Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Hay my name is Gary I just bought a 1941 ford truck can I set my truck on a late model corvette frame and sub frame with little modifications.

Originally Posted by gary.sallee@aol

Hay my name is Gary I just bought a 1941 ford truck can I set my truck on a late model corvette frame and sub frame with little modifications.

Welcome to the forum, Gary. You really should start your own thread instead of jumping into Navy's build thread with your questions. Just click the "Forum" tab at the top left, then the forum name you want to post in, and finally the box "New Thread" and follow the process. No one's too picky about which forum you choose.

I'm not a fan of frame swaps in general, unless they are done to facilitate registration in the face of tangled government regulations, like our friends in NZ face. Adapting a body to a late model frame is a lot more work than people think it is, and getting an old body to "sit right" and "look right" is generally pretty difficult, and even then when you look underneath it's an obvious swap vs frame to fit. Like Jerry says, you'd be much, much better off sourcing a replacement OEM style frame and using your 'vette components on that base then trying to graft the two together, IMO.

Once you get a thread started you can send the Moderator, "mrmustang" screen name, a PM and ask him if he's willing to move these three posts to that new thread.

Originally Posted by gary.sallee@aol

with little modifications.

Ummm, no....

.

I've been posting all week, pic's and story and nothing is showing up on the forum, anybody else having troubles ?

You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

You might want to look into Chassis Engineering's crossmember replacement pieces that restore strength to the removed parts. You have the holes where the original stamped steel side went, so find some replacements for them(which CE might have listed) and bolt everything back in to get your geometry back to stock parameters. I'd also leave the stock rear crossmember in the frame and use CE's parallel spring kit, which is a bolt in, and in my '40 PU I put a Ford 9 inch into the springs, and just ground the lip of the crossmember to be sure it cleared the 9 inch. Keeps everything strong back there, as the rear frame end crossmember is not strong enough alone. boxing the frame is a good move, for the strength to keep from fame flexing (which Ford made the frame so it would flex) and cutting and welding it ruins that, so better to make it so it no longer tries to flex, and prevent cracks in it where it no longer can. Also check-out CE'sblot-in front crossmember for rack & pinion steering (Mustang II). It works really well, and has adjustable upper spring pockets to front height. Their stuff works really well when you follow their fabrication instructions.

Pop a photo of the stretch when you can. Wish I would have done that. Then I could of had a pickup and sedan too.

He only added a few inches... though an "extra cab" concept might be interesting. Or a longer version you could even add a quarter window similar to the coupes.

It may be a few weeks, but I'll post it.

Here's some pic's from the last 2 days of tinkering with the 40.

Still have to plate the insides.

Finished repairs just have to plate the inside and this side is done.

My intentions are to remove the cross member pictured and box the frame all the way to the end. I will be using a 2 leaf spring set up vice the single across the back. I'll still need a crossmember so after boxing the frame I'll either fit the original member to the boxed frame or build a new one from scratch. Gotta put shocks somewhere.

Didn't feel like welding much today so I started making the wood blocks that support the cab. Took some big oak pallets and cut them up and after you run them through a plainer there as good as any oak at the store.
The reason I'm messing with the blocks/shims is that I want to weld nuts inside the frame to bolt the cab down, gotta do it before I box the frame.

Yes, having trouble finding time to get my projects done.

But other than that, to answer your first question, the only thing I see you doing wrong, is starting with a Ford.

Kidding of course, have fun.

A few of us have been complaining of a slow acting site. I've lost a post or two as well.
The "powers that be", are aware of it but not sure what can be done so we're trying to be calm and patient as they all have day jobs just like us!

Try posting a pic (or two) and see if it / they get through...

I've had issues some days too. But I just wait a bit and clear my cookies, come back and I can get it to work ok. Navy, what are your plans for the X member?

There have been some major internet upsets the past 2-3 weeks - I've lost a post or two here and a couple other non-automotive sites I frequent. Then for whatever reason, this site runs slow occasionally though for some reason I usually don't have the same level of problems many of the others report.

Navy - that is a daunting project you have taken on - but sometimes those are the most fun, especially when done and you have a photographic record to go back to and relive the 'pain'

Originally Posted by IC2

There have been some major internet upsets the past 2-3 weeks - I've lost a post or two here and a couple other non-automotive sites I frequent. Then for whatever reason, this site runs slow occasionally though for some reason I usually don't have the same level of problems many of the others report.

Navy - that is a daunting project you have taken on - but sometimes those are the most fun, especially when done and you have a photographic record to go back to and relive the 'pain'

Pain is right got the thumb the other day with a hammer !
Here's what has been popping up every time I try to post:
Thank you for posting! Your post will not be visible until a moderator has approved it for posting.

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Here's what has been popping up every time I try to post: Thank you for posting! Your post will not be visible until a moderator has approved it for posting.

That happens sometimes with new folks 'round here. It's because of spammers and it's to prevent or limit it.. Once you clear a certain number of posts, you'll be all set. Sometimes the mods see your genuine and lift that restriction right away.