Thread: 1949 IHC KB-3 Project

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LMAO.......that aint no poor mans english wheel..........that will outlast most professional one out there.

The anvil set.....is that the English Wheel 7 piece Set by Hoosier Profiles?

Originally Posted by 123pugsy

Most important thing (other than a shot bag) is a stump and a big hammer to tuck shrink with unless all your panels are low crown and can be done on the wheel.
A lot of guys use baseball bats to make hammers.

Had shaved down an old ball bat but the wood split in half on the first blow......then i was told by my dad who is retired that the ball bat was about 50 years old.....LMAO......oh well. I guess other things dry up with age other than people....LMAO

Yes, they're Hoosier wheels.

Do yourself a favour and find a bearing if you can for the top wheel.
A lot of guys use them and they're hard and run true.

the top wheel is metal........Im not too worried about having it 100% true ....if its 98-99% Ill be happy......this is for minor panel work.....later in life I will buy actual die set and wheel. Right now I cant afford the bigger monies.

Thanks for the info on the wheel bearing for top wheel

You got some cool tools, Dan. Someday I want to learn the English wheel technique and get one for myself. Always wanted one after watching Jessie James build a tank for a chopper with one on his show.

Originally Posted by falconvan

You got some cool tools, Dan. Someday I want to learn the English wheel technique and get one for myself. Always wanted one after watching Jessie James build a tank for a chopper with one on his show.

What you see there arent my tools......those are 123pugsy's stuff that he showed to me what he had built......he's the one with some cool tools.....LMAO....I tried to make afew teardrop mallots out of an old ball bat....turned out nce...but on the first strike they split right down the middle. The bat was older than thought to be. Ill be building most of my tools ovr the winter and setting up the frame level so that when spring comes along i'll be ready to do some major work.

The hammer in the pic with the ''stump'' is made from an oak stairway newel post.
I cut a piece off, stuck it on the lathe and spun her up.
I had enough to make a nice pointy one to move steel quick.

Keep your eyes peeled for anything made of oak or maple and you can make some nice hammers.

I started the fabrication of the english wheel frame....got the 4x2x 3/16 thick welded....now to fab the wheel holders and tension adjuster

Well after considerable thinking.....I have come down to a decision about the rear tires.....I always loved prostreet cars and trucks and this is a time where i might as well go big.

SO......I will going with a set of Hoosier's 31x18.5x15 rear....something like these......



On a set of either one of these wheels......15x14 rear with 5 inch backspace which should give me a -3.5 offset
And the fronts will be 17x6 with P205/50R17 tires

Just finished doing a calculation of the rear frame and axle width and this is what I have come out with.
The overall width of the truck.....side wall to sidewall will be 66 inches. I read as rule of thumb to add 5 inches more to the housing flang to flange width for the axles hub to hub width....I hope Im correct.

Here is the diagram.....If I have made any errors in my calculations please feel free to speak up.....as this is the first time I will be narrowing a rear end for a project. The axle housing is the most important to me.

The most important measurement is from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. I've found that the best way to figure rear end width is to have the tires and wheels that I'll be running under the car and where I want them setting in the wheel wells, then measure the distance between the inner mounting surfaces of the wheels.... Most refer to this as the flange width.... If you're going to be running rear disc brakes, another consideration is that the wheel diameter leaves room for the brake calipers. You will also need to add in the width of the brake rotors or drums to get your correct rear end dimensions, many leave this out, then wonder why the wheels stick out further then what they had calculated them to be!!!!

Well, today I cut off the back half of the truck frame to make room for the new rails. over the next few weeks I will be doing lots of measuring before I even think of fabricating....definately want to get it right the first time.