Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Sorry about that Navy---just been looking at the frame specs at Wescottsauto.com and see that the 1940 stuff has quite a rise to the front frame rails that ain't there on te earlyer ones----it will need some adjustment for that differance -----------------

I also have a 9 inch ford rear end with a 2 3/4 tube thru the pinion support that then fits in the mains of a BBC for perfect set up og drive shaFT ANGLES----but it works best for race cars with a centerline mounted pinion as most of the street cars have some offset-------------

Off subject---is that Selma alabama?????????????????????? was down there in 60s for the march when I was in 7th Cav---------

Jerry: That would be Selma, Tx just at the north edge of San Antonio.

Well here's the latest completed work on the 40. Cross members and engine mounts. I'm not really happy with the last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&. I started making a drive shaft loop and was going to use it but in the name of strength I though 2 bars with bends were better. I'm hoping after the bed is on I'll forget what it looks like. I'm wondering if I should put some upright pieces in to complete a loop of sorts ?

Today is a rotten day, my 327 has a cracked block ! So now I'm going with a 283 which has bee bored out .030 over. Wanting to use the heads from the 327 because I have no other heads and it forces me to buy new pistons. The ones I have for the 283 are high compression and won't clear the heads. If things keep going south I might have to buy a 350 crate engine. Worked on the front end to set the ride height. I weighted all parts of the front and than started stacking steel on on top of the block till i had the same amt. Ended up cutting off 3/4 of a coil from the spring to obtain what I think is the the right ride height. Before the spring cut off, the upper control arms where hitting the springs even with the weight they were pushing down so hard, also it wouldn't allow me to adjust the camber/caster to get the front wheels straight up and down, they leaned out at the top bad. Your 2 cents is always welcome. Here's a picture.

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Just curious how much you cut off your springs. Do you have stock spindles or dropped ones?

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Yeah Randy, that '40 is probably just revolting a bit, not wanting to be wearing a bow tie in it's golden years!!

Navy, what do you mean by

....last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&.

The pumpkin is off center, but the engine & tranny will sit straight, aligned on the chassis centerline, and the drive shaft will angle from the tail shaft to the differential, sloped so that the down tilt of the tailshaft is equal and opposite from the up tilt of the differential yoke, right?

Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Just curious how much you cut off your springs. Do you have stock spindles or dropped ones?

3/4 of a coil, I was told the spindles are 2" drop, don't know for sure never measured, there the ones I'm going to use no matter what.

Originally Posted by rspears

Yeah Randy, that '40 is probably just revolting a bit, not wanting to be wearing a bow tie in it's golden years!!

Navy, what do you mean by
The pumpkin is off center, but the engine & tranny will sit straight, aligned on the chassis centerline, and the drive shaft will angle from the tail shaft to the differential, sloped so that the down tilt of the tailshaft is equal and opposite from the up tilt of the differential yoke, right?

Looks like $#&^ because the bends are not center to the frame, they are aligned with the drive shaft. Engine and tranny are aligned to the chassis centerline.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size

Pistons won't clear the heads /valves because their an after market high compression type, big dome.
Today I basically did what your saying a little backwards. I did remove the springs and use pipe to set the ride height to the same as I had it after the springs were cut.
Block is a 1962, small journal.

The pistons should clear the heads unless the heads have been maybe angle milled---------or, possibly(seen it several times) they are installed backwards??????????

You can use your 327 stuff in a 350 block but you'll need to get a set of spacer main bearings------

Hey Navy, I really like how you did your new X Member of your frame. I think I just figured out how I want to do my 40's. Thanks.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

The pistons should clear the heads unless the heads have been maybe angle milled---------or, possibly(seen it several times) they are installed backwards??????????

You can use your 327 stuff in a 350 block but you'll need to get a set of spacer main bearings------

I haven't seen why they won't work with my own eyes, going by what my engine builder told me. This motor as with the 327 came in a box completely apart. Heads have been milled/cut at least once. I'll have to look into it further and see what and the why's of it. I think its valve clearance issue vice the actual head itself. I wish I had the confidence to build it my self but its been 30 yrs since my last engine build.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Hey Navy, I really like how you did your new X Member of your frame. I think I just figured out how I want to do my 40's. Thanks.

I started by looking at pictures of frames on the internet. Then bought some tube .100" wall and started bending. Thats the short of it. Of course it wasn't exactly the easy. Getting the end product to come out the same length and radius took some work and a little cut and splice. The splices were to get match length and done with sleeves inside with holes drilled in outer tube than welded and of course welded around the seam. The depth of the tubes inboard of the frame rails was determined by the power booster for the brakes that is mounted between the rail and the tube frame work. The rest all came from the pictures that I saw on the net. I did make a wood template from plywood to use to help get the radius and lengths right. Length can be gotten right the first time if your not in a rush and think it through. I can give you more info on the lay-out pre-bending if you like.

Looks like you'll be ok---putting those power brake boosters down there sure eats up room for left side exhaust

Altho it might not work on yours with the leaf springs----but a car with coil overs on the rear can use a setup for a late 90s up to 2004 Mustang for mufflers and tail pipes--takes a little shortening where the tip is but they line up under the frame rail beside the fuel tank(33-34 type fords)

Project seems to be coming along nicely

Jerry: Your right about that left side exhaust it's going to take some plumbing.
Today I made a bracket to hold the yoke the supports the front fenders. Its 1/4 thick 7" wide and tapers down to 5" at the radius, 8" hanging forward of the cross member. To my surprise it has flex in it and I may need to put gussets under it. Trying to get all things welded to the frame before I sandblast and paint it, I hate burning good paint. Today's pic's, input welcome.