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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #241
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    Very nice work! Did you make the lower collar for the firewall too?
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #242
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Very nice work! Did you make the lower collar for the firewall too?
    Yes I made it twice ! First time I had the the shaft out of alignment which showed up after I mounted the upper bracket to the dash. Had to move it to the left which required a complete new piece. OK I GIVE UP, the picture keeps coming out ROTATED no matter what I do and how I save them etc. *%$@&$^@)^)$$&


    Last edited by Navy7797; 01-22-2014 at 06:40 PM.

  3. #243
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Todays project was the exhaust system and Brake Pedal. I bought a X pipe kit from Summit and I'm very glad I did. Just the initial mock up with the pipes shows how easy its going to be to complete.( I was obviously dreaming) The Brake Pedal is the other half of my Machine gun handle left over from the gas pedal build.


    Last edited by Navy7797; 01-28-2014 at 04:58 PM. Reason: updated thoughts

  4. #244
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Very nice work! It looks like your new to you x member is working quite well. I hope mine turns out just as nice.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  5. #245
    randyr's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    Looking good. Do you plan to run the exhaust thru the x-member and under it, as shown in the pics?
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  6. #246
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Looking good. Do you plan to run the exhaust thru the x-member and under it, as shown in the pics?
    I'm going to stay under it, other wise I'll be cutting and welding shapes into the pipe. I've got 7 - 8 inches of ground clearance and that's enough for the streets. If I had a bender I'd would, and make it a one piece or as much as possible.

  7. #247
    rspears's Avatar
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    What if you pulled the mufflers off of the X, could you slide the X forward and kick up the back end to pass through the lateral members that form the driveshaft loop and then slide it back in position and put the mufflers back on the ends? Seems like that would get everything tucked up closer to the floor, and give you more clearance, too.
    randyr likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  8. #248
    randyr's Avatar
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    Gotta say I agree with Roger. When you finish the truck you'll probably wish you had and there will never be a time when it's easier than now while you have the body off the frame.....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  9. #249
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    FWIW... Getting the "X" under (or just ahead of) the front u-joint will aid in amount of travel without interference.. something to think about.

  10. #250
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the input guys I appreciate your time . I spent some time today looking and moving pipes around and it just didn't work for me.
    The pictures are deceiving somewhat, there really isn't enough room to bring the pipes up through the frame work without bending every pipe one way or another. If one end goes up that means the other is facing downward more, and it would need bending to align again. Moving the X pipe forward will result in having the pipes lower than they are now, pipe bottom is even with the tranny's pan bottom. All pipes are higher than the front cross member. The pipes coming from the X are on an upward angle that puts the mufflers inside the the frame work. Yes it could be done better with a custom bent system from the muffler shop but I'm already WAY over budget and have to work with what I have. Not that I want to.
    So here's the next Question about the exhaust.
    Tail Pipe's running under the gas tank ? Any real concerns ? I'm thinking as long as I stay 3-4 inches off them all would be fine. Note gas line fitting on passenger side. What say you ?

    Last edited by Navy7797; 01-25-2014 at 07:35 PM.

  11. #251
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    That X crossover would work better a little further forward if you can get it in.
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  12. #252
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    Lotsa guys run the pipes under the axle ( I did ) and under the tank, ( I didn't ) it works but just watch the spacing.

    If it were mine, I'd try to use a pickup point at the sending unit and plug the side fitting and I'd use a plug with the hex inside so it would be flush.

  13. #253
    rspears's Avatar
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    Navy, I still think you need to take another look at the X-pipe running up through the center frame X-member. You don't have to have a bender to affect the changes you need. You can either get a couple of mandrel bends and cut pieces to insert to give you the ups & downs you need; or you could cut out little wedges (partial cuts, not all the way through, leaving a "hinge" at the top) with an angle grinder & thin cutoff wheel, bend them to fit and weld up the cuts. Both ways can be done for very little money, with the wedges being cheaper but the mandrel bends maybe looking a bit better. That pretty X from Summit doesn't have to remain totally unmolested to function, IMO. I'd do some trimming, shift it forward a bit like Steve says, and put the bends you need in place with some selective cuts. You can use mandrel bends to create the over the axle bends, too. Just my $0.02.
    Last edited by rspears; 01-26-2014 at 11:37 AM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  14. #254
    TerpnGator's Avatar
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    Just read this entire thread. Really nice build. Love it!

  15. #255
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    This is getting too stressful, right now I wish I never heard of a #am X-pipe.

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