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08-28-2013 10:34 PM #46
crikey that looks great.did he use a rotisserie to blast it over and under or did he do it on the trailor.how much of it could he not get at?reason i ask is i hadn't considered media blasting for when i do my next vehicle, i had only thought of dipping it.
keep up the good work
mark
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08-29-2013 05:34 AM #47
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
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- CENTRAL FLORIDA
- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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Hey Mark,
Every inch of the car was blasted so I assume that some sort of method to get under the car was used. When I did the build on my 36 Ford I had it dipped and ran into problems. Dispite my best efforts, I was not able to neturalize all the resuidal left in some of the tight cracks and crevices causing the paint to lift in some spots. Fortunately, it was all on the inside so no harm, no foul.
It did, however, steer me away from chemical dipping.Last edited by TerpnGator; 08-29-2013 at 01:32 PM.
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09-03-2013 06:41 PM #48
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Very nice work! I've heard a lot of guys say they shy away from chemical dips unless the car can sit for 12-18 months and air out. So in other words, they don't do it. Someday I'd like to do to my 40 what you are your 39. Completely remove everything and do it all. Maybe later. hahaRyan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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09-09-2013 09:01 PM #49
- Join Date
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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09-09-2013 09:14 PM #50
- Join Date
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- CENTRAL FLORIDA
- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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So--some of the body panels, and the body proper, had a few nick and dings in the so I'm in the process of finding them, hammer and dolly and skim coat.
I blocked off most of the putty that I put on.
01A-body-work-progress3.jpg
The doors weren't the worst of it. The front and rear fenders were pretty dinged up also
01A-body-work-progress1.JPG
Rear doors
01A-body-work-progress2.JPG
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09-09-2013 09:31 PM #51
- Join Date
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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The guys that stripped the car were a little concerned about doing the hood because it's pretty thin with not much backing.
01A-body-work-hood2.jpg
Warping was a concern so I opted to strip it by hand 40 year old lacquer paint done NOT like to come off.
01A-body-work-hood3.jpg
Finally, after half a box of 80 grit, got it stripped----
01A-body-work-hood1.jpg
Disassembled and in primer
01A-body-work-hood4.jpg
01A-body-work-hood5.jpg
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09-10-2013 05:37 AM #52
WOW, that's looking good! Thanks for the update..
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09-10-2013 08:30 AM #53
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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09-10-2013 10:56 AM #54
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09-10-2013 11:05 AM #55
Looks great. Hood looks new!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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09-10-2013 05:27 PM #56
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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The body proper is in very good shape. I've got a few small spots on the top and sides above the rear fenders. I cut all of the old lead out of the body and replace with DuraGlass. Fewer problem when it comes to painting.
01A-BodyProper2.JPG
01A-BodyProper1.JPG
I need to weld up all the openings in the deck lid. Electric popped and I'm installing a back up camera also.
01A-DeckLid1.jpg
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09-11-2013 05:54 PM #57
- Join Date
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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So--When I started on the rear fenders I discovered that where the running board bolts into the bottom of the rear fender, there is a backing brace to support the running board. Under that brace was a ton of rust and rot.
Cut the old brace out and cut out all the rust.
01A-RearFender1.jpg
01A-RearFender2.jpg
Fabed up a new brace from 16ga steel and welded it in.
01A-RearFender3.jpg
Welded up the holes where the rust was.
01A-RearFender6.jpg01A-RearFender4.jpg[
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09-11-2013 09:34 PM #58
Wow, another great build! All this in one year is amazing. I'll look forward
to see how you like the Air Ride, look's great. I upgraded from buggy spring to
coil overs this time, and had looked at Air Ride.
Take care, Rich
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09-12-2013 04:01 AM #59
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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09-12-2013 06:14 PM #60
- Join Date
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- CENTRAL FLORIDA
- Car Year, Make, Model: 1939
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I pondered buying fiberglass fenders, but after seeing a 37 Chevy that had glass fenders front and rear, I decided to keep everything steel.
The rear fenders needed a little attention besides the rust. The previous owner really didn't try to hammer & dolly any of the dents out. Look like he just puttied right over everything.
01A-RearFender7.jpg
01A-RearFender8.jpg
Got everything straightened out and skim coated.
01A-RearFender9.jpg
Block sanded and ready for final sanding. I still need to install a flush fit fuel fill door.
01A-RearFender10.jpg
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