Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

Tweet

Originally Posted by 34_40

That happens sometimes with new folks 'round here. It's because of spammers and it's to prevent or limit it.. Once you clear a certain number of posts, you'll be all set. Sometimes the mods see your genuine and lift that restriction right away.

34 40 Thanks for the reply, I kinda figured it might be something like that. Can you or anybody else out there tell me for sure what year the cab on my truck is ? I know it's not a 40 because of the gas tank filler hole in the cab. With the hole does it make it a 42-47 model cab ? Want to order sheet metal for the floor and don't want to get it wrong. Thanks.

X member plans will be to build a member that looks like this.

It amazes me how many rodders in the USA fit parallel ladder bars, They just don't work !!! They just turn the rear axle into a big anti roll bar.

Nice truck though.

.

Try this link = 1947 ford pickup - Bing Images

I "binged" 1947 ford, that's what it looks like to me, but your first picture doesn't really show the hood / grille so I'm guessing.

Originally Posted by 34_40

Try this link = 1947 ford pickup - Bing Images

I "binged" 1947 ford, that's what it looks like to me, but your first picture doesn't really show the hood / grille so I'm guessing.

Here's another picture. I know the frame, bed and nose are correct for the year but the cab ? I could be a 47.

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Here's another picture. I know the frame, bed and nose are correct for the year but the cab ? I could be a 47.

more pic's If I'm wrong Please tell me so, Thanks
1940==
1940==

Picture of bottom of cab.

Hey Navy, welcome to CHR!!
I look at a bunch of '40pics https://www.google.com/search?q=1940...w=1517&bih=714



and a bunch of '47 pics 1947 ford pickup - Bing Images

and I really can't tell the difference except for the gas filler location.

I'm not sure if you're intending to go stock with the floor or not but after-market sheet metal companies like Direct Sheet Metal list the same floor boards for '40-'47 Vintage Ford Sheet Metal!

Looks like a great project!!

Hello to all; I owned a 41 pick-up way back in the last century. I was 16 and my best friend told me a guy we knew had a truck for sale and could get it cheap. We went and saw him and he said he wanted $100.00, so we loaded in my car to go see it. Welll it was really bad, but I got him down to $30.00, no motor 4 flat tires no interior ,front of trans hanging from a rope. But I fell in love with it. Enough of this, the 40-47 cabs are the same . Of course the front fenders and hood were changed, and some changes to the 239 flathead. many of the parts I got for mine came from a 46-47. Also some car parts will fit, such as grills. Ford also made a 1/4t truck that was a station wagon with a truck body , meet a guy who had one , he got it from original owner, nice ride. So as long as title nums match it doesn't matter. Have fun with it. I wish I had mine back, mhutch4848

From what I remember when I had my 40 pick up, was trhat all cabs 40-47 were dang near the same and interchanged. I'm not 100% on that though. My 40 had the gas filler like yours too.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not sure what year it is, but from your posts I'm thinking it won't really matter when it comes to the floor sheet metal.

Been away for Easter for a few days, but it doesn't look like you've gotten a complete answer on the cab thing. The fuel fill in the LR fender is correct for the '40/1 pickup. On the larger trucks (which used essentially the same cab) the tank was mounted under the seat rather than at the back end of the frame, so had the fill on the passenger side of the cab where that hole in yours is. Also the pickups from '42-7 had the tank under the seat as well, so your cab likely came from one of those models. As noted, there's not much difference as far as the cab perimeter, so any of the floors should work for your app.

Looks like you added a question about the rear cross member in one of your edits. If you're going with the pair of parallel springs under the frame rails then the only purposes served by the original cross member is shock mounting and frame integrity (and maybe exhaust hanger). It could easily be replaced by a box tube structure with heavy enough wall thickness to take the shock absorber load. There's nothing wrong with the stock piece as long as it's not rotted badly, but it would clean up the underside at least visually if a straight member were there.

Thanks for the input Bob.
I have another question for you and anybody else that wants to input.
The Leaf springs I have are from a Ford Explore Sport and to me their just to big. I would have to have the front perch at the forward most part of the hump in the rail in others down where it gets flat. The shackles for the rear of the spring would have to be at the Very rear of the frame rail to keep the axle centered and then I'd need to use blocks to get the rear back down to earth. Does anybody know of a year , make and model car/truck that would have a better spring to use ? I know there's kits to buy but that's not in the cards for me. I can fab perch's but not spring's. Somebody must have used something that worked out just right. Thanks again.

Navy, as long as that chassis is getting cleaned up, why not consider coil over spring and shock combos along with either a triangulated or 4 bar system and a panhard bar?

As far as spring information, take a look here: Eaton Detroit Spring Home

I like Daves suggestion about EDS as you'll be able to tailor the spring to your app for rate and ride height.

I don't remember the specific year/model, but somewhere in history I remember reading that Chassis Engineering got the springs for their kit originally from a Dodge van, just don't recall if it was full size or mini van. They then based their production units on that spring. While I've used the CE setup a few times, I've always had to use lowering blocks to get the back end at the right height. And always had to change them after awhile as the springs settled. Also had to play with the number of leaves used to "adjust" the rate. So, with all that, and the age factor, a new EDS spring pair might actually end up being a decent deal.