Thread: Project "Left Overs" is back alive !

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Don, VERY NICE. You guys are good.

Soooooo Don-----

Am I forgiven??????

Jerry, I'm the one who needs forgiven, and I'm happy to see we are still friends. I truly am sorry for my childishness. You were just trying to help me.

Thanks Jim and Charlie. Jim, there are several parts that go between the crank flange and the torque convertor to take up that distance of about 6 inches. First you put on an inch thick spacer onto the crank flange, and then the flexplate. Next a big round spacer goes onto that (it is about 4 or 5 inches long), and finally a triangular plate that bolts to the convertor. The flexplate is way inside the extended Olds bellhousing, in it's usual spot, and all this extra stuff is just there to reach back to fit up to the new torque convertor on the TH350. I'll post some pictures later showing how all the pieces go.

I'm rethinking the chain. Won't know until I get to that stage, but it might look goofy now that I think about it. The car is changing a little as it comes together. I am also starting to look for a starter that will work. I have an aftermarket lower bellhousing that was sold back in the 50's and 60's to move the starter to the right side for steering box clearance. Problem is, the companies are gone and no one remembers what starter these were supposed to take. I tried my stock Olds starter, upside down, and it won't clear the pan. I asked Bob Bendtsen, and he said "nobody knows what starter will fit." He has a few of those adapters and hasn't found any starter to fit yet. A guy on the HAMB sells a mini starter for Olds engines, and that might be my way out, but I have to find out if it will mesh with my flexplate tooth count.

Dan did a nice job on those mounts. My main contribution was helping to cut the steel, and he did the pretty much the rest. I WAS pretty proud of myself that I actually was able to drill the 7/16 bolt holes right on, because usually I have to egg shape holes to get the bolts in. Either I'm getting better or more lucky.

Don

Do you have any of the transfer point screw punches???think they are made by Ridget??

No, but I think I know what you mean, Jerry. They look like setscrews with points on them so when you screw them in the points will contact the piece and leave a mark when you tap with a hammer ? I was tempted to grind some bolts to a point just for that purpose. I am going to have to buy some of those in various sizes.

What I did on this job was I screwed some bolts into the adapter plate from the backside and let the tip protrude a little. Then I put masking tape on the engine mount and tapped with a hammer to leave a mark on the tape. From there it was easy to mark the center, punch it, and then drill a pilot hole. But those screw punches would make it easier.

Don

when you get the transfer srews, you'll feel like slappin yourself every time you use them for not getting them earlier!!!!!

This is what I used at GE when doing miscellaneous machine work. They are many years old, but still in very good condition. And yes, they are mine, not hot!!

Transfer Tools.JPG

AMAZON (and others) still have them - and wowee did they get pricey - $119. My recollection is that I paid (from my Snap-on guy, no less) about $15-$20 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Center-Exp.../dp/B001C1D67K

Wow you and Dan make nice stuff! I think Jim and Charlie and Jerry are right on that this will work well. The screw punches Jerry posted about would save me tons of grief. No matter how acurate I mark stuff, the drilling always seems off!

McMaster----

Transfer screw point number 3385A22 for 7/16-14---most all numbers are 3385xxx but McMaster-Carr will get you there

How do you use those, exactly ?

Don

there are usually maybe 6 that come in a tube that is the handle for installing/adjusting the depth of them. you use the size of the hole/thread for the hole you want to transfer--adjust so the pointed tip sticks up a bit above the surface and then tap the material you want the hole in over the points---gices you the center point for drilling---I will usually then take a regular center punch and wack it a little bit more so the drill won't wonder--

Ok, Jerry, I get it now. I am going to pick up a set of those. Thanks.

Tonight Dan and Don helped me put the engine back on the completed mounts and we must have measured right, because it went right down on all four holes........almost like we knew what we were doing.

Here are a couple of pictures of the bare frame and then the motor sitting on all 4 mounts. Now I can make up the transmission crossmember.

Don

yep them work nice but i am cheap so i just hand thread set screws in back wards and give the plate a blast with a hammer you can use thin jam nut on the sets if you have the room make them up before hand with a small bit of loc-tie on the nut so you can back them out or just grind two flats on the sets to back them out. more then two holes i drill some hole to size then bolt up plate to keep the lay out from moving

Lots of times I'll use a transfer punch chucked into drill chuck on milling machine to center up on the mark from the transfer screw. This allows a bit more accuratcy and if its real technical(like when I was doing some fab work on stock block Indy cars) I would use a dial circle thingie!!!( what are they called???)

With the mill operation it is possible to record the deminsions as you move from hole to hole and more easily build repeat items--

i use a 1/8 drill and watch if it hit,s the punch mark on center if not on center it will bow the drill or pop off the center mark . i move the table till it hit dead on lock it down or you can use a wiggler .yep a mill takes all the fun out of it