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07-30-2011 01:50 AM #61
That looks good,Don..I dont think you will have any strength issues with that frame..That would even pass muster down here with our certification system,,We have a minimum of 3x2x about 4mm wall thickness..(I think).Micah 6:8
If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???
Robin.
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07-30-2011 06:41 AM #62
Just subscribing so I don't miss any important chaptersDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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07-30-2011 09:22 AM #63
Lamin8r, what does 4 mm relate to in inches ?...........I'm terrible with math.
Don
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07-30-2011 09:45 AM #64
.157'' or approx 5/32""Pugsy
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07-30-2011 09:46 AM #65
Don - I'll bet he's in bed now.
1mm = .039 inches
25.4mm = 1 inch
4mm = .157 inch
.157 = ~5/32nds
Guess I have to be quicker then the standard CanadianDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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07-30-2011 09:59 AM #66
Ah, that is almost 3/16, so they really do hold them to a high standard. Thanks guys for doing the math for me.
Realistically, I could have used 1/8 inch wall for this one, especially since I went 2 x 4, but I just feel better with the extra thickness there. (Well, I'm not feeling so good about it this morning............every muscle is hurting from lifting that baby last night, and it keeps getting heavier all the time. ) We were laughing about it last night because it took four big guys to carry Dan's frame one time, and they were straining. We might err on the side of heavy when we build these things.
Don
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07-30-2011 11:04 AM #67
is it a line bore or line hone ? most engines never need a line bore as the mass of iron round the mains hold them true less its lived a hard life or hurt or block has moved . hone works ok for taken small amonts out to true every thing in . there many names of machines .Tobin Arp .Sunnen .AMC. Breco .RMC . Rottler.Storm Vulcan.KwikWay.Peterson..Winona Van Norman. Scledum.Robbi.DMC tech .i have a Tobin ARP TA 14 .it will do all the engines that i work on when i need the line bore re bored .it has arms that hold the bore bar in front and in back of each main cap as you bore .it takes more time but you have no bore bar whip like i have got back from a shop in town that did my blocks till i pick up the tobin arp. not so big it takes up all the shop .many of the machines come from IndiaLast edited by pat mccarthy; 07-30-2011 at 11:51 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-30-2011 11:49 AM #68
Don nice shots of the frame build. For people like me who have never built a frame from scratch, it is cool to see the step by step process. I like the Jet bandsaw, by the way. I bet that thing comes in handy!
On the engine balancing thing, I'm certainly not the expert here, but 200 bucks for insurance, seems reasonable. I'm not sure what they do to balance it, but this build being as special as it has been for Dan, I think he'll feel better if it's done, and not second guess that he should have gone with it, later down the line, after its back together. You guys continue to amaze me with the stuff you can do, litterally almost making a car from scratch!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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07-30-2011 09:26 PM #69
Dunno,,I couldnt remember either.. Just had a look at the LVVTA manual,that we use for guidelines..and we are still allowed to use 3x2 box with 1/8''wall,but a lot of guys are using 1/4'' wall..Minimum size..
Yes,Dave W,,I was asleep,,it was 4.22am when Don asked the question.. If you want to have a look at what we have to do to put a scratch built car on the road in NZ,,try this out..
Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association Incorporated..
You will probably need a degree in lawyer speak to understand it..Makes ya read it a couple of times before you actually do anything..sorta read twice,cut once,if ya get my drift..Micah 6:8
If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???
Robin.
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07-30-2011 11:36 PM #70
Pat, I may be using the wrong term when I say "align bored". It may be that he just hones it to true everything up. The machine I saw had thick steel plates that grabbed the block (block was upside down in the machine) and it had a fixture going through the cam bearing holes, and another fixture going into the main caps. I only looked briefly and didn't know what I was looking at anyway.
Steve, that bandsaw has been one of the best investments we made, well actually that Dan made. He bought that some years ago and I couldn't even begin to guess how many cuts it has made and how troublefree it has been. It still has the original belt on it and we have only replaced the blade maybe 4 or 5 times in all those cuts. Every time we make a cut with it, especially some odd angle or shape, we say "How would we do this without this saw?" and in fact I just said that tonight as we were cutting some stuff.
As for the frame creation, I really have to give credit for those to Dan. I'm prejudiced, of course, but he is really smart when it comes to figuring out how to do something the right way. I had one vision for what I wanted this frame to be, and he took it to the next level, and he usually does that when he gets involved with one of my builds. He drives me nuts sometimes because he won't bend, but in the end he is usually right.
And now...........TA DA !!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a (mostly) finished frame to post pictures of. Dan and I worked on getting the front and rear crossmembers built and welded in place, and got the initial grinding done. I love the way it came out. It is perfectly square, very strong, and will give me a great platform to build the rpu on. Now I can start making a front perch and getting the front suspension figured out. Once that is done I can move on to the backside. The plan seems to be that I am going to use a four bar setup with coil overs. None of it will show, so a more modern rear suspension won't detract from the old timey look I want.
Here are some pictures from tonight. We are both tired and sore, but feeling pretty happy right now. This is the look I was after. I didn't want the usual round front crossmember, and once the perch is in place and the Moon tank mounted it will look much narrower. The frame is 25 1/2 inches wide in front and 34 1/2 wide in back.
DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 07-30-2011 at 11:43 PM.
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07-31-2011 01:48 AM #71
yep,,nice looking frame,Don..I,too,noticed that flash saw,and thought it would be a neat addition to any workshop,,and then thought,,,nah,dont need one,most of my work is in glass...Micah 6:8
If we aren't supposed to have midnight snacks,,,WHY is there a light in the refrigerator???
Robin.
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07-31-2011 07:38 AM #72
Thanks, Lamin8r. From time to time we use that saw to cut lumber too. Anytime we need to cut down a 2 x 4 or other piece of wood we toss it in there and it goes through it like butter.
Don
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07-31-2011 07:55 AM #73
Don your threads (builds) are most intertaining and educational. When I get up early or can't sleep at night I sit and read them sometimes more than once. Just thought I'd let you in on that. And ThanksCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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07-31-2011 09:12 AM #74
sounds like a sunnen/RMC or Rottler machine center were it deck s bore s and line bores the block in one setting good way to go if your only doing one engine at a time its only about $80.000 with some toolingLast edited by pat mccarthy; 07-31-2011 at 10:44 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-31-2011 10:42 AM #75
Don that frame is looking beefy. What do you guys figure it weighs as is welded together now? I can't imagine it's much fun lugging it around at this point! What plans for paint? Powder coat or home spray? I know your going for a distressed look, so I was just curious!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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