Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Looks really nice! I might use square tubing when I do mine. I won't have all the clearance you have due to how far my engine sets back, and how wide my trans is. I'd like to sneal power brakes in there, but like Jerry said, the exhaust will be tight through there. We shall see when I get back on it.

Just some pic's as I assemble and disassemble to make sure things are fitting. Next I'm going to hang all the front sheet metal and check the tire clearance and fender fit to the cab etc. Reason is that I want to be sure that the cab blocks are the right height

Nice to see the progress. It's looking good.

Looking good. I'd like to get back on mine soon.

Just for anybody's info this is where I got my frame work idea's from. Couldn't afford the factory made ones and its more fun to make your own { IMHO }.

Frame Chassis Tube Crossmembers Chevy Ford Plymouth willys | Progressive Automotive

Thanks for the link, and by the way, I really like your shop space!

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Thanks for the link, and by the way, I really like your shop space!

Shop space is great I just wish it wasn't 35 miles away from my house. I insulated it past winter and what a difference it makes, got rid of the big tin can effect.

I know that feeling. I used to rent a shop 30 miles away from my house, but it was on my way to work. It was a concrete building with a flat roof. Talk about worst for all seasons. Haha

sweet local ride of about the same vintage i think ...

Hoss429 thanks for posting the pic, its the same year and every picture I see helps me build mine. Its nice to see how others have put things together. Thanks

I hung the sheet metal and wasn't very happy with the end result. Drivers side looked good but the pass side well lets just say I was ready to ratrod the truck. In the end I decided that the problem was that being the truck was in a house fire and the front pass side fender was burned real good that it got shrunk when the firemen turned the hose on the hot metal. Sounds kinda out there. The part that can't line up is between the cab to fender mount and the running board to fender mount. Its pulled away by 5/16ths of and inch in between these 2 points, instead of a straight line it has a bow. I did push ,pull and shove it trying to make it fit better but no way. Should have taken a pic to share. Stopped to see how my 283 block checked out at the engine shop and now its going to be a 283 + .060" , but at least its not cracked.

Ok New day new attitude, new repair. I turned my 42 cab back to a 40 cab today or almost. I filled in the gas tank filler hole in the cab. Cut patch, welded and then tried my hand a leading it rather than bondo, I hate bondo. Anybody ever lead ? Had troubles having it run off , I may have to turn the cab to get more to stay put while it cools. Any pointers here are welcome.

For what it's worth: I remember years ago watching an 'old school' panel beater do lead work.
He had his torch in his right hand, and the lead and a wet rag tied around the end of a dowel in his left.
The lead between thumb and fore-finger and the dowel between his little finger and ring finger, and tucked into his palm.
He'd melt the lead, then quickly dab it with the dowel/rag which stopped it running.
It looked easy when he did it!

You might consider using a heat gun instead of a torch for more control of the melt point - How do I load lead? | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

Its been so hot here in TX. {98-101 in the shop} work on the 40 has been slow. But I did finally get my fire wall cut out and plan to do the bends tomorrow. Also finished boxing the front rails, still need to grind the welds.