Thread: 55 Wagon Progress

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Originally Posted by BBB

i have been reading your post and am trying to access video 232 and 233 on the photobucket link you posted. i can only see stills. any help or suggestions on how to see these two videos. thanks for any help you can give me.

Found them... That was some "hammer forming" we did for the inner portion of the rear lift gate.. We used some Phenolic sheet to create the hammer form below, and it was clamped in the vise along with our panel for the lift gate...









This creates the angled plateau for the window retaining clips..



Videos show the process used.. Excuse the ringing, the hammer handle is a bit loose..









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Lowered price, shipping offered...


Year end sale, last chance for a tax deduction for the year.

Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1500. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. This one has the fully functioning back gauge, a must have for repeat bends. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1900, less than half of what similar ones are on eBay for. Stand has a full shelf for storage of dies. These brakes are 24” wide and rated at 16 gauge capacity. Ideal for a small shop or home garage where space is a premium.

I would prefer the buyer come and kick the tires, and we can load onto your truck/trailer. Located in Leonardtown Maryland. We can help prep for shipping if needed, buyer pays all shipping costs. I also have a second one if someone would like a package deal..

















Back gauge in operation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiSnrZCJC_g

Second machine, lowered price, shipping offered..

Year end sale, last chance for a tax deduction for the year.


Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1353. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. These are two sets of radius dies. Yes they are different heights, we just installed both to better display what goes with the machine. This brake is missing some parts of the back gauge. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1600, less than half of what similar ones are on eBay for. Stand has a full shelf for storage of dies. These brakes are 24” wide and rated at 16 gauge capacity. Ideal for a small shop or home garage where space is a premium.


I would prefer the buyer come and kick the tires, and we can load onto your truck/trailer. Located in Leonardtown Maryland. We can help prep for shipping if needed, buyer pays all shipping costs. I do have two available if someone would like a package deal.

After about 1 1/2 hrs this morning I finally found the information you needed to reference the hammer forming vidios I had asked about. I came on to give you the information and saw that you had already posted it. I apologize for not getting to this sooner and you having to do the work. Nice videos with great information (as usual).Thanks

Not a problem, glad to help out!


Well we are about to get started on some automotive electrical work when the wagon returns from Upholstery, and in an attempt to limit/eliminate any need for butt splices, I was looking around for various automotive "W" crimp terminals that were available. I found a gem of a store, www.repairconnector.com that carries much of the old style crimp on terminals, as well as some of the newer stuff. We do have some new light fixtures going in, and to help in eliminating excessive connections (ie: butt splices) I found they carry the replacement terminals for lamp base sockets.. (and terminals for fuse blocks, and.....)


Some of the terminals we just picked up from Repair Connector





Typical replacement light housing has pigtails that will require some type of splice...





New lamp base terminals from Repair Connector









These terminals will help us get rid of some splices..





If you have a need to repair/replace any of your automotive electrical wiring, give them a look, they may have something you can use..

Wagon update, we stopped by Norris Upholstery on Saturday to check on the progress and go over some door panel design ideas. Getting closer!


































Back in the shop, Mike and I got the assembly line action going on the hidden bumper brackets. These weld to the back side of the bumpers for hidden fastening and the slot allows for slight adjustment side to side. This idea was shared with me by Laszlo Nobi.

Looking good!

That's just slicker than snot.

Busy weekend, Norris Upholstery is in the process of getting the door panels done..







We plan on using the original stainless that was used on the door panels but some of the factory "nails" that get folded over were very fatigued and in some cases, gone..







To try and fix these we needed a machine that would weld on new nails, which were originally .06 diameter. Using a dent puller stud welder would require resistance welding, which means heat generated. Not good. We have a local sign shop, A&A MetalWorks, that has a Capacitive Discharge stud welder that does not produce the same type of heat.. He did not have the small studs needed so I picked up some of the type that fits the dent puller. Since a collet was needed, Allen dropped off one of his larger collets and Mike became more fluent on a worn out South Bend this weekend, making a collet so we could do a trial run... Here's a collet for a 1/4-20 stud, our sample...







Mike in action....











Our fabricated collet, borrowing some parts from the sample...







Testing out the welder, we did have to reshape the ends of the studs to have a point, much like the 1/4-20 sample above, but here are the results.. As you can see there is no appreciable heat introduced into the panel, no heat mark, no distortion. A stress test performed using pliers showed the metal would pull inward and the stud still did not release..











Welder in action:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSq_ZX9V2y8


With our trial run complete and deemed a success, Allen is ordering some 14 gauge pins to fit his machine so we won't need to modify them. The size goes up about .01, from .06 to .074, but they seemed plenty malleable to bend over for trim retention. I'll add, these CD stud welders work on steel, stainless, or aluminum.



Needing to put a fork in our bumper bolt brackets, the inside slots needed cleanup work and the 12" disc sander seemed ideal for doing such. But some clearance was needed on the machine..



















All ready for welding..







Lastly, we visited the last known remaining milk truck from the Leonardtown Dairy. It had been sold to a local waterman, who used its refrigeration capability to store crabs and oysters. Needless to say, it wreaked havoc on what remained of the truck, the lower sides had been patched over with galvanized sheet metal long ago. It did give us enough details to capture what we need for lettering/sign painting the Divco, our next shop project.

But for the horrendous rust that would make a super little RV!

Poor old 32! Someone should save that thing. He might be the last one known to exist.

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It likely is the last one around, but looks to be far too gone. I think an entire reskin would be in order, as well as replacing much of the structural stuff. One of the guys that went with me to look at it is an avid milk bottle and associated things collector. I believe he is getting ready to purchase as yard art..

Not sure his wife knows yet.. Worst case, he is talking about cutting out the one or both sides to make a framed sign out of one of the last remaining solid pieces.

Time for a wagon update, all of our mounting holes in the bumpers are filled, and the three pieces assembled into one..















We picked up the wagon from upholstery, still needs door panels done so we need to finish stainless trim for them.. Boy that sunlight is like turning on a light switch!!











How our brackets will work....







video explanation of our next modification...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6yCAQ5rJPc



With brackets clamped in place the "weld locations" are found by starting with centerline of the bumper, adjusting to actual offset of the car, and locating the spacing needed.







Jared and I add some tweaks to fine tune ear placement and test our tig welds at the same time..







In the meantime, Mike is doing some cleanup of the door stainless, bumping up dings, filing, and taking to a Trizact 5000 finish. Then we'll get the studs welded on and final polish..

Please tell us about the machine that holds the punch.

More awesome work! The interior is really coming together and looks amazing. Those bumpers are going to be the icing on the cake though.

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