Thread: 55 Wagon Progress

Tweet

Ryan, It was ordered from Summit, 25' roll.


Well it wasn't supposed to rain in the mid-Atlantic states today until later tonight, but wouldn't you know, loading something in the back of the truck just seemed to coax the precipitation from the sky.



And here we are, unloaded back in the shop, still needing to make the stand. I'll pick up some materials likely on Monday..

Tonight Kyle did some more media blasting as I was installing the idler arm bushings. Finally the drag link is off the floor, Thurs night we should get the front tires back on so we again have a roller..



Then we worked on some stainless just to show Kyle another aspect of restoration. There were some minor scratches that the buffing wheels wouldn't begin to take out, so we opted for some 600 then 1200 w/d cross hatching, then moved to the 1500 then 3000 Trizact on the DA using the foam interface pad. With scratches gone, back to the buffing wheels...

Videos:



https://youtu.be/4VLocC_ZfJ0

https://youtu.be/vqcVXg-UXEQ

First off, yes, it's still bolted to the pallet.





And the more I thought about it I just couldn't bring myself to use fabricated legs. So today was spent driving a 5 hour round trip to pick up some suitable legs..





Here's the lower plate, and by my estimation I need about 4 inches of rise, so it will get some riser plates between the bottom plate and top plate..








More to come..... need to find a nice bright color that will have Peter in sunglasses for his next visit..

Finishing up on the English wheel, the legs are bolted on with 1/2" bolts with nuts welded inside the riser.











The wheel is held on with 3/4 bolts, with nuts welded inside the top plate of the riser.











The John Deere lift device....











The wheel is set up at 48-1/2"





























We wheeled a couple scrap panels, crushed some tucks, tipped a panel. Very pleased with the new wheeling machine.

A little disappointed in you for not cleaning and painting the base to match????? LOL...

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

A little disappointed in you for not cleaning and painting the base to match????? LOL...

From Post #795,

Originally Posted by MP&C

More to come..... need to find a nice bright color that will have Peter in sunglasses for his next visit..

Originally Posted by rspears

From Post #795,

Originally Posted by MP&C

Finishing up on the English wheel, the legs are bolted on with 1/2" bolts with nuts welded inside the riser.

Post #796 kinda makes it sound like it's done????
But I'm not critiquing, just saying,
WHERE'S THE PAINT..... (said like the old lady from the old wendy's commercials)

C'mon guys, that's better known as patina! We have some pieces to get made upon the wheel, and it will be a while before we prime again. So it will be left like shown for a bit until we can sneak it in the booth with some other stuff for epoxy priming..

Slacker!!!!!!!!! Lol..

Y'all keep it up you're gonna give him a complex: and those legs will get chromed with gold pin stripes.

Chrome? Now there's an idea....


Rec'd a care package in the mail the other day. I guess the sample of polyurethane was a hint for me to try this as well Thanks Rich!

I would love to have you try it, although I doubt there is much you haven't done with metal! That's just a little
thank you for all the great info that you post for every one.

That sample is the piece that was used to press design, I do one letter area at a time.

Thank's again, Rich

Well I'm back from UK, Kyle is still plugging away on stainless polishing and repairs..


Here's just a few of the implements used. And I must stress, this is not an 18 ga panel, with stainless trim we use light taps for everything.


Here's a piece of Delrin that was cut out and filed to match the bottom side of the door trim to act as a soft "anvil".











Then a spoon is used to bump.... LIGHTLY








Many ways of bringing up low spots, here are just a couple of the tools used...

This is a roller tool used for installing the "beading" to hold in screen material. The roller has been flattened from the original version, which had a hollow in the middle. A 3" roloc sander held just right will get the wheel spinning while sanding it flat..








In many cases you'll bump the highs down, roll the lows out, and check your progress using the fluorescent light tube reflections, and repeat. It is not likely this is a one and done process.



Another tool that can sneak in behind flanges.












Also used some dry sanding with the durablock, here using 500 then 1200 paper.








Then followed with the Trizact 1500, then 3000. Then it should be ready for the buffer..

Eeesh. Don't catch the edge or corner, or you're back to the bumping block.

My hat's off to ya, that is some tedious, time consuming detail work!

Thanks! Sorry for the hiatus, the day job had me travelling, two weeks in UK and two weeks in HI. Got back this past Sunday.

Tuesday afternoon we loaded up the wagon and dropped it off for media blasting.. should pick it up this weekend.





Tonight I worked on getting the Go Kart Slick hub fabricated for the wheeling machine..





I had stopped at a local machine shop and picked up a 3-1/2" diameter slug left over from their water jet. After some cleanup work on the South Bend, and a clearance hole for the 35mm upper shaft on the wheeling machine...





I had found this roller bearing (35mm ID) on ebay, as well as this thrust bearing...








Getting close...











Bearing installed....











With slick held in place, the alignment looks pretty good...








Motion picture version....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwVhZzGkBCE


Still need to drill and tap the three lug holes and install the outer thrust bearing.. and then we can get working on the re-skinning of the glove box door..