work.
-
05-17-2011 10:34 PM #18
Cool project with some great choices for the powertrain and suspension. I'm looking foward to watching this build. Great start already." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
-
05-18-2011 12:15 AM #19
Looking good, Great pictures. This is going to be one sweet ride.
I had an MG with that darn SU carb on it. It never ran right. Webers on a fabricated intake manifold would look cool!
Don Jr.Don Jr.
"Once again I have thoroughly disgusted myself"
-
05-18-2011 07:09 PM #20
Still working on the rails, they're old so need lots of attention. I plated the inside of the rails where i made the pie cut, cut out and machined the rear stubs and kickers, began boxing the rails and pulling the body off the original subframe.
-
05-20-2011 03:00 PM #21
The frame is coming along nicely.
Can't wait to see more.
-
05-27-2011 06:13 AM #22
Had to lay off the frame for a bit while waiting for fuelline and brakeline etc so's i can weld them into the inside of the framerail befor i finish the boxing.
I blew the body apart to its major pieces, scrapping the subframe and crossmembers. I've started making the new subframe and have the body semiassembled on a workbench. I am adding body bracing to tye it to the floor/subframe. When done the body will be set on the frame in one piece and since it has to be so strong i am using 16 & 18ga steel.
-
05-29-2011 05:16 PM #23
Made more progress on the cab, finished boxing the rails and have the fuel line installed. The pics show how i did the fuel line, i welded a 7/16 nut and a 3/8 bushing is a snug fit into it, then i run the 3/8 line thru the bushings.
The can pics showthe subframe pieces, the steel is 16ga - very thick. I wanted it structural because it is combination floor, body support and the seats. I started with the rear filler panel, that panel tyed everything together and once it was in place i made the crossmember - it is under your knees. Once it was tacked then i could do the front to back piece that tyed the crossmember and the rear panel together. This piece also creates a tunnel for a suspension member, the drive shaft is above it. I made formers for the rear panel to the crossmember tye panel, cut the rear out and shaped a trim piece to seal the exposed metal ends and add a little flair. Once that panel was welded in place and tyeing the crossmember to the rear panel i removed the cab back wall and started on the floor rear corners, once they were done i roughed in a panel for the drivers' seat.
-
05-29-2011 05:20 PM #24
Few more pics, in whatever order
-
06-15-2011 02:27 PM #25
I have the seat cushion pockets tackwelded in place and the body setting where it'll go. Remember, all this work - bending the frame rails and making the new subframe - just to sit as low as possible in the car. With this cowl you can stretch your legs out and get as comfortable as possible.
These thre pics show the completed seat area and two views of the body. The steel is 16ga and the body is so strong that i could've hinged a door and it would've opened and closed.
-
06-15-2011 02:34 PM #26
I have yet to start on the front floor boards, i'll wait for a transmission befor i get intop that part. I ran into a big snag, when i set the Jag motor in there it was too long! It is about 10" longer than a sbc and i thought i could hide or minimize it. No way, the hood would've been long enough to launch a flyin turtle and would've looked just as stoopid.
So i made a couple adjustments and decided a V8 would be ok, what do you guys think? We going in the right direction now?
-
06-15-2011 03:46 PM #27
Hell NO!!!! You go back to using that jag motor and package that old boat anchor with the funny looking intake up and send it all down to me.Heck you would be to embarrassed to be seen with that engine in America. At least down under I will be the only one to be seen with that odd engine.I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
-
06-15-2011 03:57 PM #28
Nice try, Whiplash ! Your modified is coming along great. Like the frame and tin work a lot, and that engine fits the look perfectly.
Don
-
06-15-2011 06:17 PM #29
Micah 6:8
If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???
Robin.
-
08-01-2011 07:38 AM #30
Front end stuff and motor mounts
How much did Santa have to pay for his sleigh? Nothing! It's on the house! .
the Official CHR joke page duel