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MP&C 
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11-23-2019 06:29 PM #11
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- Jun 2008
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- Car Year, Make, Model: Walking
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The fender looks to have a bit of filler but also appears to be fairly solid (subject to verification). Take a look at this post by John Glenn from Anderson SC. (he was at my shop a couple weeks ago) This is a 39 Ford that had deer damage.
The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work
Much of the previous work is rearing its ugly head as a side effect to the damage. Here I would say to compare the fender you have to see how solid it is in these same damage prone areas.. Now focus on the first picture:
Notice the direct force of the damage is located approximately on the outer portion of the headlight ring. Outside of that, you see where the force pushing in stops at a pucker, or what I like to call a "lock". It's here that the book "The Key to Metal Bumping" refers to "first in, last out". In other words, the lock is the last damage and needs to be the first addressed, ie: the pucker is softened prior to bumping the damage outward. This is done by hammering the outward peak of the lock inward to lessen it's hold on the area.
Where the damage you show is metal bumping on steroids, if the problem areas on your fender is still solid, I would rather straighten it. At best, you can save it. At worst, it serves as a good lesson in metal bumping/dent repair.Last edited by MP&C; 11-23-2019 at 06:32 PM.
Robert
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Just in case......Happy Birthday Richard. .
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