Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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30-40, Mike P and Jerry thanks for your reply's. PCV valve it will be.

Jerry: The reason I have the coolant hoses in the manifold is that the whole manifold set up was a gift from a close friend. Its supposed to aid in cooling the engine more evenly. If had to buy a manifold it'd be just a plain jane but I like gifts !

Getting ready to fire my new engine. Have a few things to work out.

Plug wire troubles. Any body have a suggestion as to plug wires I need. I have a set of chevy BB wires and there to short to use with the wire looms I want to use as pictured below. Some body make extra long for this type set up ? Make my own ?

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Plug wire troubles. Any body have a suggestion as to plug wires I need. I have a set of chevy BB wires and there to short to use with the wire looms I want to use as pictured below. Some body make extra long for this type set up ? Make my own ?

I used Taylor's that had the plug boot fixed, distributor end cut-to-length. Mine were plenty long, and my routing was very similar to yours but dropped down below the headers with the group, and of course they went toward the correct end of the motor instead of being buried in the back....

That's a pretty loom set up.

I'd lean towards making your own so they'll be perfect

Times 3... get a "universal" style et and do the cap end yourself, then you can make the length to what you need.

Just ordered a set of Taylor's, thanks for the input !

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
A_Taylor Tool.jpg

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Dang thats a nifty tool.. I picked up a set of pliers made for the task ( also from Taylors ) but are a PITA! They are clumbsy and hard to use and rarely give a clean decent looking crimp!

Originally Posted by 34_40

Dang thats a nifty tool.. I picked up a set of pliers made for the task ( also from Taylors ) but are a PITA! They are clumbsy and hard to use and rarely give a clean decent looking crimp!

Mike, I bought a separately packaged tool at the recommendation of the old counter guy at the performance shop, saying that I would be glad I had it after doing one wire, and then found that there was one packed in the box of the Taylor Universal wire set that I had purchased. The packaged one got hung on a nail to go back but never made the trip

The two pieces form a solid block about 1.5" square with ears on top to catch on the jaws of the vise. A nifty cutting guide is provided where you set the wire in place at your marked finished length and cut off the excess, leaving the right length "extra". Set the wire in place, then put a razor blade/knife at the "step" and rotate the wire, taking away the right length of insulation to leave a perfect, fully intact center conductor. Put the boot over the end, put the terminal in place, put the two halves of the block together and a turn or two on the vise handle makes a perfect crimp every time. Soooo much easier than anything I ever used before!!

Originally Posted by rspears

That set should come with a nifty plastic tool that's both an insulation cutting tool, to get the right amount of electrode exposed; and a crimping tool, to get the ends on just right.
Attachment 60563

If one doesn't come in the package you should pick one up because they make the job of installing ends an easy, repetitive task with good results. I think I've got two or three of them out in the shop if you don't get one and want to wait for snail mail.

Roger: Thanks thats most gracious of you to offer, I hope one will come with the wires. Thanks for the inputs.

Today was battery box day. I fabed the box from 16 gauge sheet, angle iron and restrains that came with the battery. Still a little more to do but this is the bulk of it. Inputs welcome .

Will you have a removable panel in the floor for access? If so, does it interfere with the seat location? Since it's a dry cell battery you could mount it on it's side for easier access to the terminals if there's no hole in the floor. Sorta like the pic in post #299.

Originally Posted by randyr

Will you have a removable panel in the floor for access? If so, does it interfere with the seat location? Since it's a dry cell battery you could mount it on it's side for easier access to the terminals if there's no hole in the floor. Sorta like the pic in post #299.

Battery slides in from the back, connections are on the side towards the tranny. I don't worry about access other than installing and removal. If I need a jump I'll go straight to the on-off switch that will be on the fire wall or someplace that has easy access.

Today I fired up my new engine. sbc 283 +.060. I set the timing a 10* as per the engine builders instructions prior to starting. It took a couple crankings to keep it running. Got it running steady @ 2000 rpm for the 1st 17 minutes and than ran out of gas. Got more gas and than started adjusting the carb using a vacuum gauge. Then I played with the timing using a t-light and ended up at 12* @ 900-1000 rpm with smooth running engine, vacuum advance disconnected. First video is the initial start up, 2nd is after I adjusted carb and timing.



inputs welcome