Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by rspears

You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one.
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.

So I e-mailed a ChemE friend and he says my idea sucks He says that he's not a fan of "tinning" due to the potential for long term corrosion, so I explained that normally one tins, then washes with a baking soda neutralizing rinse before going on with the leading which doesn't work here due to the rolled joint.
Maybe you could have someone TIG the joint for you, then lead it? If that's not an option then maybe a skim coat of good quality body filler is in your future?

I have been watching this and wondering if some epoxy glue/filler would fix this for Navy? This stuff has came a long ways over the years and you can do some amazing stuff with it. There's several different kinds out there. You'd want metal to metal and after you apply it and it cures, you can sand it like a filler and then proceed with either tiger hair or filler over it. I've seen some cool stuff done with it.

Epoxy glue would work but surfaces have to be clean

I don't understand the need for epoxy glue? Navy's wanting to lead the joint, but cannot tin it without flux getting into the rolled joint. If he's just going to use filler after the epoxy, why do you need epoxy? Just use filler on the joint as it is.

I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I'm assuming he's wanting to use lead as a more durable filler because bondo can crack in a stress joint. Since he's having issues getting the lead to stick, this is a great alternative. So I mentioned the epoxy because it is a lot stronger and will act like the lead but it just isn't an alloy or metal.

But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.

Sorry for posting. It is just an idea.......

Originally Posted by rspears

But you're promoting a skim coat of body filler (I hesitate to use the trade name "bondo") after working down the epoxy filler, not trying to bridge lead over an epoxy seal joint, correct? I'll wait for more input from Navy before I post anything further here.

And yes, a skim coat of epoxy filler is applied over the glue because you don't always get perfect surfaces when applying the glue. Also no, not trying to use the glue as a bridge over lead. Since the lead won't stick, id just use the glue. I just mentioned it because it is an option if he can not get the lead to work.

Guys Thanks for ALL the inputs but Holy cow lets not argue over my seam.
Henry Ford put these roofs together with spot welds and then rolled the lip on to the top part of the roof from the cab section and that was what made it water tight, as far as Ford was concerned or as I can see from taking this one a part. My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam. I do have a 2 part self leveling seam sealer that is used for auto body repair sitting on my work bench.
Seam Sealer by 3M - Sealers by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

The lead work the big car company's did was mostly to join quarter panels and such together and they didn't have any rolled lips to in-trap any acid flux ect. I've taken quarters off a camaro, the quarter and roof panels were laid one over the other and spot welded , and leaded over. There were no lips so everything could be cleaned off inside and out .

I think the biggest thing is just to keep water from seeping in to the seam and causing rust.
Maybe I should just RATROD this thing and go smoke some tires !

You can make it pretty cool as a rat rod too, but I'd keep at it as you've over came a lot already.

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Guys Thanks for ALL the inputs but Holy cow lets not argue over my seam.

My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam. I do have a 2 part self leveling seam sealer that is used for auto body repair sitting on my work bench.
Seam Sealer by 3M - Sealers by Zoro Tools Industrial Supplies

I think the biggest thing is just to keep water from seeping in to the seam and causing rust.
Maybe I should just RATROD this thing and go smoke some tires !

No-ones arguing.. just expressing opinions.. and you know we all have them and how they smell right?!?!

Add a few tacks, stiches of weld and use the seam sealer! "SEEMS" like it should work well!

My other opinion is.... Do NOT rat the truck!!!

Of course it is yours.. and you can do as you see fit! But to rat it out....

OHHhhhh the horror!!!

Originally Posted by 34_40

No-ones arguing.. just expressing opinions.. and you know we all have them and how they smell right?!?!

Add a few tacks, stiches of weld and use the seam sealer! "SEEMS" like it should work well!

My other opinion is.... Do NOT rat the truck!!!

Of course it is yours.. and you can do as you see fit! But to rat it out....

OHHhhhh the horror!!!

The Horror, the Horror, yes it would be a GREAT HORROR to rat it out. Its like a Mouse giving an Eagle the finger just before it sinks it's talon's into him,, it would be the last act !

Originally Posted by Navy7797

My whole reason to lead it in was to produce a weather tight seal along with a nice looking fillet at that seam.

Could you use a non corrosive rosin type solder flux to seal and tin the area, then apply the lead over the tinned areas?

Not real tough to weld a seam closed, just have to be very patient when doing it so as not to warp the panels....

Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems.