Thread: 1966 Fairlane finally about done

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Mike, oil pressure dropping as rpm increase would make me wonder if it's dumping over a relief, either the filter or in the oil system. Could it be the filter is marginal and can't take the increased rate of flow when rpms increase?

Very nice!

".....I've ran into some poorly made guide plates, went to the adjustable ones and no more problems!!! ....."

Dave, I took a closer look at the guide plates/pushrods today, 5/16" pushrods and 3/8" guide plates, so one or the other needs replaced. After looking at the guide plates there are at least a couple that don't look like they will center both pushrods properly at the same time, so the recommendation is going to be using adjustable guide plates.

"....Mike, oil pressure dropping as rpm increase would make me wonder if it's dumping over a relief, either the filter or in the oil system. Could it be the filter is marginal and can't take the increased rate of flow when rpms increase?...."

Bob, that was my first thoughts yesterday when I did the road test and discovered the problem. I have read it particularity possible when using Fram filters (which is what the owner had me put on when we dropped the initial break-in oil out of it). I didn’t mention it in the previous post, but I put on a new WIX filter yesterday (with no improvement).

I also pulled the distributor out to make sure the base where the oil pump drive shaft goes hadn’t started to split and slip on the oil pump drive (a problem I’ve seen in the past).

Pulling the valve cover was to verify that I didn’t have plugged drain back holes and that was when I discovered the problem with the pushrod/guide plates.

All of this is combined with the oil leak I haven’t been able to fix. I think I’ve really pretty much exhausted the simple checks and it’s down to R&R the engine.

Mike--couple thingies---

Didn't some of those 351 engines use rockers that centered/guided on the valve tips???

Also--looks like some valves have longer tips than others(sorta like those for the tip centered rockers)

And, it appears that it is those valves that are the farthest off center???

Anyway---I think the valve spring/retainers are about to(or do) touch the rockers on some of the valves and the others are way up in the air---

Jerry, as far as I know there were 3 types of stock rockers used on these over the years; a stamped steel rocker (similar to the stock SBC), a fulcrum style and the cast rail type that as you say centers on the valve tip. These valves would normally use the rail type, which if it were my engine is what it would have. I don’t really trust the no name roller tip rockers like these appear to be as I have seen the results of loosing a roller and dropping a valve.

As far as the length of the valve tip and how close the rockers are to the retainers, I just walked over and looked at them that is mostly the angle of the picture. The valve stems all look to be the same length with adequate retainer clearance. It really looks like a good set of guide plates will fix this problem.

With what I’m seeing so far in this motor, I really am wondering what other surprises I’m going to find inside (provided the customers lets me take it apart like I feel it should be).

beginning May 2, 1966, Ford went to rocker arms that centered on the valve tips------------

Your engine has mis matched components

Oil pressure--be sure to check for galleu plug behind the distributor

Thought I’d add an update.

I talked to the customer and made my recommendation. He elected to just put in guide plates (a used set he brought over) and oil pump.

I got the “new” guide plates in and although there were a couple I wasn’t real happy with I got them close enough I think they’ll live.

The oil pump was interesting. What was in the car was a Melling high volume standard pressure unit. The gasket stayed on the pump when I pulled it and this is the first thing I noticed.




I pulled the gasket off and put it on the block and it matches perfectly with the oil port in the block, so basically the output port in the pump was mis-drilled off center and set up a pretty good restriction where the ports are supposed to match up at the mating surface. It really kind of surprises me as I have used a lot of Melling pumps over the years and never had a problem with them, but this one should never have gotten thru quality control.

Anyway I pulled the pump apart and other than a little light scoring on the valve there was nothing else obvious wrong I could see.

I put a new standard volume/standard pressure pump back in it. The oil pressure now stays steady and actually is about 5-10 pounds higher than it was with the HV pump.

The biggest thing is the oil leak at the rear of the engine now appears to be fixed. I still think the seal area on the crank is probably marginal, as it should not have leaked with a HV standard pressure pump.

Anyway it should be out of my shop again this week.


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Strange deal Mike.... Maybe it's not a Melling, but a knock-off?? Might be interesting to put it in a box along with a note and send it to Melling. There stuff is usually a lot better then that! Was there any sort of mis-match on the pickup tube where it bolts to the pump? Lifters should work a whole lot better with the correct size guide plates!!!!!

Dave I like your idea about sending it to Melling. The pickup tube mated up fine.

In the long run this pump starting to fail was probably the best thing that could have happened to the engine, otherwise I don't think the valve train probelm would have been discovered until parts started breaking.