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Thread: 32 Roadster Identification
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
    Posts
    3,890

    Before you go too far, read this: http://www.michigan.gov/documents/BF...3__83315_7.pdf. It tells you how to register an assembled vehicle in Michigan. If you don't prepare for this, you will be in a world of hurt. You also might want to talk to someone who has registered an assembled vehicle there. State DMVs can be a serious headache for guys like us.

    Oh, and also read this: SOS - Your Title
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 07-06-2011 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Additional information
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  2. #2
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    May 2004
    Location
    Ashland
    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 fendered roadster
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    2,160

    Well that is my first mistake this year. I yield to Mick and Bob. I understand about the "parallelogram" aspect of the four bar link and we do seem to agree that the I-beam can twist a bit (although I find it hard to believe it flexes more than a few thousanths of an inch). Anyway I went through that thought process backwards intending to use split wishbones first from a Model A front end and then considered a '40 Ford front end so I have been thinking I-beam all along. When two Model A frames turned out to have rust problems I bit the bullet for a Brookville frame which arrived with a four bar set up and I purchased a 5" drop I-beam so now I have an I-beam four bar which is OK as far as I can tell. So a four bar set up is OK with either tube or I-beam axels but the tube does need the four bar for less stress. The way I got to this thinking error was in considering split wishbones to save money and in either case ('40 or Model A) the "knuckle" of the wishbone on the axel boss would have provided a twist on a tube axel which the four bar is designed to eliminate or reduce. I note that the original stock Ford front end mounting placed the wishbone center on a "ball joint" to allow side-to-side play and that it is the act of splitting the wishbones that causes the axel twist. Apparently the four bar mount solves this problem and the main cause for alarm is the split wishbone configuration. Sorry about the confusion.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
    Last edited by Don Shillady; 07-06-2011 at 02:02 PM.

  3. #3
    gearjammer's Avatar
    gearjammer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2011
    Location
    Troy
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    18

    Well guys I found out where my roadster came from, teh kit was purchased from HB Classic Street Rods. The body was built by Heritage in 94, the chassis was built by Williams Street Rods in 95 and the car has sit till I picked it up.

    I see I have a lot of work ahead of me, and Dave my 1st. leg in this build will be to remove the body and verify the chassis squareness and go from there.

    Thanks again for all you thoughts, wishes and help

    Phil

  4. #4
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2007
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    UPSTATE New York
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    Not too bad a combination. The original Heritage wasn't a bad body tho after a couple of new owners in the past few years, the quality began to suffer(being kind!!). They may be gone now. Williams is still around though I have no knowledge of what they are doing and the quality of their products.

    Really doesn't make any difference. You own it and we'll help you spend your hard earned dollars building the car.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

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