Thread: '66 Chevelle, big block
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05-29-2012 01:49 PM #1
'66 Chevelle, big block
Heres' a sweetie i been working on for a while now. I have the new engine just about all settled in.
Its' a 632 with 715-815ftlbs of torque.
I have done a couple other threads about this car as i have been getting it to this stage. It is an original big block, 4spd car with all the gingerbreadding. The numbers did not match. The gm stuff i have replaced have been tucked away for anybody that wants to put the car back to nearly original condition.
To date: 9" ford rear w/ hotchkiss suspension; detroit speed front suspension and 2" drop spindles' wilwood discs on all corners; tremec 6spd; mcloed 2 disc clutch, quicktimes can; billet specialities serpentine system, vintage air underdash unit and the air conditioning works; detriot speed power steering; fabricated removable trans tunnel; fabricated radiator stuff.
I politely passed on making the headers, the car is leaving for Kooks' Headers in a couple of days.
There were a couple pics of back when i did the tranny and i included them so you can see how big the tremec is. When the factory console is in place you can't tell it is modified or that a muncie isn't there.Last edited by ojh; 05-29-2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: spelling
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05-29-2012 02:50 PM #2
I like it! Beautiful work - thanks for sharing!
Glenn"Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil
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05-29-2012 02:53 PM #3
Sweet to put it mildlyCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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05-29-2012 03:52 PM #4
did the headers on my gto 2 1/4 tube was not bad. and 2 3/8 them were not as much fun. but with my 632 donovan there was some work on the streering column and in need of streering joints if you want all header tubes in side the frame and not slip fit headers . any time you put the 10.200 block in a GM A body there abit of work to do.i done it couple of times . car looks nice... But.. i hop this guy know how to drive. that engine is close to what the 572 i had in the gto for making steam and with a stick he will have a very hard time to hang on to it. if you have not you will want to box the frame it helps and box the rear cross member rear mount points so by chance it ever hook up good you do not rip it outLast edited by pat mccarthy; 05-29-2012 at 06:52 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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05-30-2012 06:09 AM #5
Thanks for the advice Pat. I can see 2 1/4 to 2 3/8 step headers with fabricated inner fenders and modified steering (maybe hydraulic T-O bearing as well).
He heard from Kooks' yesterday that they can't get it into thier shop until the middle of June, so it'll be a while before i can do a followup.
We might do a gear change, right now it is 3.77 and i'm thinking it should go to about 3.0 or maybe under? Any thoughts? 28" tall radial rear tire.
Yes, it will be a handfull to drive. Especially when the road is wet as it has a very agressive locker.
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05-30-2012 07:46 AM #6
i have a 35 spline locker in the gto i do not care for it much . i never had step tubes my race gto was a 572 that had 2 3/8 tubes in that car . the 66 red car street car had has many bbc s and has had last two sets of headers i made for the 468then 548 and i could get that set to fit the 572 when i had it in the car . rework the steering then at that time lowered the center link made new idle arm and pittman arm cut most of the front cossmember out and box it to lower the engine for the oilpan i made for the donovan then made a new set of headers. i done every thing you can just about think of i done to the Gm A body frame in the last 30 years. on the 29 tires. i had a set under the gto did not care for the look . on the gear whats first gear in the trans ? .there is no way you can drive the car with out sticky tires . you will never drive the car on wet roads in the wet . this guy less he has had many very fast street cars.. has no clue what he has... no joking someone can get hurt . takes a new way for some to drive a car like that on the street.you need to watch man hole covers as they can be slick and will pull the car sideways . dew on the side of the road at night . on the gto till the car gets up on the back tires you can not put good power down this car has been known for carring the front tires in 2 gear. just ask freddy at becoolLast edited by pat mccarthy; 05-31-2012 at 06:36 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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05-31-2012 06:13 PM #7
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Sweet build! It'll be a monster when it's done!Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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08-03-2012 06:27 AM #8
Well, time for an update. I sent it off to Kooks' Headers in NC, they did a beautiful job making the headers and entire stainless exhaust.
They sent it back last week and i was able to get back on it and finished it up this week. I took it next door where they stuck an inspection sticker on it and i gave it a short test ride yesterday evening. Man, this thing has got some power! 1st gear was very managable and putted around just fine - you just don't want to push your foot down unless theres lots of room around you.
I took it out of town a couple miles and came back, the carb is getting trash from something, the idle ckt is screwed and it acts like the floats are too high. But i never got out of 4th and wondered why there is 2 more gears in the tranny.
I'll get some pics of the exhaust.
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08-04-2012 06:04 AM #9
Man-o-man what a job getting this thing to act right! This is a brand new aed dominator that came with the engine. When i test drove it i had a low rpm/mph surge and it wouldn't idle right. I back the idle adjustment screws out as far as possible and that helped. The idle air bleeds have no numbers and i don't have a complete drill set to figure out what they are (.070ish i'd say), i went into the idle restrictors and found them to be .031ish. I drilled them to .035 and set the carb back on the engine and connected it to the innovative LM2, the afr was still 20ish. I then drilled the restrictors to .041 and now the afr is 13ish and the idle screws are still at the end of adjustment.
I think i'll strart dropping the idle bleeds (instead of drilling the idle restrictors any more) down until i get 12ish afr with the idle screws at about 3/4 turn.
What do you guys think?
Thanks!! I usually do the "NZ Slang" lookup but decided to poke the bear this time! ;):D:p
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