Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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OK, to re-open the idea another ChemE buddy came back to me this morning and he agreed that if you use a tinning flux that gets into the rolled joint, then tin the seam and lead over it the base metal should corrode only slightly because once the loosely bonded oxygen is used up in the flux there's no more free oxygen to feed corrosion. I think that you'll be fine tinning your joint, then leading it closed which will encase any remaining acids. In fact, I think that the heat from leading the joint will quickly cook out the joint, eliminating future corrosion from consideration. Just my $0.02.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems.

I just bought one but my talent does match up to the task yet.

Here's a little bit more work done. I had welded in a new cab corner and of course things are not perfect so I leaded in to fill some of the low spot. I don't want to bondo thicker than 1/16 if I can help it.


With roof seam still in question I welded up a mockup seam of the same shape/size and applied the seam sealer to see what it would look like, this is a sanded finish.

From the picture it appears the seam sealer will work nicely..

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Tig welder would work great for this seam it seems.

TIG does work nice, but a MIG will do just fine for filling a seam. Once it's welded (properly)there is no chance of the seam opening up and showing a line in the paint---yes, they will do that when filled, even with lead!!!! Some good prep time cleaning the seam out, and patience in welding IMO will yield the best results....

Took a a week working on the F1 Ford's roof seam with the mig, worst part was grinding my sloppy welds, but it is rock solid two or three years later now!

Its been awhile since my last post and that's because I haven't got much done, just welding and grinding on the cab. I had to add some lips to the toe board section trans cover so I have enough to bolt through. I also cut out my instrument panel for my gauges and speedo.
The roof seam is still not 100% decided on what course of action I'll take. Here's pic's .

Hi Navy, this is one of those periods in a build where it sometimes feels like nothing is moving forward... it's just the hours that get consumed and nothing can be substituted for that labor.. It's still looking good, who's floor panels??? And is that a 40 ford instrument cluster?

Originally Posted by 34_40

Hi Navy, this is one of those periods in a build where it sometimes feels like nothing is moving forward... it's just the hours that get consumed and nothing can be substituted for that labor.. It's still looking good, who's floor panels??? And is that a 40 ford instrument cluster?

The floor panels are Bob Drakes, good thickness to them with well defined bends, toe boards are from .060 flat sheet. The instrument panel is an original that I milled the center out to get max clearance for gauge viewing. A .100 aluminum sheet was than cut to fit. There's going to be more to it than that when its done, pictures will explain it better than I can attempt to describe the finished panel .

Got a little painting done on the truck, well really the the tranny. Used SPI Black epoxy primer and that will be all for the tranny.

Bought 2 new/used doors for the truck this weekend and they make no difference in the fit to cab clearance issues . So as far as the doors go I'll just be modifying the door edges a bit.

Nice trans. Sorry to hear the doors don't help ya. At least they shouldn't be hard to sell.

Just a few pic's of some door repair experimentation.

Looks real good!

Are you going to be able to flatten out your metal to match the door thickness? Maybe just cut 2 the right shape and weld them on?

That looks better already Navy!