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Thread: 41 New Yorker Coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    123pugsy's Avatar
    123pugsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 41 Chrysler New Yorker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    Thanks Pugsy!
    You're welcome Dave.


    Quote Originally Posted by Rickomatic View Post
    Great software. Thanks!
    No problem Rick.

    Quote Originally Posted by RadRidesByDan View Post
    thanks for the website for the software

    Dan
    Anytime Dan.

    The Engine Analyzer is nice.
    I've ran it twice for free trials. Once at work and once at home.
    I'm out of IP addresses to run it anymore.
    If I remember correctly, its a little over 4 bills. Too rich for my blood.

  2. #47
    123pugsy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stovens View Post
    Pugsy - How did I miss this build? Very cool mods to the original front. Your sheet metal skills are fantastic! The frame and the geometry for the front suspension is seriously some of the most detailed stuff I've seen here. Thank you for posting your build, I look forward to seeing it thru!
    Thanks Steve.

    All these details are taking forever.

    I was out tapping on the front metal on the weekend and man am I having a hard time.
    I tacked everything together before I should have and I'm paying the piper now.
    The shape is way off and its gonna be pretty hard lifting the whole car onto the English wheel to smooth out all the knock dings I've put into it.

    Well, there's always high build primer and bondo I guess.

  3. #48
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    After figuring out the pivot points I started on the sleeves for the ball joints.

    I found some nice steel screw in style sleeves for the upper arms at the local speed shop.
    As I wanted stainless finish, I welded some schedule 80 pipe around the sleeves to weld the arm to.








    For the lowers, I got stock Cobra ball joints.
    These were a little trickier as they are press in
    I used two pieces of schedule 80 pipe for these. I had to cut a sliver out and reweld to the correct size to fit the balljoint. The weld seams ended up under the connection point of the arm to the sleeve to lock everything up for sure.





    The pic below shows the fit of the ball joint after it was pressed out.




  4. #49
    123pugsy's Avatar
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    Here's a beauty move.

    Nice looking lower control arm going together.....







    It would be good if it was going on a train and the wheels didn't have to turn....DOH!




  5. #50
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    I cut the obtrusive pipe off and started on the upper arm to get the wheel turning and to figure out how to get out of the lower arm mess.






    Jigged the upper arms up to weld the sleeves on.





    Got the uppers done and the bushings and sleeves made up.
    I screwed the ball joints in to check things out.



  6. #51
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    I got the lower control arm mess sorted out and finished the coilover mounts and Delrin bushings.













    Of coarse a couple of grease fittings for good measure.



    Last edited by 123pugsy; 05-28-2011 at 06:32 AM.

  7. #52
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    I cut all the pieces for the crossmember and the front kickups and welded them up.






















  8. #53
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    I got the 1'' diameter solid sleeves with 5/8 fine threaded tapped ends tacked in place.
    These are for the steering rack and lower control arms.

    Over the sleeves that protrude are pieces of 1-1/2'' pipe with end caps to stiffen things up some more.
    Everything was chamfered before welding for strength.










    I also got the upper coilover mounts ready and did a little mock up here.




  9. #54
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    I got the crossmember and coilover mounts welded and polished up.









    I then made up the upper control arm mounts.
    My first thought was to use different amount of shims behind the front and rear of the plate to achieve camber and castor. This was a mistake as the plate is solid and shims will need to be applied evenly.

    I had slots milled in the plate and made up some eccentric washers to be able to adjust castor. I got this idea from the bolts used on the Ford upper arms of the IRS.

    Shims behind will adjust camber.














    Last edited by 123pugsy; 05-28-2011 at 07:18 AM.

  10. #55
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    Wow Pugsy it looks great. Nice custom work.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  11. #56
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    Thanks Steve.

    I got the chassis rolling and pushed it outside for the first time.













  12. #57
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    Next thing was to make up some motor mounts to hold up the big block Chevy.











    Then a crossmember for the tranny.
    Its actually going to hold up the Gearvendors overdrive unit so I will be able to weld it in and still be able to pull the tranny no problem.
    The exhaust pipes will run thru the 4'' holes.








  13. #58
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    Man nice work ..You still have snow on the ground and I was (am) complaining about rain
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
    W8AMR
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    Christian in training

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
    Thanks Steve.

    I got the chassis rolling and pushed it outside for the first time.
    Beautiful work Pugsy but I hope those shots weren't taken recently.....your weather usually comes our way and I hoped we were through with the white stuff.
    Remember, Freedom isn't Free, thousands have paid the price so you can enjoy what you have today.

    Duct tape is like 'The Force.' It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.

  15. #60
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    Next thing to do was to start the exhaust system.
    I started with 4 pcs of 3'' dia stainless for the X pipe.













    Then some elbows were added at the front and back.
    I'm using Dynamax Ultraflow Welded mufflers. I hope its not too loud.





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